Tenth Tour : Route and Dates Announced
Posted by nbjtours on November 29, 2022Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 4 Comments
Well as Chris and. Nick reminded me at the weekend NBJ Tours have been pedalling around Europe on and off (pandemic allowing) for the last 15 years. The first intrepid feat being from Hadlow tower to the Eiffel Tower back in 2007 being waved off by the whole of Hadlow School.
Since then we have cycled at least a bit in 14 different countries. Having surprisingly just reached my sixth decade and desperate not to become old, new challenges must be found.
In my dreams, I had wanted and have planned, a full west to east of Europe, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Black Sea to go with the north to south adventure already achieved, but a mix of not biting off too much and the fact that the route I had in mind finishes in Odessa,Ukraine, made the decision to tone the event down a little easier.
So next year from 1 -18 September the aim will be to cycle through 9 countries taking in 6 capital cities and adding 7 new countries to our list.
Week one will see us start in Mulhouse, France before crossing into Switzerland at Basel, cycling across the country through Zurich onto Liechtenstein and it’s capital Vaduz. The route then takes us over the Alps right the way across Austria, via a tiny bit of Germany to Vienna popping into Innsbruck and Salzburg on the way. We are expecting a few hills and even mountains in the first half of the week before picking up the Danube for the last couple of days into Vienna.
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In week two, after hopefully having a day or twos rest in. Vienna we will get back on the saddles to venture south and east mostly following the Danube. This will take us into four new countries Slovakia, Hungary,, Croatia and Serbia, visiting the capitals of three of these countries too.
The dates are fixed, the fitness levels to be maintained and improved, Nigel, Monica and that stunning green camper are ready as ever as the expedition base . So health,wealth and geo-politics pending our challenge for 2023 is set.
Getting Ready for the next Adventure
Posted by nbjtours on August 4, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 3 Comments
Well there’s less than a month to go and preparations and training have been ramping up these last few weeks.
Chris has been over to France ostensibly to watch Le Tour de France but was able to take in a couple of the mountain passes to up his fitness. Nick has had enough of the dire weather over the last month and disappeared off to Spain for some warm weather training and we are not sure when he’s back. I’ve taken a pause in my work contract and finished on Monday to get some last minute rides in. So the cyclists are nearly there.
Nigel promises that Broomey the camper is fit and rating to go and Monica has promised her famous apple & beetroot salad as well as finding the best pastries across Europe and continuing to try to visit every Lidl’s en route.
Our tour jerseys arrived today courtesy of Kalas whose outfits can be seen on Team GB at the cycling world Champs this week. So if it’s good enough for the pros….
As ever Cadence ( previously Everndens) at Paddock Wood are providing us with a big box of spares which we hopefully won’t need.
Next post will hopefully be at the end of the month as the adventure begins.
We’re off again
Posted by nbjtours on August 30, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 5 Comments
Despite the fact we are on an Irish Ferry we are not revisiting last years Circuit of Ireland but are on our way to the start of the next adventure at Mulhouse in France.
As mentioned in my previous note we are to cycle through nine different countries. Just looking at the monetary logistics of the trip. Six of these countries are in the EU. Five of these six countries use the Euro so we won’t have too many currencies aboard. The Swiss Franc comes in number two with two countries with the Hungarian Forint third as the only EU country not to use the Euro. Serbia has its Dinar which as a closed currency is only obtainable within the country’s borders Cards can still be used but we have some US Dollars just in case palms need to be greased.
So Nigel, Monica and I are travelling down in the fully laden camper in the hope that we can pick up Chris & Nick at Basel-Mulhouse airport around lunchtime tomorrow, air traffic control problems excepted.
For regular nbjtours trip readers you will be relieved to know that Tundra, Monica’s super warm camouflaged top bought in Finland on the first trip will make an appearance as we persuaded her that the top of an Alpine mountain may need it’s thermal protection! Monica has a very serious challenge of her own to undertake this year too, more detail to follow in tomorrow’s blog.
Temerity
Posted by nbjtours on August 31, 2023Edit This
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Chris was very proud of himself today as he felt he used it in the correct context. Temerity is a proper grown up word. It was nothing to do with what Nick had been up to earlier either!
No cycling today but the aim was to meet up with Nick & Chris at Mulhouse-Basel airport. Nigel drove last night until just after midnight and we pulled up in a services for a sleep with just over four hours of driving to go. We drove towards the super blue moon for hours but Monica was disappointed that we didn’t seem to get any closer.
The lads flight was delayed a couple of times due to a technical issue and then a bird strike, so was going to be an hour an a half late This took the pressure of getting to the airport so we made it in plenty of time even with an extra coffee stop.
Having picked up the lads we then had to head off to our first visit to Lidl’s. We left Nigel & Monica to go and do the shopping Monica taking control in her role as tour treasurer and quartermaster as well as our resident doctor.
We of course then had our lunch in the camper whilst still in Lidl’s car park , much to the amusement of the other shoppers going in to buy their weekly groceries.
Having not lost much time to the delayed flight we still had the opportunity to go to visit the French National Motor Museum in central Mulhouse. The collection of cars was built up by the Schlumpf brothers hidden in their textile factory but when they went bankrupt in the 1970’s the collection was discovered and requisitioned by the state and it remains there to this day. A good visit.
After the museum it was time to find the campsite and safely set up. Monica treated us to fried chicken accompanied by our favourite Beetroot and apple salad making a very early but welcome appearance on the menu.
The meal was washed down by a local beer Meteor which received a positive thumbs up and set the scene for the trip.
Oh and I almost forgot – Monica’s challenge – to which the Meteor was the first successful entrant. As we are going through each country Monica’s task is to buy the local or regional beer so we can taste test each one. Tomorrow we finish in Germany so Monica will be looking for some Paulaner weissbier.
And we will actually be starting the cycle.
You know you’re in Germany when you can’t hang out the washing!
Posted by nbjtours on September 1, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 6 Comments
Waldshut, Germany
Day One
65 miles.
1398 ft climbed.
We finished our day’s cycling earlier than expected so took advantage of the fine weather and washed our cycling kit when we took our showers. Hanging it up round the camper it had fortunately almost dried when the owner came round on her electric scooter and told us that we could not hang out our washing as it spoils the look of the site. Bonkers, but there we go. Like good Brits we complied. This will be our only night in Germany.
Starting off in France today would see us tick off three countries on our first day. After extracting ourselves from Mulhouse the first 25 miles ran alongside canals and the Rhine to Basel and into Switzerland. We took our passports just case but they were so not required. This was all off road on flat cycle paths. A really good introduction to the cycling on the trip.
Finally emerging from our cycling heaven along the traffic free canal tow paths we entered Switzerland and need not have worried. The cycling infrastructure in the city centre was great and the traffic light, so we were able to cycle around over the river into the old town and back again without issue.
Leaving Basel via cycle paths running through posh suburbs and endless huge chemical and drug company manufacturing plants ( BASF, Novartis, Roche & DSM to name a few) we finally veered away from the Rhine to cut a meander, climbing a whole 125 ft to meet up with Nigel & Monica who had stocked up the camper, so our coffee and pastries were ready. This short stretch of road was the busiest all day and the only one without a cycle lane. We cannot complain though because we think that of the 65 miles covered today less than 10 miles we’re not on dedicated cycle paths.
We were running ahead of time for this short day and did look to see if we could add a few miles but could not see another campsite en route so had to remain as planned.
This meant our last stage today was relaxed as there was no hurry to get to our campsite so we did take a couple of little detours. One through the pretty border town of Langenlauf where we crossed the Rhine over an old cobbled bridge and into Germany.
