Le Grand Trail de St Jacques 2024
Posted by nbjtours on May 19, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 4 Comments
It’s time to get back on our bikes ( nearly)
Five years ago in those blissful pre- pandemic and belligerent times of 2019 NBJ Tours cycling team set off from Tonbridge to cycle to its twin town of Le Puy en Velay to celebrate the 50 years of twinning and to link up with a dozen runners from the town’s parkrun who would take part in Le Puy’s popular trail races loosely based on the pilgrimage route from Le Puy to Santiago de Compostella.
With life now returning to a more aggressive normality a new but even more challenging adventure set seed. So this year the cycling team will aim to complete a reverse pilgrimage from Santiago to Le Puy arriving as before on the Friday before the trail races.
The trail races have grown in popularity so that there are now four distances of 18, 51,79 & 130 km and form part of the qualification for the UTMB international trail race series.
Our running team of twelve will have entrants in all four of these distances and as before there is the one super athlete Dom who will be cycling the 1000+ miles before the races, this year tackling the 79 km trail!
There have been a few injuries along the way but everyone is keen to tackle their chosen distance so I will hope to report on our successes in the trail races after 15 & 16 June.
Whereas Tonbridge to Le Puy took us 8 days and crossed the largely flat centre of France. The Camino across Spain is anything but flat with the Pyrenees and then the Massif Central to climb once we approach Le Puy.
It will certainly be the most challenging cycling trip we’ve undertaken and as such I’ve reduced our daily mileage a bit so we will take 13 days to cover the just over 1000 miles. Certainly we will have no qualms about cheating and getting into the camper if the weather or terrain are just too horrible.
Supporting the cyclists will, as ever, be the enthusiastic Nigel and Monica, piloting Broomey that Fiat 500 Green camper extraordinaire.
The cycling team of Chris, Nick, Dom and Neil will be forever looking out for that green once the next adventure begins.
The camper and bikes leave for that top corner of Spain on 30 May with three of the cyclists flying down to Santiago on 1 June before the cycling begins at Finisterra on 2 June.
Fitness and planning are almost complete, the tension and excitement are building for what we hope will be another great voyage of discovery- do join us for our next adventure from the end of the month.
The Next Adventure Begins
Posted by nbjtours on June 1, 2024Edit This
This amazingly is the twelfth NBJTours trip since the first Hadlow Tower to the Eiffel Tower ride in 2007 and the sixth since we have had the luxury of the support of Nigel and Monica in the camper.
Chris and I have been on every ride and Nick only missed a couple of early outings when Brian & Mike were regulars. This year we are once again joined by Dom Boulle who last rode with us from Tonbridge to Le Puy on the Twinning Tour in 2019. He has promised this year not to fall off his bike.
As mentioned previously we are cycling the Santiago de Compostella pilgrimage route to Le Puy in reverse which is just over 1000 very hilly miles. On arriving after 13 days hard cycling Dom is donning his trail shoes and will be running the 75k trail race. Is he human or bionic.
I am writing this as usual in my bunk in the camper on my iPhone but for the first time have had to admit defeat as wearing glasses to see what I type!
The trips down here were pleasingly without incident apart from seeing this van ablaze. The poor driver had his head in his hands just behind.
Having loaded the camper up in Hadlow on Thursday morning we took the ferry that evening and with two comfortable overnight stops arrived at the campsite in plenty of time to set up the tents before going to the airport to pick up Chris Nick & Dom.
Having feasted this evening with chicken and an early entry of Monica’s famous apple and beetroot salad we all feel set fair for the first days cycling from Cape Finisterre tomorrow.
The weather is looking sunny and warm but there may be a nagging headwind at play. Bring on the adventure.
Pilgrims from the West
Posted by nbjtours on June 2, 2024Edit This
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Day 0
Finisterra – Santiago de Compostella
62 miles
5758 ft climbed
We knew this trip was going to be tough and although our first day in the saddle was a bit shorter it had plenty of hills to remind us what lay ahead. However we all completed a longer first day than expected properly signed in as pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago.
After breakfast this morning at our campsite in Santiago we unusually all boarded the camper for the drive to the start at Finisterra. It took over an hour and a half to get there, winding its way over endless tree clad hills making us think we were going to be in for an honest day. Note Finisterra is the Galician spelling , Finisterre the Spanish.
We therefore did not leave the end of the earth until after half past ten and agreed a first meeting at around twenty miles. As can be seen from the photos the sky was a cloudless blue However there was a strong north/northeasterly headwind all day just to make this a bit more difficult.
