Circuit of Ireland 2022 is on!
Posted by nbjtours on March 13, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. Tagged: cycle touring, Cycling, Eire, Ireland, NBJTours. 1 Comment
I am pleased to announce that an extended version of the 2020 Circuit of Ireland Tour is back on. The scheduled tour is due to begin in Belfast at the Titanic Dock on Friday 17 June finishing after an anticlockwise tour of the Emerald Isle on Saturday 2 July at the Guinness Brewery in Dublin.
Once again the three cyclists Nick, Chris & Neil will be supported by Nigel and Monica in the Rimor camper which will be sporting a new Fiat 500 green coloured body. Nigel has spent much of the past two years totally rebuilding and enhancing the living quarters. You will be blown away by what he has achieved in his barn I assure you.
Further updates will follow but I hope that you will be able to join us in the next adventure and let’s pray for not too much rain…..
Ireland 2022 Route & Highlights
Posted by nbjtours on April 2, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Here is a link to an interactive map of the proposed route. All being well we will be starting day one from Belfast on Friday 17 June.
http://www.scribblemaps.com/maps/view/Ireland/PulvDkApXf
The Camper will be Ready
Posted by nbjtours on May 25, 2022 Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 7 Comments
At the end of our last trip in June 2019 which finished in the South of France on the Mediterranean. Nigel was concerned that the floor of the erstwhile Rimor camper was giving way
Investigations sadly showed that not only the floor but other major parts of the living quarters were also on their last legs as water had got in and rotted the wooden parts of the construction.
Well as an extremely resourceful fellow and with the pandemic restricting activity Nigel totally disassembled the camper and constructed a 100% new rear section in fibreglass using nis inherited boat building skills So three years later the whole of the bodywork apart from the cab has been made by Nigel.
Now sporting a fetching FIAT 500 pale green the rebuilt Rimor is officially known as a Broomewood 21 but I suspect we will be looking out for “Broomey” as it blends into the Emerald Isle next month.
Although the new bodywork encompasses the same internal layout Nigel has made the shower room a full wet room and added nice upgrades such as solar panels on the roof, USB charging points and integral steps to help climb into the bunks! A simply awesome achievement and testament to his skill and craftsmanship.
Monica has promised some of her famous salads and no doubt will find us some good bakeries for our coffee and cake stops. Training for Chris, Nick and me has been picking up recently so hopefully we will be ready to go.
Roll on Belfast on 17 June.
A Titanic Start
Posted by nbjtours on June 17, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 3 Comments
Three years after our last adventure through France and fully two years after this route was originally completed and booked we finally were back on the road.
Once again Chris, Nick & Neil on their bikes supported by Nigel and Monica in the revamped camper which draws complimentary glances wherever it goes in its distinctive FIAT 500 green
It is fair to say that everyone was a little apprehensive of the trip with the cyclists perhaps not as fit as before because of COVID or in Nick’s case not having sat on a bike for a Month because of work and Nigel keen to know that his masterpiece was ma enough for the job.
The camper left Hadlow on Thursday morning in the heat wave that was hitting the SouthEast and we had a pretty trouble free drive to Cairnryan to pick up the ferry to Belfast and although we were booked on the early Friday crossing we were persuaded at the port to board the 23.30 boat which got into Belfast at 02.30 am.
As we arrived the rain began but we were able to park up and get some sleep before collecting Chris and Nick from the airport as they flew up first thing. The plan was coming together
It was always our intention to start at the Titanic Dock and with the rain hammering down a full visit was in order. It was an interesting and at times emotional tour knowing the enormous loss of life that took place.
The visit allowed the rain to move on and our shorter day of cycling of only 28 miles could start in the dry.
We left Belfast on good cycle tracks avoiding the busy streets and were out alongside the attractive Belfast Lough. Nick disappointed that there were no Vultures although we did spot some Alpacas later which calmed his Peruvian roots!
Turning off the shore path we then climbed for around 4 miles initially on an attractive cycle path before quiet roads and some bumpy farm tracks over the hill which gave permanent views of Belfast and the iconic Harland & Wolff ( H & W) cranes
All was green and certainly the Emerald Isle has begun how we envisaged – a little damp , hilly but attractive. Passing through one town the flags of the Ulster Volunteer Force were prominently in evidence so we were keen to move on trusting that our very non correct Spanish and Portuguese jerseys caused no offence to anyone.
Here Chris is seen coming through an unconventional and unexpected detour. Honestly the no entry was not at the other end but the bit of off roading always makes these trips more fun! Coming down off the hills towards Larne we went through this attractive village of Gleno. The gradient making us happy we were going down rather than up
A final view of Larne Lough before we headed into town to meet the camper with as ever Nigel and Monica set up, beers ready and supper including the magical beetroot and apple salad meant that we had not forgotten how to get these tours underway.
The camper did not miss a beat and the shorter mileage enabled the rain to be avoided and got the cyclists into the groove making our first day a success.
Whilst not outstanding it looks as though we may get a couple more dry days to enjoy certainly the Northern Irish part of the trip. The Causeway Coast and meeting up with an old cycling pal are set to be the highlights of the trip tomorrow as we look to start ramping up the miles.
View Tax & Old Friends
Posted by nbjtours on June 18, 2022Edit This
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Portrush
Day Two 76 Miles 5046ft
We all know that you don’t get something for nothing and that is not only true for goods it is also mostly the case for a good view as it requires some effort or energy to get higher up to look out upon a great vista. Today there were plenty of great views but equally plenty of climbing. Nick explained that this effort is known as the View Tax. I have a feeling that Ireland is going to charge a lot of tax over the next two weeks whether the weather allows a view or not! Today the tax was certainly worth paying thought the aching muscles may not agree!
Over the last 15 years or so cycling has brought us a great deal of pleasure and friendship since our first Hadlow Tower to Eiffel Tower event back in 2007.
Mike Harriott who was one of our original team until 2013 moved to Northern Ireland with his wife 5 or 6 years ago so we were really pleased to be able meet up with him at his holiday apartment in Portballintrae and share some memories. He even wore the Le Puy cycling top we were presented the first time we cycled there in 2008. Cheers Mike.
The morning dawned cool and windy but no rain so we were able to get away smoothly at 8.30 to start the first real day of the trip.
Leaving Larne we headed north along the A2 coast road ( so much nicer and quieter than it’s namesake in Kent). What a great road, it hugs the coast with barely a hill, the only difficulty being the incessant westerly wind which hit you in the face each time we went round a headland.
Stopping briefly at a small town en route we noticed this van . We thought he had died. All we can say is that we are not sure how he markets himself as he may be struggling for clientele!
After around 20 flat miles we were treated to a couple of super steep ramps of around 20% coming out of a town before the turning away from the sea and heading inland on a 5 mile climb to where a belated coffee stop awaited.
Heading towards the climb we just missed a sharp shower and were lucky to only get a few spots of rain on four or five occasions all day.
By this time Nick’s Full NI Breakfast from his B&B had worn out and very unusually for the teams mountain goat halfway up the hill he ran out of puff and needed encouragement to the coffee stop which was just before we started on the long descent into the westerly wind. Having consumed three pastries plus a top up he declared that he was ready once again and was back to form for the rest of the day.
This detour was to see the avenue of Beech Trees near Armoy known as the Dark Hedges made famous by Game of Thrones. Traffic is banned but we were able to cycle along amongst the fans of the show rather underwhelmed.
Heading North and back to the coast at the attractive seaside town of Ballycastle we then turned left to head straight into the westerly wind to run along the north coast observing the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge before stopping for lunch .