Now in Germany we followed the Rhine to the campsite. Managing a quick crossing over a long cycle bridge to briefly pop back into Switzerland before continuing onto the campsite.
Stopping to watch a ferry dock whilst fighting against a very fast flowing river we were able to race and beat it by some minutes to its next stop at the campsite.
Unfortunately the site was full so the lads in their tents are in the site and we are on the opposite side of the road in a camper park which is now full too. The weather which has given us our first dry day on a tour since 2019 encouraging everyone out for a long weekend camping. Our other sites are booked but here they would not take bookings.
A hearty spag Bol and ice cream was followed by a lesson on mitochondria and ketones from Monica, just to keep our brains, hearts, lungs & pancreas functioning properly
Tomorrow will see us leave Germany within a mile of this site as we cross the Rhine again to go back into Switzerland. Perhaps a good thing as these strict rules are just a tad annoying. Three countries today and all being well three more tomorrow as we should end in Liechtenstein.
Kerbed & Posted
Posted by nbjtours on September 2, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 4 Comments
Day Two
Triesen, Liechtenstein
98 miles 2474ft climbed
The first thing to say before launching into todays blog is that no cyclists were seriously damaged in the pursuance of this trip. NBJ Tours is proud not to have had any accidents in 15 years and over 20,000 miles of cycling but today we had two within ten miles.
Firstly in coming off the main road to join a cycle path Nick failed to see that the kerb was raised a bit higher than it should have been and taking it too obliquely lost his front wheel and ended up on the deck. He banged his knee and elbow but dusted himself down and we went on our way.
Then just ten miles later as we were negotiating round Zurich a bit off piste where there were big concrete posts holding up a building Chris glanced down at his Garmin then glanced off a post and ended up on the pavement. Luckily he too suffered nothing more than a grazed elbow to match Nick’s earlier effort. No serious damage had occurred and our Dr was not summoned nor was worried about the injuries.
Knowing the day was a long one we were up and out after our porage by 7.25 with most of the rest of the campers still shuttered up. It was less than a mile before we crossed the Rhine and left Germany to go back into Switzerland We immediately ended up running on a bike path next to a lake and despite the early time saw a good number of twichers with their binoculars out looking for avian life. We even stopped to climb a large lookout a remarked how this made Bough Beech and its twichers seem second division.
Running mostly along the Limmat valley into Zurich navigation was good although the town of Brugg provided a challenge as we were caught out by two underpasses. one I took by mistake and another we struggled to find and spend an extra ten minutes or so before we got back on track. A couple of short climbs then led us onto the mostly gravel path beside the river. It was turning onto here that Nick chose to lie on the pavement!
It was still quite early and the river paths were full of joggers and cyclists out for their morning exercise Coming into Zurich we made a bit of a detour to cross the river on an old railway bridge and seeking this was where Chris had his argument with a post.
Dusted down we passed a section of river/canal that had been converted for swimming and was busy with people enjoying the warm weather. Sweeping through Zurich we coffee’d in a park on the outskirts overlooking Lake Zurich as trying to organise a rendezvous in the city was too complicated.
The next section of the day was running alongside the lake on a cycle path and was probably the least enjoyable riding of the day. At least it was mostly flat and we saw countless fancy cars going the other way including some nice 1960’s US and English examples.
Lunch with Nigel and Monica was at the far end of the lake after around 25 miles with still over 40 to go. Having set up in a great spot Nigel gave short shrift to the lady who told him he couldn’t camp there After all he was only airing the tents and setting up for our lunch.
The end of the lake was not much further and we then had a link section across farmland to the next lake Walensee. The landscape was by now becoming more alpine too.
Interestingly it appeared locals would get on anything that floats and then let the very rapid current take you down from one lake to the next needing no effort to whizz along Just requiring a lift back
Swiss railways are legendary and we ran alongside them often today. Two points to note were that big security fences are not required( we could have walked onto the tracks where ever we wanted and the trains are so quiet. You could not even hear them clatter over the rail joints. Quality engineering.
We had decided on a quick tea stop at Walensee just before a couple of road tunnels. The last 25 miles were then probably the most surprising and fun of the day.
Here a cycle path ran next to both a road and railway sometimes one side sometimes the other and occasionally in between. Now the most surprising section of all was a cycle tunnel which we entered as the road entered its tunnel we started out below the road with the road on the right and ended up above the road with it on our left!The magic tunnel
Just after this we had a nasty surprise of a short 28% gradient as not all our cycle path had been tunnelled!
Just after this we rejoined the road and we’re immediately overtaken by a lady on an electric mountain bike. Nick as we know does not like being passed and we then proceeded to chase her down and overtake her. Nigel captured this above and it has to be said she was very pleased with her efforts and encouraged us off as we sped along.
The last bit of the route saw us cross another flat valley bottom having a quick stop for a Karen flapjack before the final push along the Rhine ( yes it’s back ) then crossing it again to move from Switzerland to Liechtenstein. The day top and tailed by crossing the Rhine to move from one country to another. The campsite was then a short climb away to finish a satisfying and long day at around 5pm.
The site is good and expensive. Apparently the GDP here is one of the highest in the world, but the Population is only 38,000.
Nigel barbequed Swiss sausages with Monica’s coleslaw and new potatoes in butter for the menu this evening After such a good day everyone was too tired for cards and went to bed.
The cycling infrastructure in Switzerland has been amazing and that has been reflected with the number of people we have seen cycling in families and groups along these paths. A few. Lycra clad warriors but mainly those out for a gentle cycle with friends along the smooth and flat valley paths. Most have had electric bikes too. The converse issue to this wonderful resource has meant it has been quiet hard planning a rendezvous with Nigel and the camper where our routes coincided. However if you fancy a surprising cycling holiday try the flat traffic free cycle paths in the flat valleys of Switzerland
Tomorrow sees the biggest climbing day of the tour as we enter Austria
The Silvaretta Pass 2036m
Posted by nbjtours on September 3, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 5 Comments
Day Three
85 miles
6000ft climbed
The main objective of the day was the climb over the Silvaretta toll road. Featuring a seemingly endless number of hairpin bends up ( actually 30) and a gradient that averaged almost 7% after the first half being 10%, this was certainly going to be a challenge. I will let you have Chris’s quote later in the blog.
Again blessed with good weather we set out from our Liechtensteiner campsite at 7.30. Initially we ran beside the main road into the capital Vaduz. While obviously wealthy and lacking in charity & coffee shops it is no bigger than Tonbridge High Street with a parliament building and like us has s castle on a hill.
As we went through Vaduz early this Sunday morning they were setting up a TV chef based event with barbecues and stages for the impending show. Leaving Vaduz we once again headed along cycle paths through the middle of the wide valley that is Liechtenstein.
It did not take long to cycle the length of Liechtenstein, so after about ten miles we crossed the border into Austria.
Moving into Austria there was no let up in the high quality of the cycle paths which remained sealed with the smoothest tarmac you can imagine.
After a short while we cycled through the attractive town of Feldkirch which was really the last town of any note before we started to climb up the valley.
Leaving Feldkirch again on a super cycle path we started the very gradual climb up the valley towards Silvaretta. This took us away from the more famous and busier Arlberg pass.
Climbing along the valley beside the river, we saw farmers busy cutting grass to store for winter fodder. It was an easy and enjoyable experience. The smell was glorious and it was interesting to see how and what each farmer used to cut and collect. Some was very much hard manual labour, unlike the guy below.
Chris was a bit trepidatious about the climb and tried to catch this train to the bottom of the steep bit to save his energy. Sadly for him the train stopped for a whole 30 seconds to pick up a couple of passengers and was then off again. What efficiency.
