Well as Chris and. Nick reminded me at the weekend NBJ Tours have been pedalling around Europe on and off (pandemic allowing) for the last 15 years. The first intrepid feat being from Hadlow tower to the Eiffel Tower back in 2007 being waved off by the whole of Hadlow School.

Since then we have cycled at least a bit in 14 different countries. Having surprisingly just reached my sixth decade and desperate not to become old, new challenges must be found.

In my dreams, I had wanted and have planned, a full west to east of Europe, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Black Sea to go with the north to south adventure already achieved, but a mix of not biting off too much and the fact that the route I had in mind finishes in Odessa,Ukraine, made the decision to tone the event down a little easier.

So next year from 1 -18 September the aim will be to cycle through 9 countries taking in 6 capital cities and adding 7 new countries to our list.

Week one will see us start in Mulhouse, France before crossing into Switzerland at Basel, cycling across the country through Zurich onto Liechtenstein and it’s capital Vaduz. The route then takes us over the Alps right the way across Austria, via a tiny bit of Germany to Vienna popping into Innsbruck and Salzburg on the way. We are expecting a few hills and even mountains in the first half of the week before picking up the Danube for the last couple of days into Vienna.

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In week two, after hopefully having a day or twos rest in. Vienna we will get back on the saddles to venture south and east mostly following the Danube. This will take us into four new countries Slovakia, Hungary,, Croatia and Serbia, visiting the capitals of three of these countries too.

The dates are fixed, the fitness levels to be maintained and improved, Nigel, Monica and that stunning green camper are ready as ever as the expedition base . So health,wealth and geo-politics pending our challenge for 2023 is set.

Dublin

53 miles

1161 ft climbed

All good things come to an end I write this entry as we wait in the camper to board the ferry from Dublin to Holyhead this evening having completed todays riding and dropped Nick off at the airport and deposited Chris and his wife Karen at their campervan hire centre.

The morning dawned strangely sunny and everyone was up super early to take advantage of the pleasant weather. The campsite was playing host to Dublin’s dog agility group so there were a serious number of hounds about. Fortunately after one barking session just before ten they were pretty quiet so we were all fresh for the ride.

We left the site at 7.45. The days riding was the flattest of the tour so far but had three small hills. The first riding was on smaller roads surrounded by hedgerows and was not dissimilar to a flat ride out to Headcorn.

One notable feature we came across was running up Flagstaff Hill in Curragh Camp military base and on to the famous Irish race course at The Curragh where the sheep were grazing freely on the wide open grasslands.

After a coffee and croissant stop which was enlivened by a special guest appearance from some jam doughnuts (as ever courtesy of Lidl’s) we left for the last leg of the tour.

From here I had planned the route to go along the Royal Canal into Dublin to avoid the traffic in the suburbs. It was a good decision and we enjoyed the easy car free flat ride which reminded us of many of the French rides we have made.

As usual there was bit of wildlife along the towpath but unusually we were subject to a couple of attacks, the first a very aggressive Swan who decided that he was less than keen on letting us passed and hissed and went for us as we went.

Shortly afterwards a Heron decided to dive bomb Chris and was less than a foot above him as he rode underneath. We haven’t got a photo of this moment sadly but have another Heron below

As we came into Dublin the clouds grew and so as not to miss out, as we rode through Phoenix Park , a short shower duly ensured that it rained on us every day of the tour

So we could enjoy a bit of Dublin the route then took us both sides of the Liffey before returning to the Guinness brewery. Whilst busy, the cycle lanes assisted our progress and we arrived at our destination before half twelve in what was probably the quickest leg of the tour as it had been so flat.

The queue for the Guinness visit was too long so we met up with the camper and shared the fizz with Nigel and Monica on another successful tour.

Well there it is, the Circuit of Ireland completed. Originally planned in 2019 and booked in 2020 we have completed it in 2022

Ireland is a spectacular country that deserves its moniker as the Emerald Isle in both colour and jewel. With one exception everyone has been great. We have seen and climbed some great hills & passes and paid our view tax to enjoy the sights on offer. I would recommend a visit, perhaps not on a bike but if you pack your raincoat and pick your days you will not be disappointed.