Both Chris and I felt the constant up and down accompanied by the headwind reminded us of the final stages of LEJOG where the road from Bettyhill runs to John O’Groats. Whilst roads have typically been very quiet this is the holiday coast full of mobile home sites so was the busiest road we cycled on all day but still so much quieter than home.
Continuing into the wind our next stop was the inspirational Giant’s Causeway where we decamped from the bikes and with Nigel and Monica enjoyed some time walking down to see the famous basalt columns Although windy the sun and blue sky allowed the visit to be enjoyed even more.
After remounting Nigel and Monica set off to set up camp which was ten miles or so up the road whilst we had a short detour to catch up with Mike before continuing on the final pedal to the campsite in the ever cooler temperatures and strengthening wind,but managing a quick stop to check out Dunluce Castle.
This evening our campsite is opposite the Royal Portrush Golf Club home of the first Open to be held in NI. As ever upon arrival Nigel had the tents up and Monica had steaming plates of sausages and mash ready to feed the exhausted cycling trio. The first full day was successfully completed.
Malin Head at Speed
Posted by nbjtours on June 19, 2022Edit This
Malin Head
Day Three
7 Miles 735 ft climbed
Ok so we have to admit to a bit of cheating here but today was originally not going to be on the bikes at all. However, having found ourselves at our overnight stop with the sun shining we thought that we had better make the best of it and from the most northerly inn in Ireland we cycled to its most northerly point
Malin Head is not named after the French for evil ( it is Irelands windiest and sunniest place) but is a corruption of the Gaelic Malainn meaning hillbrow
The big event of the day in this part of the world was the Donegal International Rally which takes over the town of Letterkenny and attracts young male petrolheads from all over the island of Ireland and is the biggest sporting event in the northern half of the country.
Interestingly speaking to a local spectator he said that being tucked away in the corner of the country partly hidden by Northern Ireland, Donegal is considered semi lawless as people here get on with life and don’t bother with the Garda. Sadly this attracts the young chaps who race their cars around town during the event.
Well as we were here it would have been rude not to go and see it so we left our campsite in Portrush by 8.30 and headed off to Ireland Passing via the NorthWest 200 motorcycle race track and some heavy rain showers we were happy that we were not riding this morning.
Irish tarmac rallying is big as there is only one race circuit in the country so speed demons rally rather than race aided by the fact that it is easy to close roads to do this here The atmosphere in the crowd was quite something as we all walked down to the stage and clambered into fields lining the corner. There must have been around 1000 people just here in this remote part of the world. The cars then entertained popping and banging their way round with the venerable Ford Escort still being the most numerous and spectacular. This was the 50th anniversary of the rally and they had a number of ex winners including Finnish world rally champion and MEP Ari Vatanen having a go in their old cars.
Having seen the stage we then walked back to enjoy lunch of frankfurters and baked beans in the camper expertly cooked by Nigel at Monica’s suggestion.
Luckily the weather had improved although remained cold with a strong northerly wind, so after replenishing the food cupboard in Derry, when we arrived at the most northerly inn in Ireland the choice was made to do a bit of cycling. This also reduced the cycle tomorrow morning before having to get a ferry.
Malin Head was windy and beautiful but the northerly wind had made the decision to wear full cycling tights and three layers a good one. Having wandered round the head we then decided to visit The Wee House of Malin as Nick was keen to see what it was all about.
The road down was steep at 25% and this rather pathetic edifice was all that greeted us surrounded by heras fencing. It was possibly a mistake to descend but following Chris’s lead Nick and I also made the climb back up successfully
The sea is so clear here and after another hearty meal of steak , potatoes and coleslaw washed down with Strawberries and Cream all five of us had a quick walk to the beach followed by a Guinness in the bustling pub. Chris and Nick staying in their B&B and the camper parked opposite.
It is almost the longest day of the year and with the sun in vision we were lucky enough to see it going down into the sea at 10.11 to end another successful day.
Kylie Minogue
Posted by nbjtours on June 20, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Portnoo
Day Four
75 miles
4039ft
Lucky, lucky, lucky is one of the Australian chanteuse most famous songs and today we were all three luckies. Lucky with the weather, the scenery and the route.
Starting on Malin Head the first third of the ride today took us across the Malin peninsula to the Lough Swilly Ferry The next third to lunch was north of Letterkenny through agricultural land before the final leg took us into wild Ireland over the mountains and to the west coast. All this apart from the final 5 km was under a blue sunny sky. Although the forecast is not good for the rest of the week the fact that today was so good should ensure we retain some good memories of the trip.
Leaving Mali Head at 7.30 early enough to catch the first ferry we ran alongside Trawbreaga Bay to the market town of Malin before crossing the bridge and heading up and over the peninsula to Buncrana to catch the ferry across Lough Swilly.
Whilst there was not much traffic really, it was the busiest road we rode on, as there were plenty of mummies trying to get their kiddies to school on time. We guessed that the school served the much wider community as we came in to town.
Getting to the ferry at Buncrana Nigel had set up coffee and pastries outside next to the van. Monica was concerned that we’d get guzumped on the ferry so Nigel moved the van to the front of the queue leaving us sitting in the middle of the quay!
Getting on the ferry Nigel was concerned that the rear of the camper would ground out but the crew were readily prepared with planks of wood to put under the wheels. They did a good job and getting the camper on the ferry took longer than the all the rest of the passengers combined ( three cars and three pedestrians). Monica need not have worried about room on the ferry!
Out of Buncrana we ran next to Lough Swilly on a nice flat road, before then turning off onto some quieter rolling lanes surrounded by farms with many lazy cows that Chris was concerned were always sitting down.
Lunch was to be taken near Church Hill which was near to where we had watched the rally the day before and one of the reasons for not riding yesterday.
As usual Nigel and I had agreed the approximate location of the next stop and as ever he surpassed himself with this set up! Whilst we did not have any wine the bread was broken respectfully.
We were additionally lucky that we were able to eat outside, possibly for the only time this week.
The first two legs had been great but.the best was saved for last. Leaving the attractive church over looking Lough Garten, as we rode on the houses reduced and the farms disappeared. We then found ourselves climbing over the R254 pass. A long gentle climb into the mountains.
Looking down
The main climb which was about 4 miles long was then followed by almost ten miles of downhill reversing the sequence. Starting with moorland , then derelict buildings before starting to see farming again. The number of old (potato famine related) and newer derelict buildings was surprising but we understand that this is the least inhabited part of the whole of Ireland
About halfway down but still in the middle of nowhere we came across this old gentleman walking his 1930’s bike so we stopped to ask if he was ok. We were not sure what he said ( and we did ask three times) or if he understood as the only noise we heard was “aie” and he was happy to see us move on.
Finally the river we had been running down started to open up as we approached the sea and whilst it still remained sunny we could see the clouds approaching
Not wanting to disappoint right at the death we even found a cycle path to run on for a few kilometres. Ireland measures in kilometres and Vauxhalls are Opels so we are really in Europe here.
The sun disappeared behind the cloud for the last 5 km but as we got to the right campsite we were pleased to see that pale Green camper waiting and welcoming us to our destination. As ever the beers were ready and it was time to relax at a relatively early 4pm.
Once again Nick put Chris through his warm down paces. It does truly look like Santa has fallen out of his sleigh.
Taking a shower the toilet block was in the process of renovation. Strangely it had four unisex rooms comprising basin , loo and shower. Two had been completed and the other two were in the process of being done. The cubicle I used had a workman’s extension cable plugged in and he was operating his angle grinder just outside the door!
