nbjtours

Beine-Nauroy nr Reims , France

Day Twenty- Three 113 miles 4216 ft

Apart from a couple of very brief showers, today was dry so the shower proofs were not required for long. However, after crossing the border into France the strong headwind became a real issue and took at least two miles a hour off my average speed, as well as making riding that much harder, especially over some featureless agricultural land with no shelter in the form of hedges or trees. We find ourselves therefore parked up a track hidden between some trees, about 25 miles away from the intended campsite. 

Today has been probably  the hardest cycling day of the tour because of the wind  and the reason we did not make our destination for the day. 

The day started well, as we were camped next to a tow path cycle route,that took me through some of the industrial parts of Charleroi, not especially attractive, but interesting nonetheless. 

  
At one point,I had to dismount for about 20 metres as a huge pile of gravel had spilled over into the towpath, just as I came up to overtake a fully laden cyclo-tourist. This gent from Avignon had cycled to the top of Denmark and was making his way back to Lille to catch the TGV.   He thought I was mad to contemplate this trip On the skinny tyres I have.  

Talking TGV, I caught up with a group of older mountain bikers split into two groups of three. Briefly chatting with one of the guys at the back, I then moved past, but the others had not heard so the first guy yelled ” attention Arthur un TGV arrive!” In order to let me pass. 

The tow path took me along to the town of Thuiles, where I was able to join the Belgian RaVel ( rail velo route) which runs for 30 miles or so.   

Just like in the UK, but here with old electric trains and not steam, the enthusiasts in full gear,  play with the their full sized electric train sets!

The run along this track was great, as I did not have to think about the route, and aside from a few walkers near to the occasional town it was traffic free. The only thing that slowed you down was the frequent road crossings and negotiation of the zigzag barriers at each one. This track took me almost to the agreed coffee stop at Chimay, with only a. little bit of road for the final couple of miles, where after a long 46 mile first segment, we had our pit stop in the pits, on the occasionally used road circuit

  
Once upon a time this was a legendary fast road circuit like Spa but after a fatality a much shorter 2 mile circuit is used only a couple of times a year, although it looks much better than when I last passed through on a cycling tour three years ago. 

Just round the corner from this, a classic car rally was having a break at a local restaurant and a chap in his car insisted I took this photo of an old timer, with a sticker on the back saying “en rodage” meaning running in. 

  
From Chimay to the French border is not far and just like with Holland, Belgium has no goodbye or hello, France at least had a sign with the speed limits on. 

It was just past here I saw two blurry figures in the road, at a distance, only for it to be Monica and Nigel,  who had stopped next to a fort from the infamously ineffective Maginot Line    

 I know that I am biased but once we entered the French speaking part of Belgium and in France itself, people are generally polite and say hello. In other countries visited so far I always initiated a greeting whereas here nearly everyone says Bonjour or nods – so much more friendly. 

Coming away from the borders, the countryside opened up to wide open rolling fields interspersed with river valleys and little villages in which no one seems to live. This would have been fine except for a constant strong headwind of 20mph+ which made going downhills a pedal let alone uphill, as there was just no cover or shelter from it. This resistance monument with its flag at full mast shows the strength of the wind. 

  
At tea stop, we decided that with the campsite still 35 miles away and less than  2 hours of light left, it would be foolish to carry on, so an additional 10 miles in the windy dry before packing up and a wild camp was in order. 

This would leave 25 miles to do tomorrow, in rest day morning, to get back on schedule. Rain is forecast but hopefully not until midday. 

The evening was topped off by bangers, mash and beans, washed down with a couple of cans of Pils. Not as good as Mum’s Sunday roast but good comfort food to finish off the day. 

  
The other (prettier) Balham. 

Up to 8th in the world out of over 150,000 people on Strava for miles covered this month following today. Will slip back tomorrow.