We initially ran a little along the seaside through the towns of Finisterra and Cee, the latter having a Sunday market blocking the roads causing the first detour of the day
Leaving Cee we had our biggest climb of the day up from sea level to 1300ft over almost 6 miles Apart from a couple of steep ramps it was not too bad and lead us up Into the interior of the Galician mainland. As ever that mountain goat Cabrera lead the train with Dom snapping at his heels with Chris & Neil bringing up the rear.
Nearing the top of the climb we saw another cyclist getting some water at a farmhouse. Before we knew it,with a fully laden bike he latched onto the back of the Cabrera train.
We established that Jerome was from Alsace and had just completed the Camino by bike starting out in Le Puy 23 days earlier. A chef who works at Montgenevre near Briancon in the Alps, he had completed the ride in honour of his mother who had wanted to do the pilgrimage but sadly died last year As we were coming up to lunch we obviously invited him along to join our feast. He was only too pleased to accept
After lunch I decided that cycling on the quiet main roads would be easier and we therefore parted ways with Jerome although did see him filling up with water at a garage later on. Nick in front missed the turn but luckily Nigel was just passing the rest of us so we were able to get him to get Nick turn round to come back up the hill to join us.
The amended route was a good call and apart from the nagging headwind the hills were just that bit gentler and roads smoother. The highlights of this leg were a spot of bell ringing at this old church at Olviera which Nick reckoned was Chris summoning the devil, which knocked his bike over, and a crossing of a medieval bridge at Brandomil.
Nigel met us on his bike to lead us into our tea stop by a sports centre to end leg two with in theory only 17 miles to go but that’s not quite how it panned out
Soon after tea we took a little detour to see the even more ancient bridge at Maciera which although indicated as a footpath we had to get out the way for a car.
It was just after this point that Nick’s descending enthusiasm got the better of all of us as he headed full speed down a four mile hill taking us off route. This required some Google map rescheduling plus some climbing back up adding at least four miles to the day.
However all was not lost as we still had the highlight of our arrival into Santiago to come as we wound our way between the well behaved pilgrims to the enormous square in front of the impressive cathedral.
We then got our pilgrims passports stamped and took ourselves back to the campsite arriving around seven o clock after a satisfying and tough day in the saddle.
As ever Nigel and Monica had everything ready for us so we only needed a shower before our bangers and mash were served up.
It is worth noting now the reason for the pilgrimages here date back to the ninth century when a shepherd was led to a hillside at night and discovered some bones which were later confirmed by the local Bishop to be those of St James, one of Jesus’s disciples who, according to local legend came to Galicia to spread the word. Santiago de Compostella means St James of the starry field.
A church was built to house St James’s relics and pilgrimages started in the Middle Ages but stopped after the Black Death. The present pilgrimage routes really started in the 1980’s and now over 500,000 pilgrims are said to walk at least part of the route to Santiago every year.
Becoming True Pilgrims?
Posted by nbjtours on June 3, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Day One
Santiago de Compostella- Sarria
80 miles 8268 ft climbed.
In devising the route to Le Puy from Santiago I have not been religious ( pun intended) in following the actual Camino path but we do follow it more often than not.
Having our Camino passports also means that we explore some of the towns we pass through a bit more thoroughly in search of the church so we can get our credencial stamped. We did manage five today.
Today was so great it is difficult to choose an over riding memory. Was it the number of pilgrims walking in the opposite direction, the endless hills and descents or the superb landscapes full of the most wonderful wild flowers.
Leaving our campsite early at 8.30 to tackle a hilly day little did we realise what a tough day it would turn out to be. We arrived at our new campsite site in Sarria just after 7 in the evening having covered only 80 miles!!
Santiago set us up immediately with a super steep hill at over 10% running past the pilgrim hostel. The road was full of pilgrims and got us used to running opposite everyone on their way to Santiago. Most were very polite with an ‘Ola’ or ‘Bon Camino’. We were also amazed at the number of Japanese pilgrims.
In addition to the highlights above we often ran off bigger roads through small villages which were little more than a farm plus a few houses all tightly packed on the road which was often concrete. The smell was usually the familiar Eau de Hadlow cow manure! The only thing we had to watch out for were giant milk tankers that somehow got out to these farms tucked out of the way. How they managed to navigate the narrow villages we are not sure.
Spanish infrastructure is second to none and we spent much of the day crisscrossing the building of a new motorway which bulldozed and viaducted its way over and through the lumpy countryside. We could have saved a lot of climbing if we had sneaked on and used it!
As the terrain was so lumpy and we had to stop so often to take photos Nigel had to reposition the camper as we took three hours to cover less than 30 miles. The belated coffee stop was of course overlooking the motorway under construction!