Nigel’s Thai curry, again followed by strawberries and cream were well appreciated by three very tired cyclists who were able to reflect on one of those cycling days that are memorable for all the right reasons
The rest of the week looks as though we may have burned all our matches on one day as it has started to drizzle as I write this and the forecast is more of the same or worse Let’s hope they are wrong. At least we have this day safely in the locker and our view tax was paid with pleasure!
How’s it going there?
Posted by nbjtours on June 21, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Day Five
Strandhill nr Sligo
84 miles
5063ft climbed
You have to remember not to answer the question in detail as in these parts this is the greeting meaning hello. So a hi is fine. Most folks are very friendly and Nigel needs no invitation to talk to someone, so when we arrived at the first stop of the day a local young mum with her son Freddie was chatting with him next to the camper. Later on with Chris and Nick we were discussing which route to take and a guy stopped and asked if we were ok. He then offered his advice and we were able to avoid the worst of the hill but still see something interesting.
Drivers have been respectful of us cyclists waiting behind or giving us space so we have felt very welcome in this part of world.
Waking up this morning the forecast was not wrong and today began very soft with a fine drizzle in the air. Breakfast in the camper was enlivened by the sight of a couple of hares bounding round the campsite. Chris was sure that one was the size of a big dog!
Starting promptly at 8 am we set off straightaway uphill and for a while the rain increased so we had to stop to put on our waterproofs
There was quite a bit of climbing early on in the damp as we went over the headland. The road here was new in parts and we reckon that the majority of men are employed tarmacking as we must have passed 6 or 7 roadworks in progress. If not in roadworks the job is some form of gardening , mowing the lawn or more likely using a petrol strimmer clearing out the weeds. We lost count of how many men we saw doing this. This is in part due to the fact that most houses have large grass lawns in front of them and the house appears to be set back at the rear of their plots.
If anything the rain increased on the way down and we got wetter – the only saving grace was that it was not cold and the wind had dropped.
As we came into Donegal the rain eased and the roads appeared dry so perhaps the town has its own microclimate. Thankfully we warmed up and dried out quickly.
Our breakfast stop was arranged just after Donegal and we saw the camper as ever so safely completed leg one. Nigel surpassed himself here as when we started coffee and pastries Monica said “stop that’s dessert you have scrambled eggs and frankfurters first!“. Needless to say we did demolish the lot but reckoned the extra weight slowed down the hill climbing during the second leg.
Pleasingly the weather started to brighten up and we got no more rain and even sunburned though it was not really sunny. This leg was through rolling fields close to the sea with the verges full of flowers including loads of orchids, often the hedges being of naturalised fushias. I will endeavour to do a flora corner to cover all the interesting and pretty flowers later on the trip.
Lunch was at Mullaghmore Head, infamous as the place where the IRA blew up Lord Mountbatten in 1979. He owned the nearby castle, but couldn’t afford to keep it so let it out and used it as a holiday home.
We came to Mullaghmore to check out my work colleague Danni’s aunt Eithna’s famous restaurant ( pronounced Etna as in the Mt) but sadly they got COVID just before the visit so they had to close it but it still makes a colourful picture. Instead we had a picnic lunch outside just along from the village in these terrific surroundings.
After lunch we cycled round the headland enjoying the views.
The last leg saw us approach Gleniff Horseshoe but this was where we chatted with the nice fellow who suggested we just check out the mill rather than cycle the steep circuit round. This saved us 4 miles and a lot of sweat. We cycled there and had an enjoyable walk round
Leaving the mill we ran either side of the busy main road on smaller lanes mostly designated as part of the Wild Atlantic cycle way passing below the impressive peaks Benwiskin and Benbulbin
The small roads were fine but often had grass so thick down the middle it needed mowing and probably was. Whilst going along these roads Nick and I heard Chris cry out in pain so we both came to an emergency halt. Chris had caught a bee in his mouth and whilst spitting it out quickly he must have got stung on his tongue. Luckily the bee cannot have had time to properly inject his poison so after five minutes or so Chris and his tongue were back to normal. Crisis averted.
The only downside of the smaller roads is that often you get short sharp climbs and the last one as we approached Sligo was particularly nasty causing Chris and me much grief. Nick who had started the week perhaps a little off peak form has certainly rediscovered his climbing legs and mostly led the peloton all day apart from the last five miles when his Garmin had died and he had less of an idea than usual of where to go.
Sligo was very busy and we had to negotiate across three lanes to turn right to find our road to Strandhill passing a fully laden cyclotourist for the second time today.
Arriving safely at the campsite once again we did manage to have an end of day celebratory beer outside with some Spanish salty snacks but the fresh wind off the sea meant pork chops and mash was consumed indoors . The beach walk today was brief and surprised us as we watched an 8pm surf school lesson.
Completing day five we are now properly into the tour and backsides and muscles are just a little sore. The weather has not been too unkind and fingers crossed it stays this way. Tomorrow sees us heading west into Connemara with only 3000ft of climbing expected so a relatively flat day.
Being silly and being amazed
Posted by nbjtours on June 22, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. Leave a comment
Day six
Connemara
95 miles
3756 ft climbed
Today was another great day. The highlight without exception has been the amazing scenery that we have enjoyed since entering Connemara on the third leg of the day, no doubt aided by the appearance of the sun but stunning none the less.
When you get three chaps together it doesn’t matter what age they are the normal thing to do after a while is to regress back to boyhood. Today we had plenty of opportunity to muck about during the first two legs and these are a couple of the photos we were able to publish.
Once again the day started soft with light drizzle in the air as we left the campsite. It was not quite as heavy as yesterday but still made the first hour and a half damper than we would have liked.
The route initially took us on a mix of small roads linking through to mostly cycle paths on regional roads which allowed slightly faster riding than usual. We went through adjacent towns Colooney, Coolaney & Cloonacool which must be most difficult for the postman Coolaney being a very attractive one horse town with the high street having had two on the pavement fuel pumps one of which remains in use.
We then took the low road which was a quiet back road running behind the hills which had farms dotted along it, less than half of them being occupied as above. About half way along this twenty mile stretch of road was a football pitch complete with stadium. It looked superb and as usual someone was cutting the grass. We really wondered where they found any players as there were simply no houses around.
After 30 miles a standard breakfast of croissants and coffee was taken at the entrance to a part completed house and we set off on the next leg
Having missed out on the fun of a cycle path yesterday the route had two bits of fun added today. Firstly a five mile section of Greenway into Castlebar which was a mostly gravel path running beside a river that Nick claimed was full of otters!
Then following Castlebar we had a real rough track to negotiate for a couple of miles which had followed an EU supported bypass in the process of being built.
The rough track ran next to an area where they still cut peat for fuel and we were able to see the little stooks they put up to dry them out.
The only issue with taking the track was that it by passed the camper which had lunch although our stop which we took in Aghagower was prettier. As ever Nigel was gracious in moving on to us and we had our picnic in the shadow of the ruined church and 11th century tower.
We agreed with Nigel to meet again at the campsite and leaving, little did we realise the stunning scenery that we were about to witness.
It started when we saw this mountain and then as we moved off the small roads we hit the N59 which lead to Connemara. Although we had not really felt it, we had been climbing all of the second leg so then had a downhill section of around 8 miles to one of the three fjords in Ireland – Killary. Who knew Ireland had fjords.
The sun coming out helped but every turn brought a new and beautiful vista. We honestly have put this leg up as one of the prettiest we have ever done on all of our trips.
Of course the sun helps but the photos simply do not do justice to the incredible landscape.