Our highlights were obviously the West coast but as I write this, the Gap of Dunloe, Mizen Head and the fjords in Connemara were the stand outs.

We met up with our old friend Mike and enjoyed the hospitality of Paul and Ginny on the way.

All of us have had a great time. Chris so much so, his wife, Karen, has flown over and they have two more weeks to go and explore what we have missed and revisit the best bits.

Nigel and Monica’s support to let us do this is amazing , and the camper has not let us down at all. It has been a noticeable attraction wherever we have been and Nigel can be rightly proud of his rebuild.

All Chris, Nick and myself have done is to eat, sleep and cycle ( although Nick had the cheek to beat Nigel at cards too ) whereas Nigel has been indefatigable in his cooking, driving, tent erection and positive support whatever the problem or weather.

Subject to the current world situation we hope to be back on the road in September of next year when a warmer country will be our objective. Until then, in the words of the old man we met high in the hills of Donegal. Aie.

Athy

35 miles

1105 ft climbed

For our penultimate day in the saddle we had originally looked to do 100 miles but the weather played its part and ruined that possibility, although in reality our legs ( well Chris’ and mine ) were pretty ruined from the amount of cycling we have done over the past two weeks anyway. We were therefore not upset at the lower mileage.

We have come across lots of ruins on this trip whether old farmsteads caused by the potato famine or more recent abandoned farms as mechanisation and city working has taken over. Today we saw more large medieval castles and religious edifices than any other day Incredibly much was down to Henry VIII whose dissolution of the monasteries had a devastating effect in Ireland as well as in England as his reign extended here.

The morning dawned with some sun so we were optimistic of a good day as initially only showers were forecast. Having got up early and dispatched our porridge we were on the road by 8.00 and cracked on on damp but flattish roads.

The roads were pretty quiet and our first leg was only to be 20 miles to the Rock of Cashel. Before we even got there though in the middle of a farmers field surrounded by cows and sheep we came across these unmarked ruins.

Only later did we discover these unheralded ruins are of the biggest abbey complex in all Ireland covering 6 acres. The farmer obviously finds them an annoyance and keeps them low key. In the U.K. there would be a visitor centre tea shop and a £20 entry fee. However it has to be remembered that there are over 700 major religious ruins in the country, so choices have to be made.

We agreed to meet Nigel & Monica at the Rock of Cashel. This is the site of the ancient kings of Munster and purportedly one of the most important architectural historic sites in all Ireland as it incorporates a Hiberno-Romanesque chapel built for King Cormac McCarthy completed in 1134. Although it is dwarfed by the subsequent cathedral built by his enemies the O’Briens who killed him. Entry to the chapel is restricted to 200 persons a day to avoid moisture damaging the frescos so we were lucky to get in.

After the visit we had our coffee and croissants pleased that our early stop had beaten the tourist buses that were now arriving.

We got ready to go out for the next leg to Kells ( a different one to the book of Kells) but having put our cycling gear on and got ready to leave it started to rain. Not only that it remained very cold. We looked at one another and Nick said ‘That’s it I’m not cycling in this ‘ We were not about to argue so Chris and I got back in the camper.

We decided to drive to the next stop , Kells, and see what the weather was like when we got there.

The rain continued but we thought we’d have a good look round. This site was not the tourist bus Mecca like Cashel, as there were only four cars in the car park. Inside the ruins we did find a solitary guardian in his little wooden shed as this site was administered by the state.

An enjoyable visit to this large site The rain continued to fall so we decided once again to go as far as Carlow and reassess. Hooray – as we got to Carlow the rain almost stopped and keen to get back out on the bikes we got Nigel to stop the van so we could cycle the last few miles home.

Stopping for a natural break we noticed this farmer had planted his crops at slightly different times so produced this incredible picture which does not seem real but I can assure you is not photoshopped.

Nick then took the peloton on a speedy 10 km ride into Athy ( pronounced A tie) where we found these cars ready for an event tomorrow. Athy was the base for the first ever international motor race in the British Isles in 1903 when the Gordon Bennett Trophy race was held here because it had straight roads around. At the time there were only 200 Cars in the whole of Ireland so it must have been quite a sight for the locals when the 12 cars set off.