Our slow progress meant that we decided early on that today was a three stopper so lunch which was taken at almost 3 pm was on the Camino route where Nigel and Monica could have set up a cafe and earned a fortune whilst waiting for the tardy cyclists!
Although we had only 30 miles to go Tired legs meant two 15 mile segments, where luckily the first had a six mile downhill stretch on super smooth tarmac which we enjoyed to the full, running at over 40 mph for some time. It did bring our average up to over 10 mph !!
Chris sensibly decided to save his legs at this stop and left Nick, Dom and Neil ( hanging on ) to cycle the last 17 miles. The last five of the 32 categorised climbs were not especially long but they all had super steep ramps usually on poor gravelly roads over 10% draining the last bit of energy. Chris had made a good choice.
On the last tricky descent on a poor road into Sarria Dom and I came across Nick in the middle of the road chatting away to a Colombian cyclist in training to do a few of the stages of the Vuelta
Arriving so late we had but time for a quick shower before pork chops tatoes and coleslaw was ready. This evening we were joined by Susana from Alicante who was bravely riding her 125 up from there and doing the Camino. As ever this allowed Nick to demonstrate his Spanish although Susana understood English pretty well as do most young people in Europe.
We took more photos of fantastic sights than you could imagine and saw more different species of wild flower than ever before so I will hope to put a flora and fauna page together later on the trip. But the fields of yellow and purple or the cushions of pink saxifrage along the edge of the roads were just wonderful.
Tomorrow sees the Queen stage of the tour with two big climbs book ending the day. Chris has already said he will just do the first. I will decide depending how tired I am during the day. Dom and Nick just say bring it on ! The weather is due to warm up further tomorrow hitting 30 plus so hydration will be key. Stay tuned for another instalment to see how we get on
If there’s a way Nick will find it.
Posted by nbjtours on June 4, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Day Two
Sarria to Astorga
Total 98 Miles but between 56 and 85 miles cycled.
Maximum elevation achieved 8995 ft.
We had climbed the first big mountain of the day and were looking forward to a nice speedy descent having found the old road down, as once again the Spanish were building a new motorway. After a couple of kilometres down a sign said the road was closed but we thought ok let’s just try.
However it was not so simple as that road took us directly onto the new motorway which was being used in one direction. Deciding we had better not go on the motorway, we went back up to the main road where there was a no bikes allowed sign as the main road was being used as the one way up of the other side of the motorway. we were therefore stuck with no way down.
As ever Nick said leave it to me I’ll see if I can find a track. Hey he did and after a little off roading we managed to negotiate our way under the motorway and onto the other side of the old road back on our way down
We counted five immense viaducts just along this stretch looming over us The cost must be huge.
This morning we knew it was to be a big day so rose early to get an early start at 8am. Nick complained about noisy birds and dogs keeping him awake but it may have been that Nigel had kindly pitched his tent under a light !
The morning was cool and misty and our first climb of the day started as soon as we left the campsite. At around three and a half Roughways ( a local climb to Hadlow) and 1200 ft it was a solid start to the day and gave us our first great shots of the day. We even saw a couple of Pine Martens.
Having ascended this small peak we then descended into Samos which was a small village dominated by a huge monastery. Nick tried but we were unable to find someone to stamp our credencials.
After running alongside a river for a while we then started the first big climb which was a 1900 ft climb over 6 miles most of which was at a constant gradient of 7-8%. As ever Dom and Nick shot up the climb whilst Chris and Neil were pleased to struggle to the top.
Nigel and Monica arranged coffee stop just over the peak where as usual we the enjoyed local Pastries as well as our coffee enjoying a magnificent view.
After the refuel we thought we were in for a nice downhill but there were in fact three peaks to the top in this col meaning more work to be done before we had the fun of trying to descend properly.
Although the first part of the descent was as problematic as already described once we had found our way onto the old old road ( whose surface was better than most of our Kentish roads) we had a good speed down off the mountain and then some proper cycling for a few miles running alongside the river with the motorway usually flying above us on yet more viaducts.
This finally brought us into Villafrancia ( French town) so named because French pilgrims from the Middle Ages liked it so much here they stayed and grew vines.
Once again we needed Nick’s language skills as the road was officially closed and a local workman was less than happy initially to let us past swinging the arm of his digger across the street. After Nick had explained we were mad Englishmen he let us walk by!
We rode through the town and got our credencials stamped before joining the pilgrims track out of town. Nick tried to convince us he counted every pilgrim he saw walking today. We are not convinced that the 190-208 figure he finally arrived at is correct. Certainly after seeing the paths they took none of us would have the slightest inclination to try to walk the Camino.