At one viewpoint we chatted with an Irish couple from Dublin who said it was better than Kerry and interestingly the lady from the campsite said that although Connemara has similar scenery than the more famous ring of Kerry they do not have the number of visitors, so if you come to Ireland bear that in mind.
It is difficult to choose the best pictures but I have included a number that Chris , Nick and I took.
Leaving the main road we turned off to run past a high Lough and came across Nigel on his motorcycle ostensibly out to buy some beer but understandably having a quick play on the twisting roads.
Having seen Nigel we only had three miles to go to our coastal campsite to rest our weary legs and backsides. Following a rapid shower, chicken, potatoes and salad dinner was followed by our compulsory post dinner beach walk which was the most spectacular of the tour so far as we could see sun and rain clouds massing giving a JMW Turneresque quality to the view.
Though now past the longest day the sun actually went down later today than yesterday as we are further West and we can only hope that the scouts camping nearby don’t sing until past midnight, although they are still up as I write this at almost that time!
More fun awaits tomorrow but after a day like today who cares.
The Sky Ride & a Cuckoo.
Posted by nbjtours on June 23, 2022Edit This
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Salthills, Galway City
90 miles
3937 ft
Today’s ride was centred about the sky and the highlights were all around Clifden which was just over 20 miles from our start point.
These included the Sky Drive, a road around a narrow peninsula near the town, and the Alcock & Brown memorial together with the history of the Marconi telegraph station which was just adjacent to their crash site. This involved a lengthy visit which put us behind schedule for the day but it doesn’t really matter as long as we finish during the daylight.
It would also be remiss not to mention that bird that Nick detests so much. We heard it ceaselessly in Spain, Portugal and France on our last two trips so it would have been so upsetting not to have heard the bird of nbjtours on this expedition, even if it causes Nick so much pain.
At some stage last night the scouts went quiet and we all got some sleep. Although the weather forecast said no rain and a nice day today once again the drizzle came in. When I said to the local scout leader that the morning had started softly her response was that it was just morning as it is mostly like this.
For the third day in a row therefore we set off damply as the mizzle descended. The weather stayed on an off like this with an occasional flash of sunlight for the first two legs. The only dry leg being the last one.
The first stage had plenty of short up and down and whilst we got wet we had decided to wait until we got the Sky Road entrance before we added its extra 10k loop. Luckily, as we looked at the peninsula a shaft of sunlight hit the far end so we decided it was worth a punt.
The Sky drive was a pretty diversion off the main Connemara loop road ( more of which later) before we dropped into Clifden itself.
After Clifden we managed a coffee stop just at the entry to the Alcock & Brown information point at Derrigimlagh ( Derry-gim-la) where Nigel and Monica had got to , having already successfully been shopping for pastries.
Although threatening rain again, as we were on top of the moor we thought we’d cycle to have a look at the monument. Although designed for walkers we managed ok and probably saved 45 minutes by doing so.
Information boards gave the history of Alcock & Brown’s first flight across the Atlantic in 1919 fully 8 years before the next successful attempt by the more celebrated Charles Lindbergh.
These boards were set around a three mile walk around the Marconi listening station which ran from 1907 to 1922. This was simply an amazing achievement as they built a power station to power the equipment as well as living accommodation all on site in the peat bog. The locals in town in Clifden were not connected to electricity until 1950! These two incredible achievements show what man can do to overcome challenges positively.
Interestingly the site is of a similar age to the Titanic so was a nice link. It was where the Marconi trained wireless operator from the Titanic came from and learned his trade.
As we spent well over an hour exploring this interesting and well presented site (although only foundations remained of the houses, industrial sites, railways and paths) we advised Nigel that we would be a bit late to lunch. It was after 3 pm we finally made it!
The route then followed round the coast of southern Connemara which whilst less hilly and dramatic than the northern section still remained dotted with islets making the scenery interesting including this pretty harbour at Roundstone.
To reduce the miles and avoid the main road I then managed another nbjtours special track. This time aided by gates at both ends. Just increasing the test of man and machinery.
After this interlude we then had the most dramatic section of the ride as we cut off the peninsula by going straight across a large peat bog valley for seven to eight miles. The scale of the site, where turf cutting was still very much in operation across the the whole valley, was difficult to imagine and is not truly reflected in the photo below.
Just after rejoining the main road at a very late 3 pm we found the camper in this attractive spot and the sun had even come out for us to enjoy our belated picnic.
With still 30 miles to go mostly on the main road we agreed a quick tea stop before the end. Rejoining the main road another cyclist joined our Nick led peloton for 2/3 miles without a word but was happy to be helped along. Luckily we turned off along a smaller road for a few miles to escape the traffic. It was here when we almost bumped into these horses loose at the roadside that we heard the first Cuckoo of the trip. As ever Nick denied its existence but there was no escaping its plaintive notes.
Rolling back onto the main road we had 20 miles to go and this was probably the busiest and most unpleasant road we have had to cycle all trip. As ever Nick led the peloton to our tea stop with 12 1/2 miles to go
By then I’d had enough of the road and wanted off, so slipstreaming a bus to help overtake a wobbly local cyclist and with a following wind drove the peloton harder the last ten miles to get the campsite near Galway, keeping up with a very slow VW Golf for the last four miles and holding our position in the traffic jam behind it. We all felt a bit better for that.
Having seen so many sheep, a request had been made for a lamb stew which was a fab success thanks to the combined efforts of Nigel & Monica. The rain held off and we still managed to eat outside.
Another good day with plenty seen and some good mileage under our belts. As I write this the rain has begun and sadly the weather forecast for the next two days looks dreadful so it may be that our bottoms have a rest which will be a shame as there is some great cycling to be done. Having seen the cyclotourists carrying all their gear I cannot quite understand why Ireland is a good destination to do this.
Other than protecting our delicate backsides the rain tomorrow will allow Nigel to get one of his new rear tyres checked out as it appears that it has a slow puncture caused by a stone trapped in the tread. Amazingly we have had no such issues with any of the bikes despite the rough and off road cycling
Let’s hope the forecast is not as bad as it looks. Our positive being that we have managed to do the first seven days successfully, even if it has rained a little every day
Rain & Wind Stops Play or does it!
Posted by nbjtours on June 24, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. Leave a comment
Doonbeg
0 Miles
We sort of knew it was coming but had hoped the weather forecast was wrong as it has tended to be. However no such luck as the day dawned wet and stayed that way except for a couple of hours. When it stopped the wind was so strong you could barely stand up. We did not cycle today.
Having cleared out of our very expensive and nothing more than satisfactory campsite at Salthills near Galway City, the first place we had to go to was the tyre shop to get the puncture repaired. This was done in no more than 15 minutes and only cost €20. Next was a stock up trip to Lidl which gave Chris,Nick and me the chance to see Nigel and Monica in action for the first time in a trip
So as not to miss out on the cycling route we then followed it closely in the camper across the different landscape of the Burren with its limestone pavements of clints and grykes
The rain did not give up so the van was the right option but it would have been so much more spectacular in the sun. The fields were full of varied flowers particular to this area and I did manage to escape to capture a few as above.
We called in to visit this dolmen which was attended by a friendly chap standing in the rain under his brolly. Nigel got talking with him and almost half an hour later soaked to the skin Nigel was followed as he walked away defeated. The first time this trio have ever seen Nigel out talked!
Moving on from the Burren, which really was worth the visit, we moved on to see the Cliffs of Mohar. After Dublin they are the most visited attraction in the whole of Ireland. Having parked up and had lunch we went to the visitor centre which told the history of the site.