Athy’s most famous son is the great polar explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton who was born and initially educated near here. I popped into the local museum and had a nice chat with the ladies manning the desk Whilst not ever reaching the pole his greatest achievement was saving the lives of all of his men when they got stuck in the ice by guiding an open lifeboat 800 miles and trekking over a glacier to save them. A true inspirational character claimed by the British as one of their own!

As the boys were unable to find an open hostelry Chris was keen to get to the campsite as soon as he could. He powered the last two miles to enjoy a quick beer outside the already erected tents before the rain descended again in force. The second one to be had in the camper. He was doubly rewarded with a spag bol for dinner as he had requested.

Although the game was close Nick once again prevailed at cards making it four wins in a row and easily won the tournament.

Although we had not done much cycling today we at least managed a few miles and took in some fabulous ruins. We may have to get a really early start in to achieve the target tomorrow.

Glen of Aherlow nr Tipperary

58 Miles

3881 ft climbed.

The objective today was to get to Tipperary to be able to debunk the famous World War One song. Checking the song out, apparently it was originally written as it’s a long long way to Connemara. We’ve already been there so that’s ok It was changed because a co-author had family from here and was song about a Irishman missing home written two years before the war began but adopted as it was easy and a popular reminder of home.

We left the campsite at Blarney at 8.30 as usual and whilst not boreens we found smaller unbusy roads and started climbing straightaway. Cycling north we kept crossing the prevailing hill ridges and then dropping back down into the valleys.

Apparently there is a heatwave in continental Europe and the temperature in the Arctic Circle reached 33c. Here the weather was decidedly on the cool side. I think the best we’ve had all tour is 18c and it hasn’t reached 15C all week. Today was overcast with some showers around although we only caught the edge of a couple There was a bit of blue sky though.

The landscape had changed to rolling hills and agriculture, mostly pasture supporting herds of cows. We did see one large field of potatoes all in flower.

Coffee and croissant stop was at Glanworth today. Even though it was only just over 20 miles into the day, we had already climbed almost 2000 ft so were ready for a stop as my legs seemed to have disappeared today

Leaving Glenworth we quickly detoured to see its castle but then on leaving came across it’s abandoned Protestant church and Dominican Friary which we had a quick peak round. Amazing to see so much attached to a very small town.

Our next problem was a closed road. Ignoring the signs we carried on to be met by heras fencing right across the road. We squeezed passed.

Getting through the fencing we came across a massive trench dug across the road but we could get round by going into a farmyard.

Not being sure what it was, we asked the foreman Mickey what it was for. He explained it was a cow underpass. Saying that as farmers work on their own and traffic has increased so much they cannot slow the traffic down so build these underpasses. We saw very little traffic in comparison to the SouthEast but apparently there have been several fatalities in the area. They had a week to do the work which was to cost €100,000. Apparently no subsidies involved but suggests the farmer is doing ok.

The roads allowed some faster riding and as usual there were a number of monuments and plaques to the various uprisings and wars for Irish independence.

Finally we found some boreens today and they were some of the most luxuriant and unkempt ones of the trip leaving only a foot wide track to ride on. At one stage we hit over 30mph doing this.

It was not far to go to Tipperary but we had a lunch stop outside a school which although open looked very under-utilised. Nigel checked that there was no issue having three Lycra clad cyclists camped outside the school having lunch!

Cycling into Tipperary Town it was very busy and we had to use our best traffic conscious tactics. Apart from the photo we took however the pubs seemed closed so we decided to move on.

There were only 6 miles to the campsite but it required us the cycle over the ridge and down into the Glen of Aherlow where we are staying. We effectively finished with the toughest climb of the lot. Cresting the hill we took the shortcut through the Aherlow House hotel grounds. Nick being ever resourceful saw the terrace so the Guinness that we missed was consumed on the terrace of this posh hotel looking across the glen to the Galty Hills

After our Guinness we had a short ride to the campsite. After arriving we fitted a new front tyre to my bike as it was looking a bit worn in places as you could see the canvas. Then a shower and a curry dinner where we were joined by Doug an American hiking the length of Ireland.

