Cabo de San Vicente

88 miles  6013 ft climbed

603 miles total cycled

The objective achieved this afternoon just before 4 o’clock was not without its trial and tribulations but thankfully not as tough as the last tour.

Having decided to take the scenic routes through the final stages of the Serra de Monchique we were due a right turn but were confronted by the sight of the camper coming back down the road toward us.

Nigel was succinct, you can’t go down there lads, it’s just gravel, there is no real road, he offered us a ride in the camper but we had had already too much of that on this trip. Looking at the maps there was not an alternative but Garmin suggested there was.  So two really tough hills later and an extra couple of miles and we were back on track.

During the trip we have heard Cuckoos every day and Nick has grown to despise their evil intent so much so that he has denied their existence. Our lunch stop today was graced by the unexciting chorus of the Cuckoo.  Even Monica suggested that it said something impolite!

To crack on today we left our forest track campsite at 7.06 only six minutes late from scheduled, to a misty but clear day 

The benefits of leaving early were cooler temperatures and terrific views over the hills as the mist settled into the valleys. The temperature difference was quite marked between top and bottom. 

Having had an early stop by 9, before our big 1000ft climb of the day helped, and of any climb we have done it was the most pleasant with the gradient only getting to 7% at worst  

The top of the climb did give us our first glimpse of the sea but with only 55 miles covered there was still plenty of cycling to go. 

The day got very warm and with the mercury reaching over 30 C water and sun cream were essential friends. On Some of the steep climbs it felt like you would burst.

Following passing through Monchique Nigel had stopped for our full breakfast stop of frankfurters and scrambled eggs when we were joined by a Cornishman for coffee whose  mates then joined us briefly before setting off. Incredibly one of them owns property in the same small town in Brazil as Nigel

Whilst on occasion we found our legs tired,  the final 5 mile blast was along the main road to Sagres which we were able to peloton in style at 20 mph. 

The tour is over successfully, legs are aching and plans for the next adventure in 2019 are already underway. The cyclists fly back tomorrow and Nigel and Monica have some free time to wander back to the UK more slowly exploring the wilds of Portugal.

Until then thank you for being interested.    Nick , Chris and I will keep cycling. We remain eternally indebted to Nigel and Monica for  their unwavering assistance and care throughout and we look forward to the next adventure in two years time

Boas Viagens. 

Wild Camping in the Serra de Monchique

87 miles 3514 ft climbed

The majority of today seemed to be on straight Roman roads blasting across the undulating plains of the Alentejo. We were joined at Porridge by a solo cyclist John who was travelling from Faro to Porto over 2 weeks it seemed to get away from family issues. Leaving the campsite just after 8 we covered over 17 miles in the first hour and managed 32 in two hours so our breakfast stop was made just afterwards in very good time. 

There was not much going on in the countryside which was dotted with cork oaks and olive trees, but we did see this station which in theory still served the nearest town and the railway was still operational but it really didn’t look as though it was still in use.

The highlights of the morning session were passing through two small towns of Viania do Alentejo and Vila Nova de Baxio which unlike the small Spanish towns we passed through last time, are full of people and busy. The first also featured the only significant climb up this cobbled street but gave us the best view of the morning over much of the route we had cycled.

The second leg was a further 30 + miles and gave us some more great views although the roads stayed straight. We were lucky in that whilst dry the cloud cover only started to break later in the afternoon so although warm we were not scorched by the sun.

Whilst as ever seeing loads of flowers and birds – lots of kites and storks today. One thing that you do come across that is more unpleasant is roadkill. Flat snakes and frogs often. Thankfully mostly you can smell and not see, although today there was a fully bloated cow next to the road and this mongoose like animal. 

Nick was very taken with this petrol station that sold Bridaljus  fuel. 

Having crossed the arid plains full of barley and a 1246 hectare Olive tree plantation that seemed to go on for miles and must have cost a fortune, as it was fully irrigated we then started a little climb into the Serra de Monchique from where I write this blog sitting On a stone at the top of the track that leads down to our wild campsite for the night, listening to the sound of the bees and a very  loud Cuckoo

Only one more day and 85 miles to go before Cape St Vincent with Chris and I hanging on to that mountain goat Nick we will get there. The forecast is for the hottest day of the tour so far so wish us luck as we intend to start at 7 to avoid the heat of the sun for our big climb of the day.

Posting now as battery down to 3% here we go ….