The rain ceased for a bit so we went out and there was enough visibility to see the cliffs and also watch the seabirds negotiate the cliffs. Puffins , Razorbills and Kittiwakes whose aerobatic skills were particularly impressive as the wind had by now picked up and it was genuinely blowing a hoolie. In many ways even more dangerous to cycle in.
Nick Corner
On the way out passing through the visitor centre we made Nick, under extreme pressure, stand next to a picture of his favourite bird. We are not sure if it was a real smile or a grimace.
Nick also sent me a photo of the steps at the visitor centre at the Cliffs of Mohar as they had coral and shell fossils in them. We decided that they didn’t make the cut but I can publish it if I get enough interest. Please let me know
The campsite at Doonbeg was the opposite of the last one with helpful owners and reasonable prices. A full four man effort putting up the tents in rapid time in the rain helped get us ready for a salmon dinner followed by mixed melon. The rain and wind continues as I write this, with little let up expected for another couple of days Chris has his cycling gear ready to put on first thing tomorrow morning as he is determined h that we can cycle to the ferry across the Shannon. In truth it will depend on the wind.
In the end a non- cycling day but not a bad day as we have been able to see some more of this beautiful but damp country.
Wet Wet Wet & Monorails
Posted by nbjtours on June 25, 2022Edit This
Tralee
38 miles
1752 ft climbed
Today saw no improvement in the weather and initially it was too windy to cycle next to the coast. As today was only meant to be a short day interrupted by a ferry ride we decided to camper the 14 miles to the ferry.
The highlight of the day undoubtedly being the visit to the Lartigue monorail in Listowel where the four volunteers running the whole thing could not have been more willing, including a former Irish footballer & Minister in The Irish Government, Jimmy Deenihan, who had been instrumental in getting US and EU funding to get the project off the ground.
Although it was raining, following the visit we then decided to continue cycling as there were only 25 miles to go it may not have been a wise idea as the rain and wind worsened. It was one of the grimmest cycles we’ve ever done. However it was a challenge to which we rose.
We were somewhat reluctant to leave http://www.strandcampingdoonbeg.com as Jamie was most welcoming and his site next to the beach was easily the best we have stayed at on the tour. They even played soft music in the toilet block.
Nigel was concerned that there was a small water leak in the skylight in the camper and so we called in at a hardware store in Kilrush the nearest big town. Whilst Nigel was there the rest of us jumped out. Nick needed some trousers so we popped into a charity shop where Nick tried on a few items
We wondered down the Main Street and called into Ryan’s Deli & Butchers to get some real Irish Soda bread and met Ryan who was the best type of Irish salesman and we also left with his award- winning scones and sausage rolls too. On returning to the van we decided lamb would make a great dinner so I returned with Monica to buy some of his best Galway lamb which was not cheap ( as he told us) but was some of the best lamb we’ve ever had. Thanks Ryan.
Remaining in the camper we got to the Shannon ferry and took the short trip across the estuary.
On the other side it was not raining so we decided to give the cycling a go. If the weather got damp it was only 12 miles to the next stop, Listowel so it couldn’t be too bad. It wasn’t, only a bit of light drizzle and we successfully got to the monorail station just as the volunteers were opening up.
We had lunch having established that it was ok and then went into the museum. Just as a bit of background the monorail was designed by Frenchman Charles Lartigue. The only other such railway being in Panissieres where three years ago my French friends son Remy and his wife Audrey were married. The following day they took us on a walk along the site of the track, although that monorail did not ever enter service following an accident which disgraced Lartigue. He did not recover and his family would not attend the reopening of this line because they still did not want to be associated with it.
If you are interested to read up further on this fascinating engineering oddity which ran from 1888 to 1923 when it was damaged beyond repair in the Irish civil war, check out their website http://www.Lartiguemonorail.com
This is where after a cup of tea we thought it’s only 25 miles to Tralee that will be ok even if it’s a bit wet. It was a full headwind and non- stop rain so we did not really stop or take any photos because we were keen for it to end Talking was at a minimum as Chris and I followed peloton leader Nick. The only respite being a short stretch of greenway on an old railway line the last km into Tralee
A swift shower and then Ryan’s magnificent lamb steaks were a good end to the day
One reason we could look to risk this very damp leg was because we are in Tralee for two nights looking to restock and get the washing done with Chris & Nick taking a respite from the tents at a hotel in the centre of town
Whilst we had only a relatively short day of cycling we still had a great day enjoying some great Irish hospitality. The weather is set to remain moist so we may have more days like this to come.
The Full Irish
Posted by nbjtours on June 26, 2022Edit This
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Tralee
30 Miles
1857 ft climbed
Today was always programmed to be a catch up day allowing us to potentially rest, get the laundry done and rest ourselves before the second half of the trip.
As usual Nigel and Monica got ahead of the programme and managed to get two loads of smelly cycling gear washed and dried yesterday evening. The weather continued to be damp and after a discussion we decided that a full circuit of the Dingle peninsula was chancing it but we would like to do the Conor pass. As the wind was a westerly it made sense to drive out to Dingle and then cycle back. Stopping for breakfast at Dingles Lidl we set off up the hill straight away afterwards.
At least it wasn’t raining and there were even a couple of small breaks in the cloud so we saw a bit of sun.
The climb was a comfortable 6 km long but never too steep and we were able to catch some good views over the Dingle peninsula.
After coming down the pass we then had a ten mile run along the coast to a lunch stop. With Nick leading the peloton we completed the ten miles in under half an hour thanks to a tailwind all the way. We reckon our fastest consistent ride ever.
The rain started again but we decided to get on the bikes for the final dash home. Nick as ever leading the peloton. The only criticism Chris and I had was that he decided to veer off the rout to a non existent viewpoint which required we climb back up to the main road. We then refused detours apart from a brief stop to see this windmill on the outskirts of Tralee we sped home in the damp and all had a rapid shower.
Rather than a camper cuisIne Nick & Chris took us out for a slap up meal in the best restaurant in town, Cassidy’s, where we all ate a fabulous meal in particular liking the Tralee Bay seafood chowder. The restaurant had a great old fashioned feel of a good local eatery.
After the restaurant we called into Sean Og’s pub where we enjoyed a proper Irish pub full of punters and singing along to the live musician Great fun to experience a real slice of Irish music and hospitality.
As Nick & Chris were staying in an hotel in town tonight. Nigel , Monica and I walked back to the campsite via Neil Armstrong Way. It s a strange fact that the first man on the moon visited Tralee in 2012 to open a history of space exploration.
The Three Peaks Challenge.
Posted by nbjtours on June 27, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Glengariff
69 miles
4764 ft climbed
Today was always going to be about the climbs. We hoped to do the Gap of Dunloe , Molls Gap and the Healy Pass. I am writing this as torrential rain is pelting down outside but am pleased to say that apart from a short shower early on and a bit of drizzle later we saw more rain but we’re not under it until the tents were safely up.
We initially rolled out of Tralee on some smaller roads and it stayed dry for the first 28 minutes.
The roads were a bit rough and had been resurfaced recently but rather than do the whole road width the paver must have only been 5 feet wide so that’s all they did. We eventually came across them because as usual we ignored the road closed sign but the chaps were happy to stop and guide us past.
These roads led towards the Gap of Dunloe which we could see from afar as a genuine gap in the chain of Macgillycuddys Reeks ( I had to include that as it’s such a good name)
Although the weather continued to be threatening the rain just about held off.
Finally getting to the Gap of Dunloe we had to share the road with lots of tourists and the local jaunty cart drivers. Some less than willing to move over and let you pass.