Suffice to say Nick once again had the beating of Chris And Nigel to make it three wins in a row for the novice! Beginner’s luck I don’t think so.

The campsite today is in the grounds of a former country house destroyed in the Irish Civil war in the 1920’s but the coachhouse and huge walled garden remain.

Not such a memorable day today as we crossed the midlands of Ireland but it did remind us that this is still a very rural country and large chunks remain depopulated as there continued to be many empty and abandoned houses from across several centuries.

Lawn mowing, road repairs, hedge cutting and of course power strimming remain the most common pastimes we have seen apart from tractor driving of course. As I finish this entry off I can hear the tractor in the field next door spreading muck to remind me the famous odour of Hadlow is only a few days away!

Just two days remain before our intended destination of Dublin and we are hoping for fewer hills tomorrow.

Blarney

70 miles

4034 ft climbed

In chatting with our host, Paul , last night we were discussing the small tracks and roads with the central luxuriant carpet of grass down the middle. A bit like a Brazilian for the road. He explained that they are known in these parts as a Boreen.

Apparently boreen is derived from the Irish bothar meaning cow path ( a track where two cows can pass each other). A bothrin is a little cow path, which is then corrupted into boreen.

We decided that we prefer boreens as there is usually very little traffic allowing safe riding with plenty of discussion.

Leaving our hosts Paul and Ginny in the nice home. ( You can’t fault them for swapping central Sittingbourne for rural west Ireland.) we started off on numerous and very hilly boreens as we left the Mizen peninsula. Whilst tough riding it was very rewarding with some good views including the last ones of the Atlantic we will see on this trip.

At one stage we emerged from all these small roads into the attractive small town of Ballydehob arriving at the peak time of around nine when everyone is in a rush.

Carrying on along many small roads we barely saw a car and at one stage made a navigational error missing a left turn because we thought it was an entry to a farm. In fact it was a freshly laid road where the gravel just had not been properly swept or rolled into the tarmac. This was a brute of a climb at one stage reaching 20% on the loose surface. As the steep part ended we stopped in what looked like the farm yard where numerous dead tractors lay littered around.

We were being helped along by a brisk westerly and for this first leg it was mostly sunny but not warm. In fact we did not need to put a rain jacket on all day. A first for the trip even if it did drizzle briefly a couple of times

The views remained good from the top but there was a change in the scenery to more active agricultural farmland

Just before dropping off the last boreen before coffee to meet the camper we came across the lone church tower of Drinagh standing guard over the spookiest graveyard you have ever seen.

It looked as though it had come straight out of a hammer house of horror film and the graves were about to come alive at any moment. The information board even said that there had been a watch room to stop grave robbers lifting cadavers.

As ever Nigel had found a great place to stop for coffee and croissants. This time next to a lake. We agreed that we would look to try to meet up for lunch near the Michael Collins memorial where he was ambushed and killed as by coincidence it was on the route.

Cracking on after coffee we came to the small town of Ballynacarriga which was incredibly busy as there was a funeral taking place Parking had been laid on at a nearby GAA stadium and there were marshals in hi-viz directing traffic at all the entrances to the village. As well as this it had an impressive castle.

Although I had managed to find the occasional boreen it had been necessary to put the route onto some larger roads which were noticeably busier. We did find the Michael Collins memorial but it was at the side of the road where they were relaying the tarmac in the middle of single alternate line traffic so we did not bother to stop. We found Nigel half a mile up the road waiting patiently as ever.

This last leg of the day was the busiest we have had all tour even though I routed away from main roads where possible. We were therefore happy to get to Blarney Castle all together at the end of the day

Monica had decided that there was no point in Nigel visiting the castle so only Chris Nick and I went. Having expected not much we were pleasantly surprised by the castle and its excellent gardens which were well looked after.

We decided as we were here we had to kiss the Blarney Stone and duly queued up with a load of Americans to do so. Whilst not a frightening experience certainly it was disorienting sitting back up after leaning over the edge.

