nbjtours

Day Seven

Krems, Austria

87 miles 1490 feet climbed

Today was a very sobering and exhausting day both from a physical and mental viewpoint. Early on we took a little detour from the Danube cycle path to visit the Mauthausen Concentration Camp Memorial Centre which was an incredibly moving and saddening experience. More of which later.

In addition the constant headwind which we have had to deal with since the start of the Inn valley picked up even more strongly today so we had a block headwind all day. So much worse than a hill as there is no benefit for the extra effort.

We left a little later than usual so that we could arrive at Mauthausen just as it opened, having ridden about ten Miles with a nasty little hill at the end. This was a very good decision as it allowed us each to wander round the site on our own and reflect on how awful man can be to man for no real reason.

The site was very well presented and free to enter, respectful and not touristy ( although I’m sure it can be)

Some areas were particularly evocative, it should be on all school agendas to make children understand this horror and know that around 50% of the 190,000 inmates who were sent here between 1938 & 1945 died. Just so awful.

We left the visit quietly and contemplating what we had just seen. The road to the site had just been resurfaced and was the neatest smoothest road you will ever see. I was able to congratulate the workman ( in the background of the photo above) who were tidying the edges on their excellent workmanship.

Having had a quick coffee we knew we still had over 75 miles to cover and time was pressing on. We decided to change the programme a little to stop for lunch then have a tea stop later.

This stage was run mostly on the raised banks of the Danube and was particularly exposed to the draining headwind. Most of the levee was tarmac but one section was rough stone slabs so we had to resort to grass running for a while slowing us down further.

Allied to this , being stuck on the levee, meant there was little to see as the river was wide and featureless. A short section away from the river brought some relief and a bit of fun when we came across these pumpkins and squashes being sold

A full French stick lunch was followed by a slight change in the scenery as the Danube forced its way between hills on either side, but the wind was still slowing our progress.

Tea and doughnuts were taken with still 30 miles to go and we did not leave there until around four. After a short but very steep climb to get up and over a bridge we swapped to the other side of the river.

This was a good call as the cycle path no longer hugged the river itself but ventured into and out of the numerous small vineyard villages along the banks.

It was now that Nick said he had a phone meeting to attend to at 6pm otherwise he would be unable to put in his consultancy attendance invoice for $$$$$. As Chris and I had been holding Nick up we suggested he push on to get to the campsite. Although doing well he sadly ended up just over a mile short so we came across Nick in full conference call mode in the middle of a small village!!

Chris and I therefore throttled back and enjoyed the most scenic part of today’s route as much as our tired limbs would allow.

Durnstein was full of tourists probably having got off the Viking cruises boat docked nearby. We did not hang around, although understand Richard the Lionheart was supposed to have stopped here a few years ago.

Chris and I finally arrived at the campsite in Krems at 6.30 ready for our cold beer. Nick followed a few minutes later having successfully blagged his online attendance.

Once again Monica & Nigel rustled up an eagerly devoured dinner of chicken thighs potatoes and Monica’s infamous salad.

An exhausting and thought provoking day had come to an end Why can man be so evil and not learn the lessons of the past.