The whole ride up the gap was a super fun one with different scenery and even a very steep section of up to 19%
Waiting patiently at the top of the hill was the Green camper where Nigel and Monica had set up breakfast which we were only too happy to enjoy having climbed the hill.
Whilst enjoying our coffee and croissants Nigel spotted a lone cyclist pushing himself up the hill on a hire bike and invited him in.
After coffee Daniel from Hervey Bay, Queensland joined us for the next ten miles or so from the top of the gap of Dunloe to the top of Molls Gap Only 21 he is spending nine months travelling most of Europe ( next stop Sicily) before going back to Oz to join the navy and go in the submarines. A gutsy thing to do and we wished him luck. We guess he wanted to see life above the water before taking the plunge.
Having left Daniel who was going back to Killlarney we swept down the descent until we had to turn off down a smaller road where I had a bit of a scare as my handlebars came loose on the bumps so I had to stop to tighten them up. A short stretch of track then followed before we the had a ten mile stint to lunch.
After a brief visit to the stone circle at Kenmare ( two euros to see it was a joke )
The route went along the edge of the Beara peninsula and by the last two miles into the headwind I was struggling, slipping behind Chris and Nick so needed a Karen flapjack moment to fire up for the last couple of miles before meeting the camper at a very picturesque location at this headland.
The weather was due to change with a big Atlantic depression due to bring in some rain so we were keen to give the Healy Pass a go as soon as possible. Whilst the clouds looked ominous apart from a little drizzle the rain held off.
The climb was almost 1000 ft but steady with the gradient only hitting 13% right at the end so it was an enjoyable ride up. Our effort ( view tax) was rewarded with views both ways as the clouds lifted a little. This was more than my mum managed on her visit to Ireland in 1959 when my parents drove to the top on two occasions to get a view and just got cloud.
Looking over the other side the road twisted and turned back on itself and just as we were about to leave we heard the farting like note of Nigel’s motorbike and watched him carefully climb up to us. When he opened his helmet his grin was almost as wide as the opening. He enjoyed himself but warned that the wet roads were greasy so not to take any chances round the bends.
We all had a blast coming down and met up with the camper just after the end of the descent. Looking at the weather coming and having completed the main events of the day we decided that the last 8 miles would be better off in the camper so the tents could be put up whist it was not raining. So we ended the cycling part of the day on a real high. Good decision
A terrific ham, coleslaw and potato dinner was demolished as usual and whilst I caught up on writing yesterdays blog Nick once again came from behind to beat Chris and Nigel at cards despite continuing to profess he knows nothing. The debate on how it was achieved was worth listening to!
Another great day with all three climbs achieved and some fun downhill sections. We all agree the ranking was Dunloe, Healy then Molls although Molls is perhaps the most famous.
The rain which is pounding the camper at present ( I can hardly hear myself think) is due to go on all night but hopefully stop by 9 am. As long as Nick and Chris have not been washed away we are looking to ride down to Mizen Point before calling in on Nigel’s friends later to stay the night.
Extra Wild Atlantic Way
Posted by nbjtours on June 28, 2022Edit This
Mizen
48 miles
3278ft climbed
Whilst this circuit of Ireland has quite often hugged the coast and used parts of the official Wild Atlantic Way an NBJTour always has a route that is designed for its riders. In this way we often have detours to see different sights or climb extra mountains or in today’s version extra gates.
The track along the northern side of the Mizen peninsula was very picturesque and incorporated more than just gate climbing but also a Ford crossing
There were terrific views but perhaps we should not have gone through the “PRIVATE farm track, the bull is dangerous” sign. It did give us a bit of light relief from pounding down the roads, with Chris even cutting a path through the high grass. To avoid any doubt there was a metalled road underneath but we doubt many had been down it for a while. Whilst tempting fate we incredibly have not yet got a puncture between us despite abusing our tyres so, the camper on the other hand…..
Perhaps not quite what I had expected but it is these extra challenges and the small off the beaten track ( literally) routes that helps makes these rides so much fun as we see so much more than if we just blasted down the main routes like many others.
Let’s fess up again before getting into the riding. When we woke up the sun was shining but as we were about to start the heavens opened, so fully togged up and ready to go we delayed the start.
At the same time we saw a Velo tourist pack away and also wait until the rain had gone. Chatting to him he had ridden from Strasbourg to Roscoff to get the ferry to Ireland and was then doing Scotland and England before going back to France in October. His bike weighed a ton and we all decided that it was not for us.
As the weather refused to change we decided to cheat again, so put the bikes in the camper and drove to Lidls in Bantry ten miles down the road where it was not raining. We could see that it stayed raining for some time where we had been staying so it was a good move as to start the day wet was not necessary.
Passing through the attractive town of Bantry we then had an up and down ride into the headwind along the Sheeps Head peninsula. This is a recognised part of the Wild Atlantic Way but not a commonly used option.
Nigel passed us and we agreed to meet at the top of the ridge that acted as the backbone of the peninsula, Seefin viewpoint, which was at the top of the goat track.
Chris & I already knew that Nick would be gunning up the track, as Cabrera means goatherd in Spanish, so had a laugh when two big brown hares decided to bound up the hill for about 500 yards in front of Nick as he launched his attack right at the bottom of the hill.
Although only about 500 ft the climb was steep for some good sections of it, so we were pleased to reach the fully Lidl stocked camper, for coffee at the top. Another good Windy descent took us back to the edge of the sea and this time it was somewhat easier with a following wind.
We had a short stop at a memorial gardens for an Air India plane that was bombed in Iune 1985 and a few other pretty jetties before switching across to the final peninsula to Mizen head.
We then turned back into the headwind to make our way to the head. As I explained earlier taking a quieter route ended up with us enjoying views to ourselves and some fun cycling.
Just round the corner, after a long climb always overlooking the sea, so with a great view, Nigel parked up for our traditional French stick picnic lunch which we took in the camper as although it was sunny the wind was so strong
Just as we left the clouds suddenly descended and the view disappeared, the rain arriving. Doning our wet weather gear, luckily it was only needed for two minutes as the squall passed and the sun was back out again.
There were only another seven miles to Mizen Head but with three miles to go there was a traffic jam into which the camper was stuck. A coach and car had a coming together and neither wanted to move. Coincidentally the coach was carrying cyclists from Sligo about to do Mizen to Malin the Irish equivalent of Lands End to John O’Groats. No one was hurt but it did mean we got to the head before Nigel and Monica who remained stuck for another 20 minutes or so.
The views from the head were spectacular with big waves crashing against the angry looking cliffs, seals playing in the currents and interesting exhibits about the nature, lighthouse and radio station to wander round
We then realised we had stayed much longer then we thought at the head so abandoned the last 14 miles to our final destination for the day.
This was Paul and Ginny’s new house. They having just moved to Ireland from the U.K. following both working in the police force where they had met Nigel. Thanks to them we enjoyed a chilli followed by choice of dessert Apple pie and custard or specaloos cheesecake. No pressure now Nigel!
With Chris and Nick taking over downstairs we were made to feel very welcome and thank them both for their kind hospitality.
We now turn away from the coast as we head inland across Ireland to Dublin. Tomorrow we aim for Blarney. Sadly we expect rain every day again this week so have dried the tents out ready.Waves crashing at Mizen head.
Boreens are the best way.
Posted by nbjtours on June 29, 2022Edit This
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Blarney
70 miles
4034 ft climbed
In chatting with our host, Paul , last night we were discussing the small tracks and roads with the central luxuriant carpet of grass down the middle. A bit like a Brazilian for the road. He explained that they are known in these parts as a Boreen.
