nbjtours

Day Five

Pradoluengo to Viania +

67.5 +2.75 miles 3671 ft climbed

Today had some good highs, but also some difficult sections so to have peaks at either end ensured we had an enjoyable day.

We woke to the pitter patter of raindrops but pleasingly they came to very little so we were able to set off early before 8.30.

Even earlier Dom had got up and run up the hill chasing wild boar.

After having left our excellent campsite to the sound of the cuckoo we swiftly started the biggest climb of the day of over 1000ft to the Alto de Pradilla. Luckily for Chris and myself the gradient was never too harsh and we were able to grind our ways up in pursuit of Dom and Nick.

The view tax in ascending was worth it as was the hairpin filled descent so we all wore big grins as we reached the first town some five miles below. As usual the day was filled with the yellow broom and its scent. Climbing this hill we were accompanied by the strong smell of curry. I don’t know what plant or herb caused this but it did remind us of a good Indian.

Even though Ezcaray was hidden deep in the Sierra de la Demanda it did once have a royal seal of approval for its dyeing and fabric works in the 18 th century thanks to English and French know how, but then sadly lost over the years leaving stunning empty buildings just repurposed as a theatre and council offices.

We were then able to continue our descent along a river valley at 25 mph plus following the Cabrera train before an early ontime coffee stop with some exotic local hazelnut pastries. We agreed our next rendezvous on the other side of Santa Domingo de la Calzada where we would rejoin the Camino route.

We arrived and got our credencials stamped just as a group of self obsessed US pilgrims arrived . One explained he had already done the Camino but returned to be able to see the sights! This resulted in a brief spurt in numbers on Chris’s pilgrimometer but it still only got to 98 for the full day.

The next stop was after only a short 14 mile stint, although the general downhill trend was interrupted by a couple of lengthy climbs. This was because we had now entered Rioja country. We therefore stopped for an explanation, wine tasting and purchase. This obviously took some time as you cannot rush these things, so we decided to take lunch just around the corner. As well as vines we saw this hop garden and also a lot of potato fields.

The next section had a strong headwind which made the cycling less than enjoyable. Coming back to running on the Camino meant a bit of the gravel again but on this occasion it was worth it as it enabled us to get to near the heart of the busy city of Logrono via their version of Hayesden Lake.

We then worked our way into the historic centre and got our stamps although did not feel that it came up to the standards of Leon.

An ice cream stop was called for as although the day was overcast it was hot and sticky at 33 degrees with storms forecast. We had arranged to meet the camper 10 miles out of town and after a few steep hills and some tedious running along A roads decided to stop, as only more of the same was to come which is not fun cycling. Our tea stop at Viania was held with the smell of chocolate from the nearby Mondelez factory.

As many of you know I am a great motorsport fan and when planning the route last year mentioned to Nigel that we were passing by the Navarra circuit. By coincidence he happened to be going there transporting some racing cars for off season practice. He had a word with the circuit manager who said ask when you get here. Luckily for us the days practice for the weekend had just finished when we arrived so the green light was given for us all to have a lap of the track, albeit rather slower than the usual occupants. Nigel joined us and as we approached the first bend at probably 15 mph said a superbike is breaking for this at over 200!!! Although Nigel was dropped on the second half of the lap we didn’t have to call out the safety car and he completed the lap smiling. What a great way to finish the day.

We piled back into the camper buzzing at the end of another memorable days cycling to go to the campsite and had guests Stefan and Michelle from Windhoek, Namibia for our steak dinner. They are bravely riding the Camino with little training on a month’s sabbatical from work.

So we ended the day happy at a fun days riding having ridden up a mountain, tasted some wine, ridden round a racing track and chatted to some Namibians. That is cycling on a high.