nbjtours

Covilha

0 miles

The forecast today was always marginal but the reality was worse. It rained all night and there was no let up over breakfast

A unanimous decision was therefore taken very early that we would camper the first leg and hope that the weather would clear

Nigel struck camp in the torrential rain and we then moved off to the local supermarket to stock up for the next few days. Living can certainly be cheap here and there were many reasonable bottles of wine under £2. A round of 5 coffees came to only 3 euros. The same as only one cup in Neros.

With the rain not clearing we carried on to the top of the first big climb of the day where we dried the tents in the very strong wind on the side of the mountain. 

The rain stopping and a window in the clouds gave us hope of getting back on the bikes so descending to the nearest town Manteigas we pulled over to get our bikes ready and gear on   Then the heavens opened again. Waiting a further 15 minutes it just got worse and any thought of cycling today was abandoned

The drive up the Zezere glacial valley initially showed how great this climb may have been, however as we got to over 1500m we hit the cloud base and could only see 30 yards ahead in driving rain and wind. The decision not to ride sadly proved correct again. 

Portugal has not been kind weather wise –  last week the temperature here was over 25. Having been planning this trip for over a year you try to think of everything but there are some things you cannot control. Fingers are crossed for tomorrow when we may make further adjustments to our plans as the weather remains unsettled, although we are now descending from the high mountains of Portugal 

Unfortunately the internet connection is poor today so no photos yet.  Now updated see biscuit games below which were followed by some serious cards. 

A frustrating intermittent internet connection today lost the first attempt at the blog so this may be a little rushed. I am writing this again with a thunderstorm raging overhead and the noise of the rain on the camper roof making it hard to hear each other.

The Three Legs today were magnificent , wet and abandoned in that order. I will explain later.

After a few showers overnight the day dawned brightly. The first leg started down from our beautiful campsite along some quiet country roads.  although we did end up on a cobbled main road for 3 miles which shook our bikes like crazy.

Following our campsite owners instructions  to the letter we then found the magnificent part of the first leg. The Ecopista Tamega , a former railway line running along the river Tamega. 

The views from this route were superb looking out over the river

The great thing about the cycling on old railways is of course the lack of gradients but to see the work that the engineers had to do to build this particular route building cuttings, viaducts, bridges and tunnels was humbling. To think that now it is a not particularly frequented bike path must be disappointing for them but not for us.

Apart from one 5 km stretch which was nicely gravelled the whole route was super smooth and much better than the cobbled lanes that we kept crossing   In the 18 miles we covered we only saw two other bikes, a few walkers and a courting couple enjoying a bench at one of the many well kept tiled but abandoned stations

We also cycled through what must have been a huge Eucalyptus forest fire for around two miles only a week or so before judging by the smell of soot and eucalypt oils and the lack of any undergrowth.

After coming out of a tunnel we finally reached the end of the track at Amarante. Crossing the river and the mobile fishmonger who had set his van up in the middle we then started the long climb before meeting our breakfast stop a third of the way up, importantly still dry.

Rushing to vacate the restaurant car park before it filled for lunch we then proceeded to climb the rest of 2000 ft to the top as the rain started to fall.

Taking refuge near the top in a bus shelter we saw the big town bus stop, wait for the village bus and then all it’s occupants leapt out with the shopping. It was here an elderly gent approached us explained he was French but Portuguese and 82 you know before shaking our hands and wishing us well

The descent in the rain was unpleasant but Nick and I still averaged over 25 mph for the 5 miles drop. Waiting at the bottom I was concerned that Chris, who was behind me did not appear and was on the verge of sending Nick back up to find him when he appeared being far more sensible in the conditions.

The last 5 miles along the port wine vineyards of the Rio Douro were more pleasant as the rain briefly held off. We even outpaced a giant river cruise boat whose decks were clear of tourists as they sheltered from the rain.

Nigel as promised had waited for us by the river at the entrance to Peso da Regua to serve tea and plan the next step

However after waiting an hour for better conditions a further weather check indicated that in addition to the rain, high winds were forecast so we decided that discretion was the better part of valour and took the camper to campsite option for leg Three. The way the camper was buffetted about over the summit of the next climb confirmed we made the right decision.  This is after all a holiday challenge and we are not totally crazy. We will see what we will cycle tomorrow although if this torrential rain beating down at present does not stop we will not be sure of having any roads left to cycle on.

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Quinta Valbom 84 miles 8322 ft

Today was about getting into Portugal and that we did after climbing to the top of the Portela do Homem, little did we realise at the time there was another 600 ft to the very top of this climb.

The other big thing of the day was the as ever the frequent barking of dogs as we rode past. Chris is no great lover of dogs and every time one starts to move or bark Nick reckons he changes into Chris Froome as the adrenaline kick sees him accelerate past us both.

To get Nick back a stray mutt wandering down a slope went straight for Nick as he was whizzing past at 25 mph or more and making an attempt at his ankle only managed to get a pedal in the head. The dog and Nick both survived unscathed.