Evora

88 miles  4312 ft climbing

The title of today’s blog has much to do with the key ingredients of what we had to deal with in the day. 

As above we have got used to Portuguese cobbles in the towns and villages but in addition to this had a full section of road between towns to deal with.  Not only that, but around the town of Vila Vicosa the whole countryside had been dug up to provide marble for the kitchens and facades of Europe 

The many coloured marble had been extracted by cranes and lifts leaving  spoil heaps that looked like massive rubbish tips surrounding the rather beautiful town of Vila Vicosa

We left our very well run Dutch campsite near Castelo de Vide a little late as Chris had a puncture, falling off his bike in the process  without injury.

The early morning birdsong here was magnificent even if mixed in with a bit of Cuckoo.

The first section of the day through the Alentejo region was very sparsely populated and we enjoyed traffic free roads and plenty of wildlife. 

These storks attracted our attention as they clapped their beaks together and we thought that something was wrong with our bikes making us look around to see what’s happening.

Other things that we saw were butterflies, this fantastic Swallowtail stayed still long enough for its photo. Note that it has settled in the wild oats which are a the most often attractive roadside accompaniment. The fields and meadows were full of yellow, pink or mauve making everything so vibrant. Another amazing site was a huge flock of sparrows whose chattering was so intense it was hard to hear ourselves speak.

The roads were of varying quality but in general were often very straight and at times a bit gutty to cycle along. The countryside changed further to grass,  cork oaks and the occasional vineyard

The small villages we passed through showed signs of occupation unlike many of the Spanish ones two years ago. These above show the entrance into San Aleixo.

Having split the day into four in order to be able to fit breakfast, lunch and tea into the days cycling we were able to fit in a quick visit to Vila Vicosa which was the palace of the dukes of Braganza,  the ruling royal family of Portugal until the early 20 century  Even with this fantastic facade it was possible to park free in the square,  looking at this impressive marble frontage. We all know if something like this was in the U.K. or France it would be teeming with tourists and expensive. 

After Vila  Vicosa we had 36 Miles of rolling road to go which in reality was not the most exciting cycling we have ever done. We did however see this amazing double halo around the sun 

The final highlight of the ride was going through the UNESCO World heritage city of Evora which has been the first place we have visited that had more than three tourists.

Chris,  Nick and I were treated like true celebrities with all the Chinese,  Japanese and North Americans taking photos of us as we stopped at the Roman Temple of Diana and then our route took us through the pedestrianised streets 

Seeing a big town square full of cafes we decided to stop and take a quick beer before the final mile to the campsite. Here we were approached by a number of North American cyclists who were keen to know what we had done and where we were going and were more than happy to share our experiences.

The final mile achieved, Nigel and Monica had as usual got all the camping arrangements sorted and with a healthy salmon, salad and potatoes, a happy but tired cycling trio settled for bed without the sound of a Cuckoo for the first time in a week.

Castelo de Vide

43 miles 3252 ft climbing

For the first time in three days I am writing this blog outside as the barbecue is warming up. This is what we wanted  All very different from the start this morning as the driving rain very quickly quashed any thought that we had the previous night of a quick sprint up the mountain.

Striking camp in the pouring rain, with the temperature a cool 7 degrees, please note the moat like features around Chris’s tent which kept an annoying cat away, we jumped in the camper and motored away from the very wet high mountains of Portugal to Castelo Branco.

Here we then got back on our bikes for the first time in Two days and although we had to stop to don our shower proofs after only 5 minutes it was just that. We then rode the 15 miles to the impressive Portas da Rodao where the river Tejo ( Tagus in Spanish) pierces through the barrier of rock.

We then had a good climb up and over this barrier and were cheered on half way up by a couple who had stopped by the road. 

The roads were often really wet as the showers had just beaten us , but we did manage to keep dry apart from a short shower 2 miles before we hit camp

Taking a little detour before our lunch stop we had this great little descent by a stream where you may Just spot Chris and Nick speeding down the hill.

The lunch stop was in Nisa which we found with the tents drying over the local benches. Nisa is a very typical fortified town and since crossing the big hill and moving to the Alentejo region we noticed the change in the countryside with different flowers, which still adorned the roadside with beauty, fewer people and as ever the variety of bird life. Today we have seen Vultures, Eagles, Storks, Herons, and an Azure winged Magpie.  Whilst I write this the compulsory Cuckoo is sounding off in the background. We have heard one at every campsite so there are no concerns here about their decline, Nick has decided he does not like Cuckoos so cannot hear them!  