As we continued to run along a cycle path off the main road Nigel very cleverly managed to find a spot just where the cycle path ran beside the road for a few hundred yards. We breakfasted in the carpark of a sports outlet shop, as Monica had earlier found out everything is closed in Austria on a Sunday!
Carrying on after breakfast we had a very surprising detour having noticed some ski jumps we were amazed to see a competition for teenage girls in full swing on the synthetic surface. Most impressive.60 metre jump.
By this time the cycle path was running out and we were advised to take the road and this is where the toll road started and the gradient moved from 2% to 10% and we started the 30 hairpins. We topped our bottles up at hairpin one and then Nick proceeded to do his mountain goat bit and disappeared into the distance.
Unusually Nigel stopped before the top so we had our lunch after the majority of the hairpins but with still a few left and some steep ramps to get to the summit three miles up the road.
Having reached the top Nick was keen for more, I was relieved and Chris was dreaming of an electric bike.
Leaving the busy summit where the hoards of motorcyclists had stopped like us to look at the peaks. Including Piz Buin, the famous one that has its own sun cream.
We then still had 25 miles to go to the campsite. The only bonus of being at 2036 metres is that afterwards everything is downhill.
Apart from a short hill a mile from the end this 25 miles really was fun running along the road through several tunnels and at time’s approaching 50 mph. ( note there were only two hairpins near the summit to slow us down) So only an hour and a quarter after leaving we were in the campsite.
Nigel’s speciality this evening was his version of a Jamie Oliver one pot chicken curry. After todays efforts there was nothing left.
Tomorrow Monica has promised to resume her Lidl shopping. The campsite is right next to one so she is hopeful of finding an Austrian beer as well as restocking the camper.
I will leave you today with this picture of Chris at our lunch stop after hairpin 26. If anyone would like to send suitable caption please do so.
The Valley of Plenty
Posted by nbjtours on September 4, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Day Four
Kramsach, Austria
85 miles 1200 ft
Chris coined this phrase as we were cycling along the Inn Valley as the flat fertile plain was full of various fruit and vegetables. We saw apples, vines, raspberries, blackcurrants, potatoes being harvested, and leeks too which filled the air with their distinctive odour. A field of celeriac also added a different smell too. This was all in addition to the usual maize and grass fodder fields as we cycled along.
Today was all about following the river Inn. Although in theory it was an easy flat day gradually going downhill we unfortunately had a steady headwind which strengthened as the day progressed. Although Nick continued to ride with verve, it is fair to say Chris & I were glad to finish at the end of the day.
Once again most of the route was on dedicated cycle paths, the vast majority being tarmac, but just to keep us on our toes every now and again we had a kilometre of gravel.
One of the notable features of the day was the growth in the size of the river valley which started out quite narrow in Landeck and grew as we progressed. The river was always running fast and as we found later we were lucky not to be here when the river was in Full flood.
One thing that we remarked upon as we cycled through was the lack of wildlife, particularly birds. We saw a few kites and crows but little else so presumed the farmers shot everything else.
However in addition to the odd lizard and a mouse that scuttled across the track we did see these Chamois grazing contentedly in a field.
What is noticeable is the compliant and trusting nature of the average Austrian. Whilst this may lead to some frustration with the obeying of the rules it does also mean that they don’t need to fence off railways and facilities are left in superb condition.
The first leg to coffee was the most varied and although we were sharing the river valley with the railway and a motorway we were often in trees and fields away from the noise.
At one point we did actually climb up well above the river to look down at a couple of bends.
I’m not sure how many times we crossed the river but it must have been well over ten often on dedicated cycle bridges, some wooden and others suspended.
The other interesting thing we saw a few times was a counter which advised the number of cyclists using the path. On the first one we crossed we were 28-30, the last was a few hundred and the annual figure was in the hundreds of thousands.
Having started at a tardy 8.05 coffee was very welcome where Nigel had managed to negotiate with a sports club to park up the camper to dry the tents and set out the pastries!
The next leg was split into two. The first section to Innsbruck was the least enjoyable of the day as we ran right next to the motorway. We even noticed a cyclist stopped to go into the motorway services. With the headwind and to noise of the traffic it was good to finally get into the outskirts of Innsbruck.
After a quick detour and walk into the very touristy centre of Innsbruck we then cracked on to meet the camper although had a repair stop because Nick was concerned his saddle had moved.
For our lunch stop Nigel had set up in the enormous Swarovski Crystal carpark. The good thing was that we now only had 24 miles left to go for the day.
We continued along cycleways but the most noticeable thing was the aftermath of the flooding that occurred only a week ago with some crops destroyed but also thousands of sandbags and mud having been snowploughed out the way.
Our campsite today was up the biggest hill of the day – only 250 ft- but we finished at 4.30 where Monica had managed to meet the next part of the challenge with the most popular Austrian beer. She is hopeful that as we pass into Germany briefly tomorrow she can catch back up on her quest.
Salmon and cucumber salad were on the menu this evening and there was even time for a round of cards.
With the weather due to get warmer tomorrow and some climbing earlier on we will be getting away early again to try to beat the heat.
Green
Posted by nbjtours on September 5, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Day Five
Salzburg, Austria
86 miles 3120 ft climbed
Today was one of those great days cycling that we will remember for a long time. The weather was excellent and the scenery was truly picture perfect. Some of the views could not have been more typically Austrian if they tried. The key to this beauty was the colour green, the verdant mountainside pastures resplendent as bright as emeralds shining beneath the blue sky. Fabulous. The pictures don’t really do it justice.
Having decided to leave early, as soon as we had finished our compulsory porage, the first twenty-five miles continued our assault on the Inn valley.
It was quite a chilly start if we were not in the sun , and after a downhill start managed to warm up quickly as we sped along without a headwind making some good progress in the first hour and a quarter covering 20 odd miles.
What was noticeable as we rode down the ever maturing valley was it’s width and how the waters of the Inn calmed although it still ran quickly. We continued to share the valley with farms, the autoroute and the railway as the river got bigger.
Having crossed the Inn for the final time at Kufstein we shortly left the Inn valley for the first time in around 100 miles.
We then started a gradual climb up out of the valley alongside another river and this is where we started to see the Austria that we all think of with green grass and house balconies full of flowers with the mountains in the background.
Having decided to meet with Nigel & Monica by Walchsee the view and site did not disappoint. Few coffee stops will be as scenic. Even here Nigel took the locals to task for trying to charge him to park and he agreed not to pay!
We did see a bit more wildlife including some cranes in the fields and some autumn crocus too. Running along in the stunning scenery made cycling easier even if there were some more hills to climb.
As ever most of the riding was on dedicated tarmac cycle paths until we approached the German border when we had a couple of miles on a main road before crossing the border and turning off into the woods and we then had a few kilometres on rough gravel tracks including an additional hill added for Nick.
Whizzing down the first of several hills Nigel had set up our lunch stop at what he thought was a disused railway station only to find there were two trains an hour in each direction!
We remained in Germany until almost the end of the day as the border is on the outskirts of Salzburg. This means we will now stay in Austria until next Monday after our weekend break in Vienna. We will have completed by then the East to West crossing of the country.Nick & sound effects descent
Coming down from the high hills we had several great sweeping but not too steep descents and a couple of short climbs which again were great fun.
Crossing our final river of the day brought us into the outskirts of Salzburg and back into Austria where we had a short five miles on to the campsite.
This evening pork schnitzel, coleslaw & potatoes was followed by stewed plums with ice cream. Who needs a restaurant. Monica had even found the requisite German Beer.
So five days down and two and a half more to Vienna. The sun has promised to shine some more.