The day started as ever at 8.30 sharp and after a long 900 ft climb in the first 5 miles we actually then enjoyed about 25 miles of flat riding across a plain before the next set of hills started.

Taking one of the back roads we were amazed to come across these Roman pillars – we later learnt that the pass we took across into Portugal was in fact used by the Roman military and there were more signs of their via by the roadsides

As usual Nigel”s coffee stop was at the top of a hill and we enjoyed a great view whilst eating our egg and bacon sandwiches. The weather held off all day with a bit of sun on an occasion but mostly overcast and we only had a couple of spots of rain, but we were glad to get down from the top of the pass as the clouds started to gather 

Having passed into Portugal the differences between the two countries were very apparent. Portuguese roads are generally not as good , they have more traffic and every now and again they suddenly become cobbles. 

The descent from the border was enlivened by several hairpins but in the middle there were these fully cobbled versions which we were glad were taken in the dry.

Further down the road opened up and dropping over 2200 ft Nigel was unable to keep up with us as we headed for the next dammed river valley which had been turned into a leisure lake with swanky homes hugging its shores and pedalos moored at the edge. 

A final tough climb warranted a fist pump as it must have averaged over 10% for its 2 km length. The hardest so far.

Portugal seemed busier than Spain and we saw many more people in the fields and about, tending sheep, pushing wheelbarrows or as these guys were doing 

Loading logs onto a lorry across the road. We had to squeeze between the two with the logs hovering above. Just after this I got a puncture with only 4 miles left to go. It’s not often we see haystooks these days. 

There was a drop to the campsite and then a 300 yard 30 % hill were we did get off and push.

The campsite (www.quintavalbom.nl) run by Dutch people with whom we enjoyed a pleasant vinho verde, is as ever immaculate, and the camper and tents are parked below some fantastic orange trees whose fruit is superb.  Chris is hoping for a quiet windless night so he is not bombed by falling oranges.

Apparently it is also the 100th anniversary of the famous Fatima apparition and the Pope is due to visit later this week. We have passed many pilgrims on our travels and whilst thinking that they were going to Santiago de Compostella many are on their way to Fatima which we are staying away from.

Please excuse the spelling and grammar as after a long day and with my eyesight failing and autocorrect putting in words I cannot see you may spot some unusual sentences.

Day 2

Monterroso- Allariz

82 miles 8825 ft climbing

Today was all about gorges and climbing. However as ever on these challenges things did not quite go to plan   Firstly the road we were meant to take did not exist causing us to descend on a  road that was barely used with grass growing in the middle as we descended the side of the valley   

Then after a very late breakfast stop st 1 pm the road we were due to take was closed and whilst on a bike we can usually sneak past it just was not the case today as a 6 ft drop onto sand and no road ahead meant a 5 mile detour – the first half downhill and the second half uphill on a road used for the Vuelta last year. All told these diversions added 10 miles and 1500 ft of climbing leaving Chris and me shattered after a very tough day. They did also as usual add those special sights sounds ( still loads of cuckoos) that makes these trips special.

It all started so well with the initial few miles on quiet country lanes squeezing through tiny villages 

The morning was chilly and luckily had a milky sky keeping the temperature down although by the afternoon it cleared and hit 30 degrees ( the rain is due tomorrow sadly)

We had decided this morning that by setting off early at 8.30 we could have brunch at around 11.00 however because of the terrain and route change we actually did not get what was now lunch of bacon and scrambled eggs until 1pm ! 

Whilst this had taken about an hour and a half longer than we expected the scenery was superb as was the yellow broom lighting up the hills or indeed the white broom which I have not seen before. 

Incredibly even down in the depths of the gorges, whilst there was absolutely no traffic- not a single car passed us for two hours- we did see the odd farmer tending to his grapes on the terraced hillside whilst he played soothing music to them through loudspeakers to make them happy grapes , according to Nick. In the middle of nowhere we also saw an old lady walking with a stick who looked like she had come straight from the Middle Ages with missing teeth and a long skirt. As we rode towards her she moved off the road as if a juggernaut was heading her way instead of three smelly Lycra clad cyclists.

Having run alongside this first gorge we then crossed over the dam to head up to our lunch stop which Nigel located in its usual picturesque spot.

Having then got down onto the gorge we then had to get our way out which was then a 1400 ft climb onto the plateau above made worse by the final 599 ft gradient getting steeper.

By this time both Chris and I were struggling with the constant up and down and Nick was leading the way more than ever. 

We then had the closed road which meant a hastily arranged detour through the village of Trios after the necessary , map, Garmin and Googlemaps consultation.

The one thing the the detour did give apart from sore legs and a sit down in a bus shelter near the top of the climb was a superb view from the terrace from one on the 10 houses in Trios

We found the campsite at around seven and averaged a paltry 11 mph for the day but did complete the most climbing in a day ever.