Going back to the camper and campsite dinner was a minimum of five sausages each with only the second appearance of Monica’s beetroot and apple salad. There was nothing left.

As I write this blog Nick has once again wiped the floor with Chris and Nigel at cards. So much so they think he is probably a card shark.

We have a shorter ride tomorrow to Tipperary and hope that the route has more boreen than road as that is a far preferable way to ride. Fingers crossed the rain may hold off too.

Mizen

48 miles

3278ft climbed

Whilst this circuit of Ireland has quite often hugged the coast and used parts of the official Wild Atlantic Way an NBJTour always has a route that is designed for its riders. In this way we often have detours to see different sights or climb extra mountains or in today’s version extra gates.

The track along the northern side of the Mizen peninsula was very picturesque and incorporated more than just gate climbing but also a Ford crossing

There were terrific views but perhaps we should not have gone through the “PRIVATE farm track, the bull is dangerous” sign. It did give us a bit of light relief from pounding down the roads, with Chris even cutting a path through the high grass. To avoid any doubt there was a metalled road underneath but we doubt many had been down it for a while. Whilst tempting fate we incredibly have not yet got a puncture between us despite abusing our tyres so, the camper on the other hand…..

Perhaps not quite what I had expected but it is these extra challenges and the small off the beaten track ( literally) routes that helps makes these rides so much fun as we see so much more than if we just blasted down the main routes like many others.

Let’s fess up again before getting into the riding. When we woke up the sun was shining but as we were about to start the heavens opened, so fully togged up and ready to go we delayed the start.

At the same time we saw a Velo tourist pack away and also wait until the rain had gone. Chatting to him he had ridden from Strasbourg to Roscoff to get the ferry to Ireland and was then doing Scotland and England before going back to France in October. His bike weighed a ton and we all decided that it was not for us.

As the weather refused to change we decided to cheat again, so put the bikes in the camper and drove to Lidls in Bantry ten miles down the road where it was not raining. We could see that it stayed raining for some time where we had been staying so it was a good move as to start the day wet was not necessary.

Passing through the attractive town of Bantry we then had an up and down ride into the headwind along the Sheeps Head peninsula. This is a recognised part of the Wild Atlantic Way but not a commonly used option.

Nigel passed us and we agreed to meet at the top of the ridge that acted as the backbone of the peninsula, Seefin viewpoint, which was at the top of the goat track.

Chris & I already knew that Nick would be gunning up the track, as Cabrera means goatherd in Spanish, so had a laugh when two big brown hares decided to bound up the hill for about 500 yards in front of Nick as he launched his attack right at the bottom of the hill.

Although only about 500 ft the climb was steep for some good sections of it, so we were pleased to reach the fully Lidl stocked camper, for coffee at the top. Another good Windy descent took us back to the edge of the sea and this time it was somewhat easier with a following wind.

We had a short stop at a memorial gardens for an Air India plane that was bombed in Iune 1985 and a few other pretty jetties before switching across to the final peninsula to Mizen head.

We then turned back into the headwind to make our way to the head. As I explained earlier taking a quieter route ended up with us enjoying views to ourselves and some fun cycling.

Just round the corner, after a long climb always overlooking the sea, so with a great view, Nigel parked up for our traditional French stick picnic lunch which we took in the camper as although it was sunny the wind was so strong

Just as we left the clouds suddenly descended and the view disappeared, the rain arriving. Doning our wet weather gear, luckily it was only needed for two minutes as the squall passed and the sun was back out again.

There were only another seven miles to Mizen Head but with three miles to go there was a traffic jam into which the camper was stuck. A coach and car had a coming together and neither wanted to move. Coincidentally the coach was carrying cyclists from Sligo about to do Mizen to Malin the Irish equivalent of Lands End to John O’Groats. No one was hurt but it did mean we got to the head before Nigel and Monica who remained stuck for another 20 minutes or so.

The views from the head were spectacular with big waves crashing against the angry looking cliffs, seals playing in the currents and interesting exhibits about the nature, lighthouse and radio station to wander round

We then realised we had stayed much longer then we thought at the head so abandoned the last 14 miles to our final destination for the day.