Apparently boreen is derived from the Irish bothar meaning cow path ( a track where two cows can pass each other). A bothrin is a little cow path, which is then corrupted into boreen.
We decided that we prefer boreens as there is usually very little traffic allowing safe riding with plenty of discussion.
Leaving our hosts Paul and Ginny in the nice home. ( You can’t fault them for swapping central Sittingbourne for rural west Ireland.) we started off on numerous and very hilly boreens as we left the Mizen peninsula. Whilst tough riding it was very rewarding with some good views including the last ones of the Atlantic we will see on this trip.
At one stage we emerged from all these small roads into the attractive small town of Ballydehob arriving at the peak time of around nine when everyone is in a rush.
Carrying on along many small roads we barely saw a car and at one stage made a navigational error missing a left turn because we thought it was an entry to a farm. In fact it was a freshly laid road where the gravel just had not been properly swept or rolled into the tarmac. This was a brute of a climb at one stage reaching 20% on the loose surface. As the steep part ended we stopped in what looked like the farm yard where numerous dead tractors lay littered around.
We were being helped along by a brisk westerly and for this first leg it was mostly sunny but not warm. In fact we did not need to put a rain jacket on all day. A first for the trip even if it did drizzle briefly a couple of times
The views remained good from the top but there was a change in the scenery to more active agricultural farmland
Just before dropping off the last boreen before coffee to meet the camper we came across the lone church tower of Drinagh standing guard over the spookiest graveyard you have ever seen.
It looked as though it had come straight out of a hammer house of horror film and the graves were about to come alive at any moment. The information board even said that there had been a watch room to stop grave robbers lifting cadavers.
As ever Nigel had found a great place to stop for coffee and croissants. This time next to a lake. We agreed that we would look to try to meet up for lunch near the Michael Collins memorial where he was ambushed and killed as by coincidence it was on the route.
Cracking on after coffee we came to the small town of Ballynacarriga which was incredibly busy as there was a funeral taking place Parking had been laid on at a nearby GAA stadium and there were marshals in hi-viz directing traffic at all the entrances to the village. As well as this it had an impressive castle.
Although I had managed to find the occasional boreen it had been necessary to put the route onto some larger roads which were noticeably busier. We did find the Michael Collins memorial but it was at the side of the road where they were relaying the tarmac in the middle of single alternate line traffic so we did not bother to stop. We found Nigel half a mile up the road waiting patiently as ever.
This last leg of the day was the busiest we have had all tour even though I routed away from main roads where possible. We were therefore happy to get to Blarney Castle all together at the end of the day
Monica had decided that there was no point in Nigel visiting the castle so only Chris Nick and I went. Having expected not much we were pleasantly surprised by the castle and its excellent gardens which were well looked after.
We decided as we were here we had to kiss the Blarney Stone and duly queued up with a load of Americans to do so. Whilst not a frightening experience certainly it was disorienting sitting back up after leaning over the edge.
Going back to the camper and campsite dinner was a minimum of five sausages each with only the second appearance of Monica’s beetroot and apple salad. There was nothing left.
As I write this blog Nick has once again wiped the floor with Chris and Nigel at cards. So much so they think he is probably a card shark.
We have a shorter ride tomorrow to Tipperary and hope that the route has more boreen than road as that is a far preferable way to ride. Fingers crossed the rain may hold off too.
t isn’t really a long way to Tipperary
Posted by nbjtours on June 30, 2022Edit This
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Glen of Aherlow nr Tipperary
58 Miles
3881 ft climbed.
The objective today was to get to Tipperary to be able to debunk the famous World War One song. Checking the song out, apparently it was originally written as it’s a long long way to Connemara. We’ve already been there so that’s ok It was changed because a co-author had family from here and was song about a Irishman missing home written two years before the war began but adopted as it was easy and a popular reminder of home.
We left the campsite at Blarney at 8.30 as usual and whilst not boreens we found smaller unbusy roads and started climbing straightaway. Cycling north we kept crossing the prevailing hill ridges and then dropping back down into the valleys.
Apparently there is a heatwave in continental Europe and the temperature in the Arctic Circle reached 33c. Here the weather was decidedly on the cool side. I think the best we’ve had all tour is 18c and it hasn’t reached 15C all week. Today was overcast with some showers around although we only caught the edge of a couple There was a bit of blue sky though.
The landscape had changed to rolling hills and agriculture, mostly pasture supporting herds of cows. We did see one large field of potatoes all in flower.
Coffee and croissant stop was at Glanworth today. Even though it was only just over 20 miles into the day, we had already climbed almost 2000 ft so were ready for a stop as my legs seemed to have disappeared today
Leaving Glenworth we quickly detoured to see its castle but then on leaving came across it’s abandoned Protestant church and Dominican Friary which we had a quick peak round. Amazing to see so much attached to a very small town.
Our next problem was a closed road. Ignoring the signs we carried on to be met by heras fencing right across the road. We squeezed passed.
Getting through the fencing we came across a massive trench dug across the road but we could get round by going into a farmyard.
Not being sure what it was, we asked the foreman Mickey what it was for. He explained it was a cow underpass. Saying that as farmers work on their own and traffic has increased so much they cannot slow the traffic down so build these underpasses. We saw very little traffic in comparison to the SouthEast but apparently there have been several fatalities in the area. They had a week to do the work which was to cost €100,000. Apparently no subsidies involved but suggests the farmer is doing ok.
The roads allowed some faster riding and as usual there were a number of monuments and plaques to the various uprisings and wars for Irish independence.
Finally we found some boreens today and they were some of the most luxuriant and unkempt ones of the trip leaving only a foot wide track to ride on. At one stage we hit over 30mph doing this.
It was not far to go to Tipperary but we had a lunch stop outside a school which although open looked very under-utilised. Nigel checked that there was no issue having three Lycra clad cyclists camped outside the school having lunch!
Cycling into Tipperary Town it was very busy and we had to use our best traffic conscious tactics. Apart from the photo we took however the pubs seemed closed so we decided to move on.
There were only 6 miles to the campsite but it required us the cycle over the ridge and down into the Glen of Aherlow where we are staying. We effectively finished with the toughest climb of the lot. Cresting the hill we took the shortcut through the Aherlow House hotel grounds. Nick being ever resourceful saw the terrace so the Guinness that we missed was consumed on the terrace of this posh hotel looking across the glen to the Galty Hills
After our Guinness we had a short ride to the campsite. After arriving we fitted a new front tyre to my bike as it was looking a bit worn in places as you could see the canvas. Then a shower and a curry dinner where we were joined by Doug an American hiking the length of Ireland.
Suffice to say Nick once again had the beating of Chris And Nigel to make it three wins in a row for the novice! Beginner’s luck I don’t think so.
The campsite today is in the grounds of a former country house destroyed in the Irish Civil war in the 1920’s but the coachhouse and huge walled garden remain.
Not such a memorable day today as we crossed the midlands of Ireland but it did remind us that this is still a very rural country and large chunks remain depopulated as there continued to be many empty and abandoned houses from across several centuries.
Lawn mowing, road repairs, hedge cutting and of course power strimming remain the most common pastimes we have seen apart from tractor driving of course. As I finish this entry off I can hear the tractor in the field next door spreading muck to remind me the famous odour of Hadlow is only a few days away!
Just two days remain before our intended destination of Dublin and we are hoping for fewer hills tomorrow.