After the stop at Nisa we went for a further detour and also came across this 6200 year old Menhir of Patalou, which is the largest of its type in Portugal. 

The terrain having eased we were able to run along at the highest average speed we had done this tour.

It is true that when the weather changes so does the mood ( although Nick’s cup is always overflowing) and we certainly felt so much happier than for the last two days. This is what cycling should be all about.

The weather is expected to stay better from now on with only a chance of rain tomorrow. We were able to enjoy a super meal of steak,  potatoes and  cole slaw cooked on the barbecue. It is not warm but everyone is smiling and looking forward to another great day tomorrow.

Thank you for Keeping reading and supporting us

Covilha

0 miles

The forecast today was always marginal but the reality was worse. It rained all night and there was no let up over breakfast

A unanimous decision was therefore taken very early that we would camper the first leg and hope that the weather would clear

Nigel struck camp in the torrential rain and we then moved off to the local supermarket to stock up for the next few days. Living can certainly be cheap here and there were many reasonable bottles of wine under £2. A round of 5 coffees came to only 3 euros. The same as only one cup in Neros.

With the rain not clearing we carried on to the top of the first big climb of the day where we dried the tents in the very strong wind on the side of the mountain. 

The rain stopping and a window in the clouds gave us hope of getting back on the bikes so descending to the nearest town Manteigas we pulled over to get our bikes ready and gear on   Then the heavens opened again. Waiting a further 15 minutes it just got worse and any thought of cycling today was abandoned

The drive up the Zezere glacial valley initially showed how great this climb may have been, however as we got to over 1500m we hit the cloud base and could only see 30 yards ahead in driving rain and wind. The decision not to ride sadly proved correct again. 

Portugal has not been kind weather wise –  last week the temperature here was over 25. Having been planning this trip for over a year you try to think of everything but there are some things you cannot control. Fingers are crossed for tomorrow when we may make further adjustments to our plans as the weather remains unsettled, although we are now descending from the high mountains of Portugal 

Unfortunately the internet connection is poor today so no photos yet.  Now updated see biscuit games below which were followed by some serious cards. 

A frustrating intermittent internet connection today lost the first attempt at the blog so this may be a little rushed. I am writing this again with a thunderstorm raging overhead and the noise of the rain on the camper roof making it hard to hear each other.

The Three Legs today were magnificent , wet and abandoned in that order. I will explain later.

After a few showers overnight the day dawned brightly. The first leg started down from our beautiful campsite along some quiet country roads.  although we did end up on a cobbled main road for 3 miles which shook our bikes like crazy.

Following our campsite owners instructions  to the letter we then found the magnificent part of the first leg. The Ecopista Tamega , a former railway line running along the river Tamega. 

The views from this route were superb looking out over the river

The great thing about the cycling on old railways is of course the lack of gradients but to see the work that the engineers had to do to build this particular route building cuttings, viaducts, bridges and tunnels was humbling. To think that now it is a not particularly frequented bike path must be disappointing for them but not for us.

Apart from one 5 km stretch which was nicely gravelled the whole route was super smooth and much better than the cobbled lanes that we kept crossing   In the 18 miles we covered we only saw two other bikes, a few walkers and a courting couple enjoying a bench at one of the many well kept tiled but abandoned stations

We also cycled through what must have been a huge Eucalyptus forest fire for around two miles only a week or so before judging by the smell of soot and eucalypt oils and the lack of any undergrowth.

After coming out of a tunnel we finally reached the end of the track at Amarante. Crossing the river and the mobile fishmonger who had set his van up in the middle we then started the long climb before meeting our breakfast stop a third of the way up, importantly still dry.

Rushing to vacate the restaurant car park before it filled for lunch we then proceeded to climb the rest of 2000 ft to the top as the rain started to fall.

Taking refuge near the top in a bus shelter we saw the big town bus stop, wait for the village bus and then all it’s occupants leapt out with the shopping. It was here an elderly gent approached us explained he was French but Portuguese and 82 you know before shaking our hands and wishing us well

The descent in the rain was unpleasant but Nick and I still averaged over 25 mph for the 5 miles drop. Waiting at the bottom I was concerned that Chris, who was behind me did not appear and was on the verge of sending Nick back up to find him when he appeared being far more sensible in the conditions.

The last 5 miles along the port wine vineyards of the Rio Douro were more pleasant as the rain briefly held off. We even outpaced a giant river cruise boat whose decks were clear of tourists as they sheltered from the rain.