Nigel had parked up just off this track and found some shade from the hot sun although by now lunch was to be taken at 4 o’clock because of the slow cycling and route problems.
Chris and Neil decided to stop for the day having had enough. Nick and Dom were keen to do the last climb but were running out of time so we all hopped in the camper after lunch. Nigel
Then drove through the big industrial town of Ponferrada and dropped them at the bottom of the big climb.
We watched them up the first three kilometres and then left to set up camp next to the bullring in Astorga. Both of course got to the top but Nick was less complimentary about the route as the top of the climb saw the steepest gradients at over 15%. Serious kudos to them. Chris & I were happy we made the right decision.
Tonight’s menu was beef stew which we ate outside in the warm finishing around 9.30 still bathed in sunshine.
The bullring is next to the local air ambulance station and as we finished the helicopter came in to land to complete an exciting day.
Tomorrow is the flattest day of the tour with only around 3000 ft of climbing but the temperature across the Spainish plain is expected to reach 30 degrees plus so it will be another challenging day.
The First Cuckoo!
Posted by nbjtours on June 5, 2024Edit This
Day Three
Astorga to Sahagun
82.5 miles 3589 ft climbed
The title of this blog changed as I started to write it this evening just before ten o’clock as an incessant cuckoo started up his two tone call. We have always had history with the Cuckoo dating back to our first Iberian trip in 2016 when we heard it almost every day. That’s why they feature on the Nbjtours logo. As historic readers may know, Nick became allergic to the call and demanded the extermination of the Cuckoo as a species as they are so cruel. We are concerned he may be kept awake all night by the tormenting call and we will need to find another reader tomorrow morning for the audible version of the blog. Nick explained that perhaps it was not a cuckoo but a robin with a sore throat!!
Today started with a short ride into the centre of Astorga to see the magnificent cathedral and the Gaudi designed episcopal palace. We ended up chatting to a Japanese-Brazilian woman who lives in Liverpool who was in charge of a dozen or so Brazilians doing the Camino walk. She was not looking forward to her day’s walking it is fair to say.
Leaving Astorga we joined the Camino route proper to begin with, running off the tarmac road, firstly scaling this triple decker bike ramp bridge over the railway before having a short but very steep climb on cobbles up an escarpment to leave the town behind.
Using the official Camino route running alongside the main road saw us mostly on the old road, although with not too much traffic we decided to go onto the main road running more quickly on the hard shoulder.
Running along smaller roads we passed through little agricultural villages that reminded us of the backwaters of France before we came across Nigel and Monica set up for coffee in the middle of Mozondiga, one of them. As ever our croissants and coffee was waiting.
What was interesting about some of these local towns was the underground houses (Chozas) that were set into earth ridges. Whilst some were abandoned others clearly were still lived in. The benefit being the cooler temperature underground away from the heat of the sun. Whilst it stayed dry and hot all day luckily there was some cloud cover so the mercury only got to 30 degrees.
Our next leg of today’s ride was the most enjoyable and had three main elements. Firstly we rode along the rough Camino paths surrounded by endless fields of the most magnificent flowers. There were honestly too many to choose from with pinks, yellows, blues and whites predominating. This accompanied by the wonderful smell of broom which was flowering everywhere.
This slowed our ride down as we had to stop to enjoy the flowers but we did eventually get to the outskirts of the biggest town on our ride today , Leon. Although we had feared it would be difficult to get into, it the truth was the opposite as the traffic remained light and we were able to get to the historical centre easily and cycle round the pedestrianised streets taking in the sights. We even managed to get our credencials stamped.
Leaving Leon we followed the Camino route but using the main road. This is where I made a schoolboy error. Having marked up the route on a map I failed to update it when I changed the satnav routing so got Nigel to wait for us off our programmed route.
Whilst we knew where to find where Nigel and Monica were waiting for us the problem was that in asking Google maps for a reroute it then took us on so called streets of earth and stone slowing our progress further.
Often the paths ran alongside irrigation gullies and it was most impressive to see how much attention and money was invested into watering the crops. There was simply nothing to work out where we were as the landscape was devoid of any remarkable feature so we had to rely on careful following of the phone directions across endless fields which finally got us out of the fields and onto and tarmac road.
Poor Nigel and Monica had been waiting the best part of two and a half hours for our arrival for lunch which was had again after 3.30.
Having taken more care on identifying our next stopping place we left just after 4 not realising this would be the last leg of the day.
Sometimes a leg just gets you from a to b and this was just it. A straight road with no traffic and not much to see It was not hard cycling as there were few hills but it was boring. So although when we got to Sahagun there was still 25 miles to go it was agreed that as it was already 6.30 and the last leg would not be fun we all piled into the camper to go the the campsite in Carrion de los Condes where Nigel conjured up his Thai Chicken Jamie one pot special accompanied by Monica’s coleslaw which was swiftly devoured by one and all.