Lovin’ and Leavin’ the Lakes
Posted by nbjtours on September 6, 2023Edit This
Day six
Linz, Austria
95 miles 2133ft climbed
Today we moved from the Tyrol to the Danube basin and the landscape changed significantly over the journey. However the one thing that we enjoyed and took advantage of during every stage was a lake. Very different lakes but ones that made the ride special. The other thing to note is that today we hit 500 miles completed after six days riding.
Leaving the campsite in Salzburg the initial destination was the area known as the Salzkammergut ( the Austrian equivalent of our Lake District) as ever we started immediately on cycle paths which wound their way up out of Salzburg, climbing gradually for 9 miles. As we left early we had to take care as coming the other way at high speed were numerous locals on their way into town to start work.
After out climb we entered a pretty Green valley where there was little activity apart from the farmers cutting their grass.
Moving on from the valley we approached Mondsee but first saw a bunch of climbers at St Loritz preparing to go up.
Mondsee was very pretty and we ran round part before disappearing into a long cyclist only tunnel – cars had a separate one.
As we moved on from Mondsee we came to the larger Attersee where we had hoped to rendezvous with the camper. However Nigel got moved on or was asked to pay so we ended up having to cycle the 15 mile length of this lake before we were allowed to have our coffee and pastry stop. It even included a few sharpish hills so a Karen flapjack stop was added to the programme.
We also enjoyed watching the grass collecting device as below!!
After leaving Attersee we left the mountains and lake and started to transition towards the Danube basin. The landscape changed and we picked up the river Ager which then merged with the Traun.
Whilst the majority of this stage was on cycle paths they were unusually nearly all gravel. It may have been something to do with the fact we went round over and beside several gravel lakes not unlike our Barden Lake back in Kent. We did see one large terrapin and many fish in several.
The gravel was mostly great except for a couple of stretches where it had been laid too thickly and challenged grip and stability. The many other as usual electric bike users grinned at our instability.
Nigel was pleased with his lunch stop which was just off the cycle path but the bunting of our drying washing was plain for us to see !
Lunch was merely frankfurters and scrambled egg and by now we kept out of the sun. The good thing about the extra long first leg meant that we only had 26 miles left as leg three to the next campsite.
This leg was almost entirely along the river on tarmac paths and Nick powered us along for several kilometres luckily mostly shaded from the sun.
Nearly there I actually had programmed in the wrong campsite so a quick lap of the wrong site before moving on to the site I’d booked which is far superior, as it boasts a swimming lake with water skiing the lot.
After the efforts of the day the three N’s , Nick, Nigel & Neil had a very refreshing swim before our very welcome beef stew
The cards have been as keenly contested as usual but this year Nick’s beginners luck appears to have vanished. Undefeated last year, Chris changed the game and he has lost every night so far!
Nick has just cried “it’s almost nine o’clock, time for bed. “ As Everyone is exhausted after another great day, the cards stop and we all disappear off to bed to recharge the batteries for the next day.
Sobering Winds
Posted by nbjtours on September 7, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Day Seven
Krems, Austria
87 miles 1490 feet climbed
Today was a very sobering and exhausting day both from a physical and mental viewpoint. Early on we took a little detour from the Danube cycle path to visit the Mauthausen Concentration Camp Memorial Centre which was an incredibly moving and saddening experience. More of which later.
In addition the constant headwind which we have had to deal with since the start of the Inn valley picked up even more strongly today so we had a block headwind all day. So much worse than a hill as there is no benefit for the extra effort.
We left a little later than usual so that we could arrive at Mauthausen just as it opened, having ridden about ten Miles with a nasty little hill at the end. This was a very good decision as it allowed us each to wander round the site on our own and reflect on how awful man can be to man for no real reason.
The site was very well presented and free to enter, respectful and not touristy ( although I’m sure it can be)
Some areas were particularly evocative, it should be on all school agendas to make children understand this horror and know that around 50% of the 190,000 inmates who were sent here between 1938 & 1945 died. Just so awful.
We left the visit quietly and contemplating what we had just seen. The road to the site had just been resurfaced and was the neatest smoothest road you will ever see. I was able to congratulate the workman ( in the background of the photo above) who were tidying the edges on their excellent workmanship.
Having had a quick coffee we knew we still had over 75 miles to cover and time was pressing on. We decided to change the programme a little to stop for lunch then have a tea stop later.
This stage was run mostly on the raised banks of the Danube and was particularly exposed to the draining headwind. Most of the levee was tarmac but one section was rough stone slabs so we had to resort to grass running for a while slowing us down further.
Allied to this , being stuck on the levee, meant there was little to see as the river was wide and featureless. A short section away from the river brought some relief and a bit of fun when we came across these pumpkins and squashes being sold
A full French stick lunch was followed by a slight change in the scenery as the Danube forced its way between hills on either side, but the wind was still slowing our progress.
Tea and doughnuts were taken with still 30 miles to go and we did not leave there until around four. After a short but very steep climb to get up and over a bridge we swapped to the other side of the river.
This was a good call as the cycle path no longer hugged the river itself but ventured into and out of the numerous small vineyard villages along the banks.
It was now that Nick said he had a phone meeting to attend to at 6pm otherwise he would be unable to put in his consultancy attendance invoice for $$$$$. As Chris and I had been holding Nick up we suggested he push on to get to the campsite. Although doing well he sadly ended up just over a mile short so we came across Nick in full conference call mode in the middle of a small village!!
Chris and I therefore throttled back and enjoyed the most scenic part of today’s route as much as our tired limbs would allow.
Durnstein was full of tourists probably having got off the Viking cruises boat docked nearby. We did not hang around, although understand Richard the Lionheart was supposed to have stopped here a few years ago.
Chris and I finally arrived at the campsite in Krems at 6.30 ready for our cold beer. Nick followed a few minutes later having successfully blagged his online attendance.
Once again Monica & Nigel rustled up an eagerly devoured dinner of chicken thighs potatoes and Monica’s infamous salad.
An exhausting and thought provoking day had come to an end Why can man be so evil and not learn the lessons of the past.
Concrete Wheels.
Posted by nbjtours on September 8, 2023Edit This
Day 8
Vienna
56 miles. 421 ft climbed
660 miles completed on the first leg.
When cycling for long distances you do become somewhat obsessed by the quality of the surface you are travelling upon as it directly affects the pain transmitted to your ever more sore backside.
Generally speaking we have been spoilt by the super smooth tarmac or gravel paths in all the countries we have visited. Only occasionally he we had to evade difficult terrain. Well today was a first for all of us as just after leaving Krems and crossing a bridge under construction (but open) we actually cycled across some newly laid cement, having to push extra hard to get out to the other end before we would have become statues embedded on the bridge. The workmen seemed none too perturbed and straightaway started to tidy up our tracks!!
Today was always planned as a short day to get the final 55 miles to Vienna then meet up with our wives who had flown over the day before. Once again we ran alongside the Danube and luckily the headwind abated for the first 30 minutes before coming back on song for the rest of the day.
We crossed over the Danube on a few occasions using the huge hydro/ locks as crossing points watching a barge through on one occasion
Cycling along the levees was tough with the only respite being either these crossings or a short section of woodland as another tributary joined the Danube meaning a diversion in the otherwise consistent pedalling.
Whilst we haven’t seen as much wildlife as we thought we may as usual first thing we did spot some large slugs who seem destined to be caught out by the sun before they are able to make it across the path. Nick continues to frighten the grasshoppers who ping into the undergrowth as he powers past. Chris has no such luck and has so far squashed a slow worm and a lizard, although a grass snake did evade his concrete tyres this morning as it slithered away into the bushes!
We had a brief coffee stop with only 25 miles to go and arranged to meet up with Nigel, Monica and the ladies in Vienna so all was set. Nigel performed a quick clean up of the bikes to remove any traces of the early morning’s concrete encounter before we left.