Ruined
Posted by nbjtours on July 1, 2022Edit This
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Athy
35 miles
1105 ft climbed
For our penultimate day in the saddle we had originally looked to do 100 miles but the weather played its part and ruined that possibility, although in reality our legs ( well Chris’ and mine ) were pretty ruined from the amount of cycling we have done over the past two weeks anyway. We were therefore not upset at the lower mileage.
We have come across lots of ruins on this trip whether old farmsteads caused by the potato famine or more recent abandoned farms as mechanisation and city working has taken over. Today we saw more large medieval castles and religious edifices than any other day Incredibly much was down to Henry VIII whose dissolution of the monasteries had a devastating effect in Ireland as well as in England as his reign extended here.
The morning dawned with some sun so we were optimistic of a good day as initially only showers were forecast. Having got up early and dispatched our porridge we were on the road by 8.00 and cracked on on damp but flattish roads.
The roads were pretty quiet and our first leg was only to be 20 miles to the Rock of Cashel. Before we even got there though in the middle of a farmers field surrounded by cows and sheep we came across these unmarked ruins.
Only later did we discover these unheralded ruins are of the biggest abbey complex in all Ireland covering 6 acres. The farmer obviously finds them an annoyance and keeps them low key. In the U.K. there would be a visitor centre tea shop and a £20 entry fee. However it has to be remembered that there are over 700 major religious ruins in the country, so choices have to be made.
We agreed to meet Nigel & Monica at the Rock of Cashel. This is the site of the ancient kings of Munster and purportedly one of the most important architectural historic sites in all Ireland as it incorporates a Hiberno-Romanesque chapel built for King Cormac McCarthy completed in 1134. Although it is dwarfed by the subsequent cathedral built by his enemies the O’Briens who killed him. Entry to the chapel is restricted to 200 persons a day to avoid moisture damaging the frescos so we were lucky to get in.
After the visit we had our coffee and croissants pleased that our early stop had beaten the tourist buses that were now arriving.
We got ready to go out for the next leg to Kells ( a different one to the book of Kells) but having put our cycling gear on and got ready to leave it started to rain. Not only that it remained very cold. We looked at one another and Nick said ‘That’s it I’m not cycling in this ‘ We were not about to argue so Chris and I got back in the camper.
We decided to drive to the next stop , Kells, and see what the weather was like when we got there.
The rain continued but we thought we’d have a good look round. This site was not the tourist bus Mecca like Cashel, as there were only four cars in the car park. Inside the ruins we did find a solitary guardian in his little wooden shed as this site was administered by the state.
An enjoyable visit to this large site The rain continued to fall so we decided once again to go as far as Carlow and reassess. Hooray – as we got to Carlow the rain almost stopped and keen to get back out on the bikes we got Nigel to stop the van so we could cycle the last few miles home.
Stopping for a natural break we noticed this farmer had planted his crops at slightly different times so produced this incredible picture which does not seem real but I can assure you is not photoshopped.
Nick then took the peloton on a speedy 10 km ride into Athy ( pronounced A tie) where we found these cars ready for an event tomorrow. Athy was the base for the first ever international motor race in the British Isles in 1903 when the Gordon Bennett Trophy race was held here because it had straight roads around. At the time there were only 200 Cars in the whole of Ireland so it must have been quite a sight for the locals when the 12 cars set off.
Athy’s most famous son is the great polar explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton who was born and initially educated near here. I popped into the local museum and had a nice chat with the ladies manning the desk Whilst not ever reaching the pole his greatest achievement was saving the lives of all of his men when they got stuck in the ice by guiding an open lifeboat 800 miles and trekking over a glacier to save them. A true inspirational character claimed by the British as one of their own!
As the boys were unable to find an open hostelry Chris was keen to get to the campsite as soon as he could. He powered the last two miles to enjoy a quick beer outside the already erected tents before the rain descended again in force. The second one to be had in the camper. He was doubly rewarded with a spag bol for dinner as he had requested.
Although the game was close Nick once again prevailed at cards making it four wins in a row and easily won the tournament.
Although we had not done much cycling today we at least managed a few miles and took in some fabulous ruins. We may have to get a really early start in to achieve the target tomorrow.
Dublin. The end.
Posted by nbjtours on July 2, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 3 Comments
Dublin
53 miles
1161 ft climbed
All good things come to an end I write this entry as we wait in the camper to board the ferry from Dublin to Holyhead this evening having completed todays riding and dropped Nick off at the airport and deposited Chris and his wife Karen at their campervan hire centre.
The morning dawned strangely sunny and everyone was up super early to take advantage of the pleasant weather. The campsite was playing host to Dublin’s dog agility group so there were a serious number of hounds about. Fortunately after one barking session just before ten they were pretty quiet so we were all fresh for the ride.
We left the site at 7.45. The days riding was the flattest of the tour so far but had three small hills. The first riding was on smaller roads surrounded by hedgerows and was not dissimilar to a flat ride out to Headcorn.
One notable feature we came across was running up Flagstaff Hill in Curragh Camp military base and on to the famous Irish race course at The Curragh where the sheep were grazing freely on the wide open grasslands.
After a coffee and croissant stop which was enlivened by a special guest appearance from some jam doughnuts (as ever courtesy of Lidl’s) we left for the last leg of the tour.
From here I had planned the route to go along the Royal Canal into Dublin to avoid the traffic in the suburbs. It was a good decision and we enjoyed the easy car free flat ride which reminded us of many of the French rides we have made.
As usual there was bit of wildlife along the towpath but unusually we were subject to a couple of attacks, the first a very aggressive Swan who decided that he was less than keen on letting us passed and hissed and went for us as we went.
Shortly afterwards a Heron decided to dive bomb Chris and was less than a foot above him as he rode underneath. We haven’t got a photo of this moment sadly but have another Heron below
As we came into Dublin the clouds grew and so as not to miss out, as we rode through Phoenix Park , a short shower duly ensured that it rained on us every day of the tour
So we could enjoy a bit of Dublin the route then took us both sides of the Liffey before returning to the Guinness brewery. Whilst busy, the cycle lanes assisted our progress and we arrived at our destination before half twelve in what was probably the quickest leg of the tour as it had been so flat.
The queue for the Guinness visit was too long so we met up with the camper and shared the fizz with Nigel and Monica on another successful tour.
Well there it is, the Circuit of Ireland completed. Originally planned in 2019 and booked in 2020 we have completed it in 2022
Ireland is a spectacular country that deserves its moniker as the Emerald Isle in both colour and jewel. With one exception everyone has been great. We have seen and climbed some great hills & passes and paid our view tax to enjoy the sights on offer. I would recommend a visit, perhaps not on a bike but if you pack your raincoat and pick your days you will not be disappointed.
Our highlights were obviously the West coast but as I write this, the Gap of Dunloe, Mizen Head and the fjords in Connemara were the stand outs.
We met up with our old friend Mike and enjoyed the hospitality of Paul and Ginny on the way.
All of us have had a great time. Chris so much so, his wife, Karen, has flown over and they have two more weeks to go and explore what we have missed and revisit the best bits.
Nigel and Monica’s support to let us do this is amazing , and the camper has not let us down at all. It has been a noticeable attraction wherever we have been and Nigel can be rightly proud of his rebuild.
All Chris, Nick and myself have done is to eat, sleep and cycle ( although Nick had the cheek to beat Nigel at cards too ) whereas Nigel has been indefatigable in his cooking, driving, tent erection and positive support whatever the problem or weather.
Subject to the current world situation we hope to be back on the road in September of next year when a warmer country will be our objective. Until then, in the words of the old man we met high in the hills of Donegal. Aie.
nbjtours 