Nigel as promised had waited for us by the river at the entrance to Peso da Regua to serve tea and plan the next step

However after waiting an hour for better conditions a further weather check indicated that in addition to the rain, high winds were forecast so we decided that discretion was the better part of valour and took the camper to campsite option for leg Three. The way the camper was buffetted about over the summit of the next climb confirmed we made the right decision.  This is after all a holiday challenge and we are not totally crazy. We will see what we will cycle tomorrow although if this torrential rain beating down at present does not stop we will not be sure of having any roads left to cycle on.

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Quinta Valbom 84 miles 8322 ft

Today was about getting into Portugal and that we did after climbing to the top of the Portela do Homem, little did we realise at the time there was another 600 ft to the very top of this climb.

The other big thing of the day was the as ever the frequent barking of dogs as we rode past. Chris is no great lover of dogs and every time one starts to move or bark Nick reckons he changes into Chris Froome as the adrenaline kick sees him accelerate past us both.

To get Nick back a stray mutt wandering down a slope went straight for Nick as he was whizzing past at 25 mph or more and making an attempt at his ankle only managed to get a pedal in the head. The dog and Nick both survived unscathed.

The day started as ever at 8.30 sharp and after a long 900 ft climb in the first 5 miles we actually then enjoyed about 25 miles of flat riding across a plain before the next set of hills started.

Taking one of the back roads we were amazed to come across these Roman pillars – we later learnt that the pass we took across into Portugal was in fact used by the Roman military and there were more signs of their via by the roadsides

As usual Nigel”s coffee stop was at the top of a hill and we enjoyed a great view whilst eating our egg and bacon sandwiches. The weather held off all day with a bit of sun on an occasion but mostly overcast and we only had a couple of spots of rain, but we were glad to get down from the top of the pass as the clouds started to gather 

Having passed into Portugal the differences between the two countries were very apparent. Portuguese roads are generally not as good , they have more traffic and every now and again they suddenly become cobbles. 

The descent from the border was enlivened by several hairpins but in the middle there were these fully cobbled versions which we were glad were taken in the dry.

Further down the road opened up and dropping over 2200 ft Nigel was unable to keep up with us as we headed for the next dammed river valley which had been turned into a leisure lake with swanky homes hugging its shores and pedalos moored at the edge. 

A final tough climb warranted a fist pump as it must have averaged over 10% for its 2 km length. The hardest so far.

Portugal seemed busier than Spain and we saw many more people in the fields and about, tending sheep, pushing wheelbarrows or as these guys were doing 

Loading logs onto a lorry across the road. We had to squeeze between the two with the logs hovering above. Just after this I got a puncture with only 4 miles left to go. It’s not often we see haystooks these days. 

There was a drop to the campsite and then a 300 yard 30 % hill were we did get off and push.

The campsite (www.quintavalbom.nl) run by Dutch people with whom we enjoyed a pleasant vinho verde, is as ever immaculate, and the camper and tents are parked below some fantastic orange trees whose fruit is superb.  Chris is hoping for a quiet windless night so he is not bombed by falling oranges.

Apparently it is also the 100th anniversary of the famous Fatima apparition and the Pope is due to visit later this week. We have passed many pilgrims on our travels and whilst thinking that they were going to Santiago de Compostella many are on their way to Fatima which we are staying away from.

Please excuse the spelling and grammar as after a long day and with my eyesight failing and autocorrect putting in words I cannot see you may spot some unusual sentences.

Day 2

Monterroso- Allariz

82 miles 8825 ft climbing

Today was all about gorges and climbing. However as ever on these challenges things did not quite go to plan   Firstly the road we were meant to take did not exist causing us to descend on a  road that was barely used with grass growing in the middle as we descended the side of the valley   

Then after a very late breakfast stop st 1 pm the road we were due to take was closed and whilst on a bike we can usually sneak past it just was not the case today as a 6 ft drop onto sand and no road ahead meant a 5 mile detour – the first half downhill and the second half uphill on a road used for the Vuelta last year. All told these diversions added 10 miles and 1500 ft of climbing leaving Chris and me shattered after a very tough day. They did also as usual add those special sights sounds ( still loads of cuckoos) that makes these trips special.