Coming into Vienna was a breeze with the specific cycle lanes guiding us passed complex road junctions and into the city centre without an issue.
We even managed to work our way through the Hofburg Palace and Spanish Riding school.
Sopping briefly to meet up Nick’s wife Carolyn who was on her way to a music museum as befits a piano teacher we carried on until we arrived at Schonbrunn, a palace fit for the end of leg one.
Not being allowed even to walk our bikes passed these gates we then went to meet Nigel & Monica who had by this time been joined by our wives, Caroline & Karen, our Austrian friends Moni and ( my Austrian daughter) Tini.
Leg one completed successfully over 1000kms on mainly dedicated cycle paths, not a drop of rain Incredible. We have s lot to Learn in the U.K.
We now have two days r’n ‘r before the next stage of the trip into the old iron curtain. We are not expecting the same level of sophistication or quality of campsite!
The next update will be published o. Monday until then BBFN.
Hot Slovakian…
Posted by nbjtours on September 11, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Day 9
Dunajska Streda, Slovakia
78 miles 577 ft climbed
Today was a big day in more ways than one. After enjoying Vienna in the company of our wives it was back on our bikes after two days resting our tired limbs and sore bottoms. In addition we were about to leave Austria to start our journey into what was behind the Iron Curtain prior to 1990. Lastly and significantly it was our compadre Nick’s birthday today.
Birthday boy with his cakes
With us all fully refreshed apart from Nick who had walked around 35 km in the last two days and the forecast due to be hot we decided on an early start once again.
The mornings leg started out along the Danube levee before a detour round this huge oil depot before moving slightly away from the Danube and then we ran along a old railway line which was straight and true for at least fifteen miles. As ever Chris & I let Nick lead the majority of the pretty mind numbing and scene-less route, although I did feel sorry for him and took the last five miles
Completing this part of the route we moved away from the Danube towards Schloss Hof where we met up with Nigel & Monica for our coffee stop already in the shade as the temperature had begun to climb. As we cycled between large fields we came across a huge field of onions left out to dry so I popped down and scrumped one for dinner!
Leaving coffee we quickly passed Schloss Hof itself and almost ran over the marmots that were squeaking noisily near its entrance gates. We were now close the the border and were able to cross a river over the cycling friendship bridge as we left the castle’s estate. Poor Nigel and Monica had a long trip round over the Danube to get into Slovakia.
Moving into Slovakia there was a slight deterioration in the quality of the cycling infrastructure but realistically this amounted to slightly uneven tarmac. It is still far superior to that in the U.K.
Slovakia, is incredibly the country with the highest car production per capita with plants already building Volkswagen, Audi, Porsche, Citroen, Land Rover and Kia with a new Volvo facility due to come online soon.
We then started to enter Bratislava itself, initially on the bank of the Danube before we then rode through the pretty pedestrianised centre of the city.
After having had a whizz round the city centre we then left to rejoin the river levee. At this point the river must have been a mile wide and really did not look like a river.
This leg was our most interesting of the day and Nigel had arranged a lunch stop just off the levee having put up the awning to give us some shade. We saw very few other cyclists all day and even Nigel wasn’t able to persuade a couple to stop and join us.
After this stop we ran along the river for around fifteen miles before leaving the river at Horny Bar and then running on small roads across the flat plain. As the heat was climbing further we stopped in the shade before the last push to the campsite. What was noticeable was that it appeared that all houses had just had fibre fitted but that the roads were just filled with gravel. This left a gravelly bump every 20 metres as we rode through each town. The choice being fibre or smooth roads!
The day being a little shorter we managed a finish at 3 pm. Followed by a glass of Zlaty Bazant and a quick cool down swim in the lake.
Monica had set out to explore Slovakian shops and branch out further than Lidl’s to ensure that Nick had quality cakes, delving into her German to secure the nicest ones at a patisserie.
There was no perceptible climbing today and I am glad that we have not slavishly kept to the Danube cycleway. I believe it would have been an even harder challenge without the variety that we enjoy. Interestingly as usual every Austrian cycle path we have ridden always has a kilometre of gravel despite the rest being beautiful smooth tarmac so we wonder if there is some rule to say this. ( There must be as Austria has rules for everything!)
Nick demanded a one pot curry with Monica’s beetroot & apple salad as his treat tonight so that’s what he got, before his super cakes. It is due to remain very hot tomorrow so it’s an early start again, with most of the day in Slovakia before crossing the Danube into Hungary.
National Anthem?
Posted by nbjtours on September 12, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 4 Comments
Day 10
Visegrad, Hungary
87 miles 686ft climbed
The loud speakers crackled into life and some music began to play, then it was accompanied by a man singing a patriotic tune. Was this Mustapha Mond the controller from Brave New World or had we descended back into communist Russia.Listen to this
We looked around checking our watches. We had just entered a small village, it was 8 o’clock , time for the National Anthem just to remind us we were in Slovakia and we must love our country. Nick is now keen to get Brian Rowe to get speakers installed in Hadlow Park so the residents can be woken and be ready for inspection every morning!
Starting at 7.30 to try to beat the heat that was forecast today saw our busiest launch on roads full of workers setting out for the day. After innumerable roundabouts to exit Dunajska Streda we finally were able to turn off to smaller roads where even they had cycle paths easing the ride.
The first part of our ride worked it’s way across the very flat fertile Slovakian plain north of the Danube. This was a good change from pounding by the Danube and saw us run through several small towns and villages, where we did enjoy the Slovak National Anthem as mentioned earlier.Sunflower harvest time
Agriculture abounded with apples, vines, various grains and sunflowers all in evidence. Running occasionally next to irrigation canals and rivers we saw more wildlife than for some time with a couple of very rapid deer, a hare that bounded across the path in front of us , and Nick even saw his first ever Kingfisher.
The other great variation of the day was the type of surface we cycled on. We reckon the only thing we didn’t cycle on was wet concrete we had cycled on before.
We enjoyed or should we say endured. Tarmac, new, old, almost vanished ( see above) , gravel, pebbles (like cycling on Hastings beach), grass, mud, dirt, concrete (various varieties) and even different types of cobblestones. Suffice to say to protect our delicates nether regions there was much warning and standing on pedals!
Before we made it to our coffee stop next to the Danube after the longest leg of the day we came across the longest wooden bridge in Europe and managed to cycle across it.
With the temperature rising Nigel & Monica’s coffee stop was shorter than usual and we set off on the standard Danube levee in some ferocious heat.
Unannounced we came across this Roman fort which was occupied from the first to the fourth centuries in keeping the Germans at bay. I had a walk round but Nick & Chris thought I was bonkers to venture out in the heat, but it was an interesting little detour.
Not long after this we came across a reconstruction of a Roman watchtower, although the fact it had ceramic tiles and plastic four glazing suggested it was not an accurate rendition.
Continuing along the levee we sought out shade when ever we could and did drop down to hide in the shade of trees on dirt tracks as preference to gravel on the top. We even had a brief stop by the Danube to cool down.
We need not have feared as Nigel had found a nice shady spot for lunch just by our cycle track so we were able to enjoy a relatively cool break.
It was not far now to the bridge to cross the Danube and enter Hungary which we had seen for some miles on the opposite bank of the river.
The Maria Valeria bridge was built in 1896 was destroyed in the Second World War but not rebuilt until 2001! After crossing the bridge we came into Esztergom which is home to the largest basilica in whole Hungary and the centre of Catholicism in The country.
Having got here we thought we ought to pay it a visit and climbed the cobbled hill to have a look. It’s size certainly makes it impressive although it is presently undergoing extensive renovations both inside and outside so was not at its finest.