This was Paul and Ginny’s new house. They having just moved to Ireland from the U.K. following both working in the police force where they had met Nigel. Thanks to them we enjoyed a chilli followed by choice of dessert Apple pie and custard or specaloos cheesecake. No pressure now Nigel!

With Chris and Nick taking over downstairs we were made to feel very welcome and thank them both for their kind hospitality.

We now turn away from the coast as we head inland across Ireland to Dublin. Tomorrow we aim for Blarney. Sadly we expect rain every day again this week so have dried the tents out ready.

Glengariff

69 miles

4764 ft climbed

Today was always going to be about the climbs. We hoped to do the Gap of Dunloe , Molls Gap and the Healy Pass. I am writing this as torrential rain is pelting down outside but am pleased to say that apart from a short shower early on and a bit of drizzle later we saw more rain but we’re not under it until the tents were safely up.

We initially rolled out of Tralee on some smaller roads and it stayed dry for the first 28 minutes.

The roads were a bit rough and had been resurfaced recently but rather than do the whole road width the paver must have only been 5 feet wide so that’s all they did. We eventually came across them because as usual we ignored the road closed sign but the chaps were happy to stop and guide us past.

These roads led towards the Gap of Dunloe which we could see from afar as a genuine gap in the chain of Macgillycuddys Reeks ( I had to include that as it’s such a good name)

Although the weather continued to be threatening the rain just about held off.

Finally getting to the Gap of Dunloe we had to share the road with lots of tourists and the local jaunty cart drivers. Some less than willing to move over and let you pass.

The whole ride up the gap was a super fun one with different scenery and even a very steep section of up to 19%

Waiting patiently at the top of the hill was the Green camper where Nigel and Monica had set up breakfast which we were only too happy to enjoy having climbed the hill.

Whilst enjoying our coffee and croissants Nigel spotted a lone cyclist pushing himself up the hill on a hire bike and invited him in.

After coffee Daniel from Hervey Bay, Queensland joined us for the next ten miles or so from the top of the gap of Dunloe to the top of Molls Gap Only 21 he is spending nine months travelling most of Europe ( next stop Sicily) before going back to Oz to join the navy and go in the submarines. A gutsy thing to do and we wished him luck. We guess he wanted to see life above the water before taking the plunge.

Having left Daniel who was going back to Killlarney we swept down the descent until we had to turn off down a smaller road where I had a bit of a scare as my handlebars came loose on the bumps so I had to stop to tighten them up. A short stretch of track then followed before we the had a ten mile stint to lunch.

After a brief visit to the stone circle at Kenmare ( two euros to see it was a joke )

The route went along the edge of the Beara peninsula and by the last two miles into the headwind I was struggling, slipping behind Chris and Nick so needed a Karen flapjack moment to fire up for the last couple of miles before meeting the camper at a very picturesque location at this headland.

The weather was due to change with a big Atlantic depression due to bring in some rain so we were keen to give the Healy Pass a go as soon as possible. Whilst the clouds looked ominous apart from a little drizzle the rain held off.

The climb was almost 1000 ft but steady with the gradient only hitting 13% right at the end so it was an enjoyable ride up. Our effort ( view tax) was rewarded with views both ways as the clouds lifted a little. This was more than my mum managed on her visit to Ireland in 1959 when my parents drove to the top on two occasions to get a view and just got cloud.

Looking over the other side the road twisted and turned back on itself and just as we were about to leave we heard the farting like note of Nigel’s motorbike and watched him carefully climb up to us. When he opened his helmet his grin was almost as wide as the opening. He enjoyed himself but warned that the wet roads were greasy so not to take any chances round the bends.

We all had a blast coming down and met up with the camper just after the end of the descent. Looking at the weather coming and having completed the main events of the day we decided that the last 8 miles would be better off in the camper so the tents could be put up whist it was not raining. So we ended the cycling part of the day on a real high. Good decision

A terrific ham, coleslaw and potato dinner was demolished as usual and whilst I caught up on writing yesterdays blog Nick once again came from behind to beat Chris and Nigel at cards despite continuing to profess he knows nothing. The debate on how it was achieved was worth listening to!