Tomorrow will see us leave Spain and arrive into Portugal with rain expected in the afternoon-wish us luck as more climbing awaits already tired limbs.

Day 1 Punta de estaca de Bares – Monterroso.

86 miles 8406 ft climbing

Day one certainly started with a bang with over 8000 ft of climbing which Chris and I struggled to keep up with that mountain goat Cabrera as the day wore on Nick ‘s prowess on the hills saw him move further ahead on each hill. That wasn’t the only bang as over lunch what initially sounded like mortar fire and machine guns nearby must have been some very expensive daytime fireworks.

Nevertheless we were all very pleased to arrive safe and sound at the campsite this evening after over 6 hours of pedalling.

Just to prove that we did start from the lighthouse – you can just see it behind the house above and the shot below was as we start along the headland surrounded by the yellowest gorse ever.

We did know that today would be a heavy climbing day but as you can see from the shots below we ended up climbing 2000 ft almost straight away but it did give us the benefit of these super views back to the sea

As ever Nigel waited to find the top of a hill alongside the wind turbines before we got our first bacon butty of the tour.

Nick denied anything to do with the sign that pointed out he was a camp (o ) Casanova

The first two legs today were especially tough and most of the terrain was covered by scented eucalyptus trees although I did spot a few errant English bluebells invading Spanish soil.

We have never seen so many turkey and chicken sheds and there were plenty of cows one which was being hand milked by its aged owner.

Every house had a barking dog which was pleased to see us arrive, thankfully most were on long ropes

The rolling countryside could have been in any Northern European country and only the language here reminds you it’s Spain

There have been lots of birds and we did see 5 kites circling over a farmer in his tractor turning over the grass   A deer did jump out in front of us too and I write this to the sound of a cuckoo in the woods next door.

This view below of Nick powering uphill was what Chris and I got used too.

Blue sky and as ever deserted roads were the norm.

On finally arriving at our site Nick then proceeded to give us a full warm down stretch routine and I can assure you we were not trying to push the camper over

Nigel fired up the barbecue and we enjoyed a well earned sausage and pork chop together with the first and hopefully not the last helping of Monica’s beetroot and apple salad.

Tomorrow is a shorter day and still expected to be dry as we look to hit the Sil gorges.

Well what a start. Knowing that we would have a drive across the northern coast of Spain before the start and arriving late at the campsite I took the provision of booking 6 weeks ago   When we arrived last night the gates were chained shut and only a couple of small dogs came out to meet us. Their owner then appeared and with Nick in full swing translating they explained that they were having works done and had no power so had not opened. She explained that there was another campsite just 2km along the coast , but that too was closed. So here we are wild camping just behind this beach having got the tents up just before dark at 10 last night watching a fabulous sunrise over the sea getting ready for the first day in the saddle. 

The crossing of the Bay of Biscay was very smooth and enlightened by a couple of sightings of dolphins. I am writing this as we speed across northern Spain on the way to our overnight campsite just short of the start. As you can see the three cyclists are taking it easy before the exertions of the next 9 days As usual Nigel is at the helm working harder than us. 

The route for the Iberian Challenge aims to take us from the most northerly peninsula in Spain at Punta de la Estacia de Bares in the Galician region of Spain via the back roads and over the high mountains of Portugal to Portalegre, the historic city of Evora and finally to the southwest corner of Europe at Cape St Vincent after what promises to be 9 very hard days of cycling over some very bumpy terrain.

Team jerseys arrived today, training has been sporadic but there are now only 25 days before Chris, Nick and I start the next challenge riding through Spain and Portugal   As ever we are being supported by Nigel and Monica in their trusty Rimor motor home and from the 7 May I will hopefully be able to keep you up to speed with our progress for the next 9 days over the hills and mountains of Iberia.

I have updated the route information page and once again we will be looking to raise money for The Alzheimer’s Society

Please check out the link on the relevant page or hit https://mydonate.bt.com/fundraisers/neilbrooks-johnson2

Your support vocally and via donating to this good cause really helps those pedals keep turning.

Thank you.

It is exactly a year since I completed my epic cycle from the North to the South of Europe. Today I am pleased to announce the next challenge. This challenge will reunite the Hadlow team of Nick, Chris & Neil that completed the Spanish leg of the journey last year and will once again be ably supported by the indispensible crew of Nigel and Monica in their Rimor camper.

The trip next year will see us ride from the most Northerly point of the Iberian mainland at Punta de la Estacio de Bares in Spain to Cape St Vincent at the bottom corner of Portugal. Although only 800 miles the route will cover the hills of Galicia, climb the highest point in Portugal at Torre, visit the UNESCO heritage city of Evora before emerging in the corner of the Algarve. As usual the route will see us wind our way round the backroads so that we can see and experience real rural Spain and Portugal; that is most definitely off the beaten track.

The date of this challenge is set for 5 – 14 May next year and 3G permitting we will hope to bring you an update on our progress during this adventure.

More details to follow but the next big adventure is due to begin in 12 months time !