nbjtours

Day 14

Belgrade, Serbia

78 miles 3491ft climbed.

Total distance 1203 miles.

Well there we have it another tour successfully completed. Our arrival in Belgrade was not exactly met with fanfares but after a hard cycle in today we were all very pleased to have found Nigel , Monica and the camper tucked away in the fortress on the outskirts of the city.

Incredibly this is the first tour since the original Europe, End to End tour that we have not had a leg interrupted by the weather requiring a camper leg. No rain at all during the two weeks we have been away makes up for the rain everyday last year in Ireland.

Having got into the early routine, wild camping was no different, except we had to let each other know at which tree we dropped off our children!

As we left the farmer who had been at work cutting the sweetcorn since just after five gave us a big thumbs up. Unlike the big fields on the plain he only had a small towed harvester and it was going to take the best part of the whole day to harvest his field. We think that unlike the cattle destined corn we see in Northern Europe this is left to ripen fully on dried stalks and is fit for human consumption.

The first part of the ride saw us running along the ridge of the Fruska Gora mountains for around 25 miles. Although we kept our altitude in that time we had fifteen rollercoaster down and ups of about 200ft with regular gradients of 10%. This was super tough on our tired legs, but preferable to running through a city.

The mountain ridge road was dissected by four larger roads that went straight up and down and we had agreed to meet Nigel & Monica at the major one. This had a couple of small cafes where we stopped and had a coffee and Nick fought with a very tough doughnut. Hard to tear but tasted fine. An old boy with a part restored Ford made 1940’s D-Day Jeep took great interest in the camper calling it an old timer and invited himself in for a look around.

We stopped briefly to look at the very communist style monument above and with only a couple more climbs before the end of the ridge saw another well damaged communications tower, that although still bearing the scars of war was obviously still being used.

We then had a great long gradual descent off the ridge back onto the Danubian plain.

Having spent our time so far in the trees we had seen little in the way of humans apart from a few walkers and some hunters spit roasting a wild boar. Coming down off the ridge reintroduced us to towns and on the edge of the first one we saw the blingiest church ever invented. Chris was sure it came from Essex.

The gold and green reflected the sun so brightly it was almost impossible to look at. Serbia is a very religious country and there was a mass going on indoors.

Now back on the plain we traversed a few small towns surrounded by fields of corn, sunflowers and lots of apple orchards.

After a brief drinks stop above where a local suggested we get a beer before we shot off we headed back out on the yet more straight roads across the plain. We have never been so straight so often for so long.

Travelling along between the orchards one chap was just climbing into his tractor with some bins full of apple as behind him. While passing I ask if I could have one and he nodded so I went back

Serbian people are known for their generous nature and Borivoje was no exception as he proceeded to hand over half a dozen huge green apples proudly declaring them to be Golden Delicious. I just about fitted them into the bag I carry just in case when he stopped me going a proceeded to go back into the orchards a pick another handful of red apples this time. “ Red delicious “ he said and with around four kilos of apples we thanked him and set off for lunch.

A tractor pulled out just in front of us and was just slightly slower than our running rate so after a bit of drafting we took the plunge and sped passed without a problem. We found Nigel & Monica not far up the road hiding in another apple orchard to enjoy our final lunchtime feast.

Agreeing our final rendezvous in Belgrade we set off on more of the straight country roads before starting to come into the outer dormitory towns and suburbs of Belgrade.

Traffic began to get busier and cars were parked both sides of the street whilst their owners went shopping so we had to keep our wits about us to check no one was reversing into the road. As if that was not bad enough the lorries and buses were most disrespectful overtaking us with not much room to spare and at unabated speed. It was noticeable how many folk were waiting for the regular buses at every stop and we decided to stay behind one as each time we had caught it up it went past again.

Finally after coming down a hill some roadworks took us off the main road and we were able to get onto the busy promenade next to the Danube for a sharp intake of breath and relax.

We now had a relaxing run into Belgrade off the road much to all our relief.

A very hard fought medieval battle reenactment group provided a brief interlude and we can assure you that they were really throwing their swords with venom.

Because of the traffic we revised our plans and forsook the ride over the new suspension bridge running along the river to see the city. Crossing the river Sava we met up with the camper and the cycle was over. The longest trip we have completed as a threesome.

Deciding to treat ourselves to a steak for dinner the trip to the Serbian supermarket was successful and Nigel was for the first time this trip allowed to fire up the barbecue, so he was a happy man

As we sat down to eat we were buzzed by three Serbian airforce MiG 29 jets on their way back to base at Batajnica air base just up from the campsite.

I am writing this blog as we traverse Hungary having had to wait almost 11/2 hours to get back into the EU at the Hungarian border.

We should still get to Vienna airport in time to drop Nick & Chris’s off for their 530 flight back to the U.K. Nigel will then drive the rest of us back to Calais and the U.K. for tomorrow evening.

I hope to put together some reflections on the trip in the next day or so. Thank you to Cadence Performance Cycles in Paddock Wood for providing spares, although we have only needed one inner tube all tour. It remains Chris, Nick & my thanks to Nigel & Monica for their unbelievable support to help us achieve what very few have or can do. Who do you know who has been to Serbia?

This journey is over but the planning for next year has already begun We can already announce it will be during the first two weeks in June.