It all started so well with the initial few miles on quiet country lanes squeezing through tiny villages 

The morning was chilly and luckily had a milky sky keeping the temperature down although by the afternoon it cleared and hit 30 degrees ( the rain is due tomorrow sadly)

We had decided this morning that by setting off early at 8.30 we could have brunch at around 11.00 however because of the terrain and route change we actually did not get what was now lunch of bacon and scrambled eggs until 1pm ! 

Whilst this had taken about an hour and a half longer than we expected the scenery was superb as was the yellow broom lighting up the hills or indeed the white broom which I have not seen before. 

Incredibly even down in the depths of the gorges, whilst there was absolutely no traffic- not a single car passed us for two hours- we did see the odd farmer tending to his grapes on the terraced hillside whilst he played soothing music to them through loudspeakers to make them happy grapes , according to Nick. In the middle of nowhere we also saw an old lady walking with a stick who looked like she had come straight from the Middle Ages with missing teeth and a long skirt. As we rode towards her she moved off the road as if a juggernaut was heading her way instead of three smelly Lycra clad cyclists.

Having run alongside this first gorge we then crossed over the dam to head up to our lunch stop which Nigel located in its usual picturesque spot.

Having then got down onto the gorge we then had to get our way out which was then a 1400 ft climb onto the plateau above made worse by the final 599 ft gradient getting steeper.

By this time both Chris and I were struggling with the constant up and down and Nick was leading the way more than ever. 

We then had the closed road which meant a hastily arranged detour through the village of Trios after the necessary , map, Garmin and Googlemaps consultation.

The one thing the the detour did give apart from sore legs and a sit down in a bus shelter near the top of the climb was a superb view from the terrace from one on the 10 houses in Trios

We found the campsite at around seven and averaged a paltry 11 mph for the day but did complete the most climbing in a day ever.

Tomorrow will see us leave Spain and arrive into Portugal with rain expected in the afternoon-wish us luck as more climbing awaits already tired limbs.

Day 1 Punta de estaca de Bares – Monterroso.

86 miles 8406 ft climbing

Day one certainly started with a bang with over 8000 ft of climbing which Chris and I struggled to keep up with that mountain goat Cabrera as the day wore on Nick ‘s prowess on the hills saw him move further ahead on each hill. That wasn’t the only bang as over lunch what initially sounded like mortar fire and machine guns nearby must have been some very expensive daytime fireworks.

Nevertheless we were all very pleased to arrive safe and sound at the campsite this evening after over 6 hours of pedalling.

Just to prove that we did start from the lighthouse – you can just see it behind the house above and the shot below was as we start along the headland surrounded by the yellowest gorse ever.

We did know that today would be a heavy climbing day but as you can see from the shots below we ended up climbing 2000 ft almost straight away but it did give us the benefit of these super views back to the sea

As ever Nigel waited to find the top of a hill alongside the wind turbines before we got our first bacon butty of the tour.

Nick denied anything to do with the sign that pointed out he was a camp (o ) Casanova

The first two legs today were especially tough and most of the terrain was covered by scented eucalyptus trees although I did spot a few errant English bluebells invading Spanish soil.

We have never seen so many turkey and chicken sheds and there were plenty of cows one which was being hand milked by its aged owner.

Every house had a barking dog which was pleased to see us arrive, thankfully most were on long ropes

The rolling countryside could have been in any Northern European country and only the language here reminds you it’s Spain

There have been lots of birds and we did see 5 kites circling over a farmer in his tractor turning over the grass   A deer did jump out in front of us too and I write this to the sound of a cuckoo in the woods next door.

This view below of Nick powering uphill was what Chris and I got used too.

Blue sky and as ever deserted roads were the norm.

On finally arriving at our site Nick then proceeded to give us a full warm down stretch routine and I can assure you we were not trying to push the camper over

Nigel fired up the barbecue and we enjoyed a well earned sausage and pork chop together with the first and hopefully not the last helping of Monica’s beetroot and apple salad.

Tomorrow is a shorter day and still expected to be dry as we look to hit the Sil gorges.

Well what a start. Knowing that we would have a drive across the northern coast of Spain before the start and arriving late at the campsite I took the provision of booking 6 weeks ago   When we arrived last night the gates were chained shut and only a couple of small dogs came out to meet us. Their owner then appeared and with Nick in full swing translating they explained that they were having works done and had no power so had not opened. She explained that there was another campsite just 2km along the coast , but that too was closed. So here we are wild camping just behind this beach having got the tents up just before dark at 10 last night watching a fabulous sunrise over the sea getting ready for the first day in the saddle.