Leaving Esztergom we had decided the final climb of the day up to the castle at Visegrad was better served by doing it first thing in the morning when it is cooler and the legs less tired. This just left twenty odd miles to the campsite. Sadly the last ten running along a busy road with cars and vans whizzing by every few seconds.
We need not have feared as on arriving at the campsite as Nigel had some cool beers waiting and we were able to shower quickly before spag Bol completed the day.
More warm weather is forecast tomorrow so we aim to get up and away even Earlier to tackle to climb to Visegrad before going on to Budapest.
A bit more National Anthem!
We later learned that this was a 1950/60’s crooner from the local area probably a favourite or relative of the mayor.
Castle Climbs
Posted by nbjtours on September 13, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Day Eleven
100 miles 1923 ft climbed
After two days of absolutely no climbing at all we decided to spice up the day ( and cheer up Nick) by tackling two climbs which on both occasions were topped by castles. The first Visegrad was immediately at the start of the day and within 4 miles we had climbed more today than in over eighty miles yesterday. We then also decided to venture up and visit the Castle district of Budapest to take in the sights there. As we are now firmly in the middle of the great Hungarian plain I am not expecting too much climbing tomorrow either.
Leaving the campsite at 7.15 today as we knew we had a long day ahead the climb up to Visegrad castle started within 400m of the campsite entrance. As well as the castle it also gave us a good view of the Danube Bend where the Danube moves from an Easterly flow to a Southerly one.
As it was still before 8 am everything was closed and when I entered the car park a loudspeaker announced “ you are in an unauthorised area please leave immediately “ Which of course I did. We did however make it up even higher to an Outpost of the castle by cycling up a 15% gradient although sadly the views were not worth the extra effort.
Having met Nigel & Monica at the top we chased the camper down a very bumpy hill and then said goodbye until our lunch stop some 60 miles away.
The route then took us along the Danube on a mix of road and cycle path past Szentendre ( which I has stayed in on my exploration of Eastern Europe in 1991) and then on some superb cycle paths ( and dusty tracks) into Budapest itself
Workmen were busy everywhere building new cycle paths so future cyclists will be even more spoiled. On entering Budapest we switched sides of the river and cycled along its green lung Margaret’s Island stopping to enjoy the famous Margitsziget szokokut.Margaret Island fountain
The fountain was pretty impressive even if we could not stay for one of its hourly music shows as they didn’t start until 11 o’clock and that was another hour away. Moving on from the island we went into Obuda part of the city stopping briefly for Nick to visit the pharmacy. Having to approach the castle hill from the rear we had a short two hairpin climb to get us where we needed to get to.
We managed a coffee stop before moving on to look at the view behind the cathedral which was another monument under restoration. Having done a photo exchange with an English couple on a river cruise, a New Yorker insisted on taking our photos from in front and behind. The celebrity almost got to Nick’s head! This reminds me, having seen a dozen or so Biking cruise ships full of sun tanned leathery folk, please do not ever let me go on one It looks like purgatory.
Leaving the castle area we dropped down crossing the Danube via the Szechenyi Chain bridge designed by an Englishman and built by a Scottish engineer both called Clark in 1849 and was the first permanent bridge over the Danube linking the two sides of the city. This year 2023 is officially the 150th anniversary of Budapest hence all the work in renovating it and we were lucky to cross the Szechenyi bridge as they have only just reopened it after a two year renovation programme.
This dropped us into the lower side of the city (Pest) and we worked our way out passing the impressive brand new stadium that has just held the world athletics championships.
Leaving Budapest behind we now had a long stretch along the biggest island in the Danube which is 42km long and full of dormitory towns served by a railway that feeds people into the city.
By now the temperature had begun to climb, Nick boasting 36 degrees although I’m inclined to more believe Chris’s 32 degrees as Nick’s Garmin is like it’s owner and for ever is over optimistic in its readings. He has usually cycled further and certainly climbed much more than either Chris or me every day!!
Running out of water required a stop in a local shop to top up the water bottles and cool our heads under a water pump.
Nigel had found a very good lunch stop near an outdoor shower where we all again cooled out top halves down. We agreed that we would split the last leg as although we had only 30 odd miles to go the heat was oppressive and an extra stop for tea and perhaps a cooling ice lolly would be good. Arranged, we set off for the most horrid leg of the trip so far which had the last 8 miles running along a busy and bumpy road with lorries thundering past. We were very glad therefore that as soon as we turned off we saw the Camper parked on the river levee.
The only downside was that the place was teeming with mosquitoes and we all left there with the standard war wounds although did destroy a number of the critters.
Just as we were leaving a herd of sheep/ goats accompanied by a man, a donkey and a dog, appeared and surrounded the camper. Whilst Monica being the animal lover she is fed the donkey it of course wanted more so Nigel with the help of the shepherd encouraged it to move on. A fun little interlude
Our final short leg was ok and having been scared off the main road to avoid another couple of miles we ran along this unmade up levee.
Crossing the river the campsite was only a few hundred metres on and we had made it to complete another day.
During the day we had come across a couple on a tandem and they ended up near to us on the site. Feeling sorry for them, Nigel invited Andy & Alison over for dinner and we had a good chat about our respective trips. They being recently retired and cycling from Amsterdam to Istanbul over 3 months with the aim of completing 43 miles a day two up carrying everything. Very impressive.
Only three days to go and we cross another border tomorrow to get to our eighth country of the tour.
Spicy Nun, Hot or Sweet
Posted by nbjtours on September 14, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. Leave a comment
Day Twelve
Suza, Croatia
102 miles. 879 ft climbed
Hungary is famous for its love of paprika. Todays route took us through the centre of the paprika growing region of the country, Kalocsa. In addition to paprika it is also a major religious and teacher training centre
Taking a bit of a detour to see the town we were able to enjoy seeing all these elements in one go. NBJ Tours have had previous with nuns as Chris, Brian & Mike will testify having come across some in the depths of France many years ago. Here we saw this cycling nun pass in front of the cathedral where a group of primary school children were about to be taken into the museum. As she went passed, the teacher nodded and they all waved and said hello, and the nun waved back. How good to see such respect
Once again we were up with the lark and after our hearty porage we were off again at 7.30 in the knowledge that another 100 mile day awaited.
Passing the soviet era war memorial we hit the road for our first mini leg of 16 miles to a ferry across the Danube. Nigel, Monica and the camper taking a different route.
Arriving at the ferry terminal after about an hour we were the only passengers for the voyage which we had to wait 20 minutes. Our cruise ( Linda please note) lasted around ten minutes as the ferry had to fight the current as the other side was upstream a little. it cost us €10 and we all felt it was sound value for the cruise but it confirms we are not in the market for a longer voyage.
We met Nigel & Monica for breakfast around another 7 miles on just before our detour into Kalocsa.
We went past several paprika fields and the one above had workers at the other side who encouraged us to get off and help them. As mentioned above we enjoyed our trip into Kalocsa, Nick even getting his museum fix in the Paprika Museum.
Leaving Kalocsa we could have almost thought we were at home when we spied a Tesco superstore!
For once the wind was slightly in our favour and although still warm the temperature was manageable with some cloud around and the thunderstorms stayed away. This helped us average 15 mph despite some gentle riding around town and the slow ferry rides.Nick powering the Hadlow train
The riding today was therefore much better and we only had a couple of bigger roads and lorries to worry about for short stretches. We did as ever have long straight roads or paths as has been so typical of this trip.
We did go through a few small villages which barely seemed alive, but it was good to see real life as we saw very few cyclists en route today.
An interesting note was that everyone’s drainpipe lead out across the path and into the ditch at the side of the road. Not something we’d ever seen before.