Another great day with all three climbs achieved and some fun downhill sections. We all agree the ranking was Dunloe, Healy then Molls although Molls is perhaps the most famous.

The rain which is pounding the camper at present ( I can hardly hear myself think) is due to go on all night but hopefully stop by 9 am. As long as Nick and Chris have not been washed away we are looking to ride down to Mizen Point before calling in on Nigel’s friends later to stay the night.

Tralee

30 Miles

1857 ft climbed

Today was always programmed to be a catch up day allowing us to potentially rest, get the laundry done and rest ourselves before the second half of the trip.

As usual Nigel and Monica got ahead of the programme and managed to get two loads of smelly cycling gear washed and dried yesterday evening. The weather continued to be damp and after a discussion we decided that a full circuit of the Dingle peninsula was chancing it but we would like to do the Conor pass. As the wind was a westerly it made sense to drive out to Dingle and then cycle back. Stopping for breakfast at Dingles Lidl we set off up the hill straight away afterwards.

At least it wasn’t raining and there were even a couple of small breaks in the cloud so we saw a bit of sun.

The climb was a comfortable 6 km long but never too steep and we were able to catch some good views over the Dingle peninsula.

After coming down the pass we then had a ten mile run along the coast to a lunch stop. With Nick leading the peloton we completed the ten miles in under half an hour thanks to a tailwind all the way. We reckon our fastest consistent ride ever.

The rain started again but we decided to get on the bikes for the final dash home. Nick as ever leading the peloton. The only criticism Chris and I had was that he decided to veer off the rout to a non existent viewpoint which required we climb back up to the main road. We then refused detours apart from a brief stop to see this windmill on the outskirts of Tralee we sped home in the damp and all had a rapid shower.

Rather than a camper cuisIne Nick & Chris took us out for a slap up meal in the best restaurant in town, Cassidy’s, where we all ate a fabulous meal in particular liking the Tralee Bay seafood chowder. The restaurant had a great old fashioned feel of a good local eatery.

After the restaurant we called into Sean Og’s pub where we enjoyed a proper Irish pub full of punters and singing along to the live musician Great fun to experience a real slice of Irish music and hospitality.

As Nick & Chris were staying in an hotel in town tonight. Nigel , Monica and I walked back to the campsite via Neil Armstrong Way. It s a strange fact that the first man on the moon visited Tralee in 2012 to open a history of space exploration.

Tralee

38 miles

1752 ft climbed

Today saw no improvement in the weather and initially it was too windy to cycle next to the coast. As today was only meant to be a short day interrupted by a ferry ride we decided to camper the 14 miles to the ferry.

The highlight of the day undoubtedly being the visit to the Lartigue monorail in Listowel where the four volunteers running the whole thing could not have been more willing, including a former Irish footballer & Minister in The Irish Government, Jimmy Deenihan, who had been instrumental in getting US and EU funding to get the project off the ground.

Although it was raining, following the visit we then decided to continue cycling as there were only 25 miles to go it may not have been a wise idea as the rain and wind worsened. It was one of the grimmest cycles we’ve ever done. However it was a challenge to which we rose.

We were somewhat reluctant to leave http://www.strandcampingdoonbeg.com as Jamie was most welcoming and his site next to the beach was easily the best we have stayed at on the tour. They even played soft music in the toilet block.

Nigel was concerned that there was a small water leak in the skylight in the camper and so we called in at a hardware store in Kilrush the nearest big town. Whilst Nigel was there the rest of us jumped out. Nick needed some trousers so we popped into a charity shop where Nick tried on a few items

We wondered down the Main Street and called into Ryan’s Deli & Butchers to get some real Irish Soda bread and met Ryan who was the best type of Irish salesman and we also left with his award- winning scones and sausage rolls too. On returning to the van we decided lamb would make a great dinner so I returned with Monica to buy some of his best Galway lamb which was not cheap ( as he told us) but was some of the best lamb we’ve ever had. Thanks Ryan.

Remaining in the camper we got to the Shannon ferry and took the short trip across the estuary.

