Day Two
Sarria to Astorga
Total 98 Miles but between 56 and 85 miles cycled.
Maximum elevation achieved 8995 ft.
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We had climbed the first big mountain of the day and were looking forward to a nice speedy descent having found the old road down, as once again the Spanish were building a new motorway. After a couple of kilometres down a sign said the road was closed but we thought ok let’s just try.
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However it was not so simple as that road took us directly onto the new motorway which was being used in one direction. Deciding we had better not go on the motorway, we went back up to the main road where there was a no bikes allowed sign as the main road was being used as the one way up of the other side of the motorway. we were therefore stuck with no way down.
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As ever Nick said leave it to me I’ll see if I can find a track. Hey he did and after a little off roading we managed to negotiate our way under the motorway and onto the other side of the old road back on our way down
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We counted five immense viaducts just along this stretch looming over us The cost must be huge.
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This morning we knew it was to be a big day so rose early to get an early start at 8am. Nick complained about noisy birds and dogs keeping him awake but it may have been that Nigel had kindly pitched his tent under a light !
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The morning was cool and misty and our first climb of the day started as soon as we left the campsite. At around three and a half Roughways ( a local climb to Hadlow) and 1200 ft it was a solid start to the day and gave us our first great shots of the day. We even saw a couple of Pine Martens.
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Having ascended this small peak we then descended into Samos which was a small village dominated by a huge monastery. Nick tried but we were unable to find someone to stamp our credencials.
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After running alongside a river for a while we then started the first big climb which was a 1900 ft climb over 6 miles most of which was at a constant gradient of 7-8%. As ever Dom and Nick shot up the climb whilst Chris and Neil were pleased to struggle to the top.
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Nigel and Monica arranged coffee stop just over the peak where as usual we the enjoyed local Pastries as well as our coffee enjoying a magnificent view.
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After the refuel we thought we were in for a nice downhill but there were in fact three peaks to the top in this col meaning more work to be done before we had the fun of trying to descend properly.
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Although the first part of the descent was as problematic as already described once we had found our way onto the old old road ( whose surface was better than most of our Kentish roads) we had a good speed down off the mountain and then some proper cycling for a few miles running alongside the river with the motorway usually flying above us on yet more viaducts.
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This finally brought us into Villafrancia ( French town) so named because French pilgrims from the Middle Ages liked it so much here they stayed and grew vines.
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Once again we needed Nick’s language skills as the road was officially closed and a local workman was less than happy initially to let us past swinging the arm of his digger across the street. After Nick had explained we were mad Englishmen he let us walk by!
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We rode through the town and got our credencials stamped before joining the pilgrims track out of town. Nick tried to convince us he counted every pilgrim he saw walking today. We are not convinced that the 190-208 figure he finally arrived at is correct. Certainly after seeing the paths they took none of us would have the slightest inclination to try to walk the Camino.
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Nigel had parked up just off this track and found some shade from the hot sun although by now lunch was to be taken at 4 o’clock because of the slow cycling and route problems.
Chris and Neil decided to stop for the day having had enough. Nick and Dom were keen to do the last climb but were running out of time so we all hopped in the camper after lunch. Nigel
Then drove through the big industrial town of Ponferrada and dropped them at the bottom of the big climb.
We watched them up the first three kilometres and then left to set up camp next to the bullring in Astorga. Both of course got to the top but Nick was less complimentary about the route as the top of the climb saw the steepest gradients at over 15%. Serious kudos to them. Chris & I were happy we made the right decision.
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Tonight’s menu was beef stew which we ate outside in the warm finishing around 9.30 still bathed in sunshine.
The bullring is next to the local air ambulance station and as we finished the helicopter came in to land to complete an exciting day.
Tomorrow is the flattest day of the tour with only around 3000 ft of climbing but the temperature across the Spain plain is expected to reach 30 degrees plus so it will be another challenging day.
hi NBJ and team, your photos are bringing back happy memories of the Camino from last year. Samos was where a monk chased a Jewish member of our party around the church to douse with Holy Water against his will. All this whilst his brethren sang a chant to the tune of Blowing In the Wind.
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Well done James. You will not catch us walking it – having seen the faces of those going the other way!
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