Lunch stop was on the levee before Baja where we made another detour to see the town
This is pretty small town around the size of Tonbridge which has been both Hungarian and Serbian throughout history.
Leaving Baja we ran along the Danube for a period before our final tea stop by the next ferry crossing. Nigel decided he could not risk the camper on the steep slope so would add some extra miles to his route to the campsite. . It turned out to be a bit more extra as he ended up having to go into and out of Serbia in order to cross the river and get back into Croatia!
We did not have the same issue but on getting on board the ferry were asked for our tickets which we should have bought at the kassa, although not signed. Initially the crew said we could wait half an hour for the next crossing, but common sense prevailed as we were not about to get off and one of the crew accompanied me to the kassa on the opposite bank to pay. This only cost €4 and as I was given change in Forints gave this to the helpful crew member.
A ten mile ride to get to Croatia followed and although it was evident that the border control was significant not long ago we were able to pass without stopping in the Schengen zone. ( unlike Nigel in Serbia, which we will have tomorrow)
The only hill of the day came just before the campsite and with it was a change in agriculture as we saw many vines and signs for wineries.
From the top of the hill it was only another two miles downhill to the campsite which was welcome after the second hundred mile day in a row. We have now completed over 1000 miles since leaving Mulhouse.
Beef stew for dinner and cards followed as we were back in our usual campsite routine. It has to be said that every site where we have stayed has been clean and the facilities have been what has been needed after a hard days riding.
Wine not let’s Wild Camp tonight.
Posted by nbjtours on September 16, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. Leave a comment
Day 13
Fruska Gora Mountains, Serbia
95 miles. 2479 ft climbed.
I’m blogging a day late as last night much to my fellow team’s excitement we camped wild in the Fruska Gora Mountains hidden away from sight, but with permission from the local farmer and although I had reception after over £26 in fees had not produced anything like a blog it was going to have to wait.
That was something of a contrast to the start of the day in Croatia where on paying the campsite bill , Nigel phoned us just as we were getting ready to get on our bikes and said you’ve got to come up here and see what they’ve got.
After having entered Croatia and had our only climb of the day just before the end, the hills used to grow the vines were also backed all along one side by houses. The owner explained originally they were troglodytic dwellings that over time were incorporated into wine cellars behind house fronts as they keep a constant temperature.
Of course we were offered a tasting and ending up buying some of his produce. He had good English and explained that whilst we are now in Croatia 90% of the population of this area are in fact Hungarian and speak both languages It is quite sobering to think that politicians decide boundaries ( in this case originally after the First World War) but the population carry on trying to live the way they know how and to retain their own identities.
Deciding to run a bit off the main route we found some more straight roads across agricultural lands and a couple of poor villages, Nick wisely not looking to invest. Above we ran through a dust cloud which smelt wonderfully of mint from the tractor cutting the ditch.
Finally coming off the flat lands we ran on larger roads into Osijek, the largest Croatian town in Slavonia.
Running along the opposite bank to the main town we crossed the river Drava on the pedestrian bridge which was famous as a symbol of the war of independence, although it has had to be rebuilt since.
Osijek looked an interesting place so we cycled into the old fortress part of town which was preparing for a music festival at the weekend and was full of activity. A very enjoyable trip round.
We then had to leave on a mix of cycle lane and road as the cycle lane was being built. This made us detour through a little market and we decided to pop into a bakery to find a local speciality to add to our coffee stop routine. This would prove to have been a good decision.
Carrying on to our revised coffee stop at Aljmas we had our only real wrong route of the trip when roadworks threw us off scent. To get back on track we ended up cycling down the yet to be made up new road.
Back on track and nearing our coffee stop a hill loomed into sight, something that always excites Nick. Then lo and behold a cyclist appeared from nowhere. That really got Nick going and he left us to chase the cyclist up the hill. By the time Chris & I caught them up Nick had a new friend in Sabrina from Munich who was cycling round Croatia to write a book on cycling tours.
Joining us for coffee Sabrina explained she is an architectural student and had diverted here to look at the unusual rebuilt church commissioned after the previous one had burnt down.
As she was going to run the same route as us as far as Vukovar she joined the train and seriously outpowered us as we covered the next 12 miles at over 18 mph.
We stopped initially at the Water Tower which has been retained as a symbol of the resistance to the Serbs having withstood hundreds of direct attacks. Vukovar is also known for the awful massacre that occurred when a prisoner exchange deal went wrong and 300 were left in the control of Serb paramilitaries and summarily executed a few kilometres out of town.
The building that the prisoners were held in has been turned into a very respectful memorial to those unnecessarily killed. This was yet another moment on this tour that makes you think about what drives people to do such things.
Taking lunch nearby we were entertained by some bank voles popping in and out of their holes. Sabrina left us to continue her exploration of Croatian cycle paths and we headed for Ilok on the border with Serbia.
We ran along quite a busy road but on seeing the road closed signs we ignored them as we do in the U.K. and had a three mile stint where we had the road to ourselves. This was fine until the last 200 metres which was unrolled stone and sadly a bit like in Sweden I caught a pinch flat. The first and only mechanical of the tour. We speedily changed it in 10 minutes and got through to meet Nigel just short of the Serbian border.
I had chosen a quiet crossing point. Leaving Croatia was easy and we had to cycle uphill to the Serbian border control which was manned by a jolly fellow whose English was confined to Novak Djokovic and a rather more surly woman with good English who questioned where we were going to check we said the same as Nigel.
Touching base with Nigel we had decided to wild camp in the Fruska Gora Mountains and he went ahead to try to find the perfect spot, on the condition it was no more than ten miles away, as we did not fancy too much climbing. This he did as explained earlier with Monica posted at the roadside to stop us cycling away as the camper was as ever hidden down a track.
We all had our camper showers before dinner to smell sweet and with Internet connectivity poor I joined the others in cards but came out the shedhead of the evening.
We whizzed through Croatia but could see the huge amount of work being carried out on their infrastructure both for cars and cycles. Definitely a work in progress.
We have now made our ninth country of the tour since leaving France on 1 September. Todays blog will hopefully be written on the journey home.
Belgrade: Mission Accomplished
Posted by nbjtours on September 17, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 5 Comments
Day 14
Belgrade, Serbia
78 miles 3491ft climbed.
Total distance 1203 miles.
Well there we have it another tour successfully completed. Our arrival in Belgrade was not exactly met with fanfares but after a hard cycle in today we were all very pleased to have found Nigel , Monica and the camper tucked away in the fortress on the outskirts of the city.
Incredibly this is the first tour since the original Europe, End to End tour that we have not had a leg interrupted by the weather requiring a camper leg. No rain at all during the two weeks we have been away makes up for the rain everyday last year in Ireland.
Having got into the early routine, wild camping was no different, except we had to let each other know at which tree we dropped off our children!
As we left the farmer who had been at work cutting the sweetcorn since just after five gave us a big thumbs up. Unlike the big fields on the plain he only had a small towed harvester and it was going to take the best part of the whole day to harvest his field. We think that unlike the cattle destined corn we see in Northern Europe this is left to ripen fully on dried stalks and is fit for human consumption.
The first part of the ride saw us running along the ridge of the Fruska Gora mountains for around 25 miles. Although we kept our altitude in that time we had fifteen rollercoaster down and ups of about 200ft with regular gradients of 10%. This was super tough on our tired legs, but preferable to running through a city.
The mountain ridge road was dissected by four larger roads that went straight up and down and we had agreed to meet Nigel & Monica at the major one. This had a couple of small cafes where we stopped and had a coffee and Nick fought with a very tough doughnut. Hard to tear but tasted fine. An old boy with a part restored Ford made 1940’s D-Day Jeep took great interest in the camper calling it an old timer and invited himself in for a look around.