On the other side it was not raining so we decided to give the cycling a go. If the weather got damp it was only 12 miles to the next stop, Listowel so it couldn’t be too bad. It wasn’t, only a bit of light drizzle and we successfully got to the monorail station just as the volunteers were opening up.

We had lunch having established that it was ok and then went into the museum. Just as a bit of background the monorail was designed by Frenchman Charles Lartigue. The only other such railway being in Panissieres where three years ago my French friends son Remy and his wife Audrey were married. The following day they took us on a walk along the site of the track, although that monorail did not ever enter service following an accident which disgraced Lartigue. He did not recover and his family would not attend the reopening of this line because they still did not want to be associated with it.

If you are interested to read up further on this fascinating engineering oddity which ran from 1888 to 1923 when it was damaged beyond repair in the Irish civil war, check out their website http://www.Lartiguemonorail.com

This is where after a cup of tea we thought it’s only 25 miles to Tralee that will be ok even if it’s a bit wet. It was a full headwind and non- stop rain so we did not really stop or take any photos because we were keen for it to end Talking was at a minimum as Chris and I followed peloton leader Nick. The only respite being a short stretch of greenway on an old railway line the last km into Tralee

A swift shower and then Ryan’s magnificent lamb steaks were a good end to the day

One reason we could look to risk this very damp leg was because we are in Tralee for two nights looking to restock and get the washing done with Chris & Nick taking a respite from the tents at a hotel in the centre of town

Whilst we had only a relatively short day of cycling we still had a great day enjoying some great Irish hospitality. The weather is set to remain moist so we may have more days like this to come.

Doonbeg

0 Miles

We sort of knew it was coming but had hoped the weather forecast was wrong as it has tended to be. However no such luck as the day dawned wet and stayed that way except for a couple of hours. When it stopped the wind was so strong you could barely stand up. We did not cycle today.

Having cleared out of our very expensive and nothing more than satisfactory campsite at Salthills near Galway City, the first place we had to go to was the tyre shop to get the puncture repaired. This was done in no more than 15 minutes and only cost €20. Next was a stock up trip to Lidl which gave Chris,Nick and me the chance to see Nigel and Monica in action for the first time in a trip

So as not to miss out on the cycling route we then followed it closely in the camper across the different landscape of the Burren with its limestone pavements of clints and grykes

The rain did not give up so the van was the right option but it would have been so much more spectacular in the sun. The fields were full of varied flowers particular to this area and I did manage to escape to capture a few as above.

We called in to visit this dolmen which was attended by a friendly chap standing in the rain under his brolly. Nigel got talking with him and almost half an hour later soaked to the skin Nigel was followed as he walked away defeated. The first time this trio have ever seen Nigel out talked!

Moving on from the Burren, which really was worth the visit, we moved on to see the Cliffs of Mohar. After Dublin they are the most visited attraction in the whole of Ireland. Having parked up and had lunch we went to the visitor centre which told the history of the site.

The rain ceased for a bit so we went out and there was enough visibility to see the cliffs and also watch the seabirds negotiate the cliffs. Puffins , Razorbills and Kittiwakes whose aerobatic skills were particularly impressive as the wind had by now picked up and it was genuinely blowing a hoolie. In many ways even more dangerous to cycle in.

Nick Corner

On the way out passing through the visitor centre we made Nick, under extreme pressure, stand next to a picture of his favourite bird. We are not sure if it was a real smile or a grimace.

Nick also sent me a photo of the steps at the visitor centre at the Cliffs of Mohar as they had coral and shell fossils in them. We decided that they didn’t make the cut but I can publish it if I get enough interest. Please let me know

The campsite at Doonbeg was the opposite of the last one with helpful owners and reasonable prices. A full four man effort putting up the tents in rapid time in the rain helped get us ready for a salmon dinner followed by mixed melon. The rain and wind continues as I write this, with little let up expected for another couple of days Chris has his cycling gear ready to put on first thing tomorrow morning as he is determined h that we can cycle to the ferry across the Shannon. In truth it will depend on the wind.

In the end a non- cycling day but not a bad day as we have been able to see some more of this beautiful but damp country.