We stopped briefly to look at the very communist style monument above and with only a couple more climbs before the end of the ridge saw another well damaged communications tower, that although still bearing the scars of war was obviously still being used.
We then had a great long gradual descent off the ridge back onto the Danubian plain.
Having spent our time so far in the trees we had seen little in the way of humans apart from a few walkers and some hunters spit roasting a wild boar. Coming down off the ridge reintroduced us to towns and on the edge of the first one we saw the blingiest church ever invented. Chris was sure it came from Essex.
The gold and green reflected the sun so brightly it was almost impossible to look at. Serbia is a very religious country and there was a mass going on indoors.
Now back on the plain we traversed a few small towns surrounded by fields of corn, sunflowers and lots of apple orchards.
After a brief drinks stop above where a local suggested we get a beer before we shot off we headed back out on the yet more straight roads across the plain. We have never been so straight so often for so long.
Travelling along between the orchards one chap was just climbing into his tractor with some bins full of apple as behind him. While passing I ask if I could have one and he nodded so I went back
Serbian people are known for their generous nature and Borivoje was no exception as he proceeded to hand over half a dozen huge green apples proudly declaring them to be Golden Delicious. I just about fitted them into the bag I carry just in case when he stopped me going a proceeded to go back into the orchards a pick another handful of red apples this time. “ Red delicious “ he said and with around four kilos of apples we thanked him and set off for lunch.
A tractor pulled out just in front of us and was just slightly slower than our running rate so after a bit of drafting we took the plunge and sped passed without a problem. We found Nigel & Monica not far up the road hiding in another apple orchard to enjoy our final lunchtime feast.
Agreeing our final rendezvous in Belgrade we set off on more of the straight country roads before starting to come into the outer dormitory towns and suburbs of Belgrade.
Traffic began to get busier and cars were parked both sides of the street whilst their owners went shopping so we had to keep our wits about us to check no one was reversing into the road. As if that was not bad enough the lorries and buses were most disrespectful overtaking us with not much room to spare and at unabated speed. It was noticeable how many folk were waiting for the regular buses at every stop and we decided to stay behind one as each time we had caught it up it went past again.
Finally after coming down a hill some roadworks took us off the main road and we were able to get onto the busy promenade next to the Danube for a sharp intake of breath and relax.
We now had a relaxing run into Belgrade off the road much to all our relief.
A very hard fought medieval battle reenactment group provided a brief interlude and we can assure you that they were really throwing their swords with venom.
Because of the traffic we revised our plans and forsook the ride over the new suspension bridge running along the river to see the city. Crossing the river Sava we met up with the camper and the cycle was over. The longest trip we have completed as a threesome.
Deciding to treat ourselves to a steak for dinner the trip to the Serbian supermarket was successful and Nigel was for the first time this trip allowed to fire up the barbecue, so he was a happy man
As we sat down to eat we were buzzed by three Serbian airforce MiG 29 jets on their way back to base at Batajnica air base just up from the campsite.
I am writing this blog as we traverse Hungary having had to wait almost 11/2 hours to get back into the EU at the Hungarian border.
We should still get to Vienna airport in time to drop Nick & Chris’s off for their 530 flight back to the U.K. Nigel will then drive the rest of us back to Calais and the U.K. for tomorrow evening.
I hope to put together some reflections on the trip in the next day or so. Thank you to Cadence Performance Cycles in Paddock Wood for providing spares, although we have only needed one inner tube all tour. It remains Chris, Nick & my thanks to Nigel & Monica for their unbelievable support to help us achieve what very few have or can do. Who do you know who has been to Serbia?
This journey is over but the planning for next year has already begun We can already announce it will be during the first two weeks in June.
Reflections
Posted by nbjtours on September 18, 2023Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 9 Comments
En route home in the camper.
Even though this is a very curtailed Atlantic Coast to Black Sea challenge this is the longest ride since the full north to south European trip in 2015. It has undoubtedly been a success. Over 1200 miles (3600 for all of us in total) over every type of surface you could imagine and only one pinch flat.
We have not had a drop of rain so were able to cycle every mile of the planned route and there was only one wrong route the whole trip due to the building of a new road upsetting our navigation.
So the bikes and route worked and liaising with Nigel & Monica and the camper worked even better than ever thanks to find my phone so even if it was hidden we soon found the green machine. We even arranged for a weekend off in Vienna to meet our wives and see our friends.
We were all glad that we had decided to spice up the route from slavishly following the Eurovelo 6 as forever running along river banks becomes rather tedious especially when the surrounding countryside is so flat.
With the exception of Serbia the biggest takeaway has been to cycling infrastructure in all the other eight countries which far exceeds that in the U.K. where the press seem to have successfully created a them and us culture pitting two groups against one another rather than Co-exist. Again with the exception of Serbia where we ran on the road all passing traffic gave us room.
The campsites in every country were clean, although some of the rules in the Germanic sites were a little unnecessary. We enjoyed most those where we were able to get in some lake swimming to ease the aching limbs. Wild camping is a great option and we will be looking to do this again next year.
Looking at the nine countries we travelled through we discussed where we enjoyed the most. Undoubtedly Austria which came up with picture postcard views round every corner won and we would like to go back However whilst we would not choose to rush back to Serbia the people there were certainly the most friendly to errant cyclists roaming in their country. Sadly it was also noticeable that Serbia was the most untidy with more rubbish thrown and left about the place.
Hungary and Slovakia are not as wealthy as the other EU countries but you can see that they are both catching up and infrastructure is improving.
The other abiding memories were the awful scars and tragedies that war leaves on landscapes and in hearts. The two memorials we visited following atrocities during World War Two and the Yugoslav War will live on in our minds.
Not all is gloom and doom and meeting up with fellow cyclists en route like Andy & Alison and Sabrina as well as others, to compare stories and routes help make the journey, as do the interactions with the locals ( where the Serbians won hands down) Is there a correlation between friendliness and wealth I ask myself?
We were disappointed with the lack of wildlife we saw, although the Chamois, Deer, Hare and Marmots were great. We did see the usual raptors such as Buzzard and Kite and probably Harriers too but again not as much as we would have thought. A couple of stocks and cranes as well as Nick’s Kingfisher. Perhaps this is where the intensive agriculture is having an effect.
Whilst the late summer will see fewer wild flowers there were less to see than we expected – the autumn crocus being a bright exception. Austria has to be blamed for some of this as they love their green grass so much they are always cutting it neat and tidily so wild things do not get the chance to grow.
As we cycled further south and the countries became less wealthy architecture obviously changed. Typicality from southern Hungary onwards the houses in the towns and villages were single storey and set back from the road with a wide grass front. In Croatia and Serbia many were empty and we understood that this is where people were forced from their homes during the conflict. In one Croat town in Serbia the previous population had been expelled and their houses given to displaced Serbs from elsewhere.
Being on a bike does give us the benefit of getting into places you could not access by car quickly and we did get to all the best bits of Basel, Zurich, Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest and Osijek without getting off our saddles snd wending our way through the pedestrianised areas avoiding the sad Viking cruise passengers walking around having been given their 3 hours visitation rights.
The team works so well and everyone is essential for the trips to run so smoothly. Although it has to be said that the support from Nigel, Monica and Broomey the camper are the vital ingredients that make the cyclists feel at home and looked after. Monica excelled at her find a beer challenge and we can’t say we were disappointed with any of them.
New adventures await us next year when Dom is due to join us again for another two week adventure, so we will have four riders putting our super support team under more pressure.
However, I will leave with a smile and a photo of peace & hope taken on the cleared site of one of the Mauthausen concentration camp buildings.
nbjtours 