Today saw Chris take over the pilgrimometer and he only managed 158 so way below Nicks target of 189-210. We expect this number will reduce the further we get from Santiago.
On our arrival at the campsite Dom thought he’d better check his running legs were still working ready for the 75km run in Le Puy. He ran up into the town and did some laps of the castle, although he explained that a pair of Bloodhounds took too much interest in his running causing him to jump up onto a bench until the owner took control.
As I finish this blog at almost 11.30 I can still hear the Cuckoo singing out strongly. I wonder if Nick is sleeping soundly ?
The persistent cuckoo or was that a sore throated robin !
It’s a game of two halves
Posted by nbjtours on June 6, 2024Edit This
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Day Four
Carrion de las Condes to Pradoluengo
67 miles 3612 ft
On a day which celebrates the 80 th anniversary of D-Day and the announcement of the England team for the Euros football tournament our day was very much reflective of what was going on in the wider world.
Whilst cycling across the almost endless Spanish plain we met Uli from Germany who impressively is cycling from the French /German border to Lisbon on her own where her husband will collect her- a trip of 2600 km. Of course the fact that she mistakenly called us handsome boys may be why we liked her so much. However serious kudos to her for such an undertaking unsupported.
We were woken this morning by the sound of the cuckoo at 6am so were off and out before 8.30.
As we were still on the plain the roads were flat and straight as above. We did therefore take the opportunity to take small diversions off the route to visit the Camino villages where nothing much seemed to have changed since the Middle Ages although the growth of the pilgrims has brought money and reinvestment into these out of the way communities.
Today was a busy day with the Chris pilgrimometer registering 419 pilgrims. The most on any day. Few looked happy and they were certainly suffering and taking their penance. Struggling across the featureless plain for several days would take joy out of most we thought.
Each of these pueblos had a few houses, some lived in, some in disrepair, usually a massive church and perhaps other religious buildings and a population of less than 200.
We mostly chose to ride on the road with the Camino path running alongside as our progress was obviously somewhat quicker. For once we made quite good time as our only distractions were calling in at these small places and getting our credencials stamped.
At one point leaving a small town a chap explained to Nick the new high speed train line had cut the path so it was best carry on the road until the next left hand turn and then rejoin the original route. More new infrastructure.
Leaving the last small town before our coffee stop however the street we were on disintegrated into the pilgrims stony track and with coffee only five miles away at Itero de la Vega we thought we would risk it. The stony ascent was a little tricky but coming down the path was smooth gravel and even had a couple of irrigation sprays to cool us down on a day where the temperature rose to over 30. The most fun section of the tour.
The coffee stop was again right next to the Camino path and a on a number of occasions tired looking pilgrims looked longingly at our ample spread of pastries and fruit. Today we were not so generous and did not share our feast.
The terrain started to change a little with more in the way of hills and valleys so we decided to leave the stony pilgrim route and kept to the roads zigzagging along river valleys and over small climbs
In a very small village just off the Camino was a Sephardic Jewish centre in a village that had obviously been settled by the Jews for centuries judging by its name.
As we returned to the Camino route at Castrojeriz we were reminded of the contrast in labour required to farm these days. One guy in a tractor with a special trailer collected and stacked a field in just minutes , but just the other side of the village an old boy with a walk behind grass cutter was sitting exhausted after doing his much smaller field with a lot more work ahead. The countryside towns in Spain are devoid of human beings because they are simply not required.
After climbing the hill out of Castrojeriz we met Uli coming the other way on her epic journey and wished her well before carrying on in opposite directions.
Once again after a further stamp in our credencial the route wanted us to follow the stony Camino path but we decided to road it again. This saw a bit more climbing and the scenery looking more like the bad lands of Dakota with flat topped hills.
Having been up and down a few times and with our lunch stop still 18 miles away we decided a call to International Rescue in Thunderbird Two to change the location was in order and cycling onto the next village the camper arrived with lunch five minutes later.
The next part of the route would take us through the pretty but busy city of Burgos. It was quickly decided to skip a section so we all piled into the camper after lunch to start the other side after a quick restocking at Lidl’s in town. Seeing the amount of traffic and unkind large road we were due to ride we decided it was again the right decision.
Chris decided that he would sit out leg three and starting off in front of the Guardia Civil ( one of whom was happy to give me a high five!) Nick. Dom and Neil set off for the climb up past a dam to our campsite at Pradoluengo
Having climbed up we then had an exhilarating descent complete with a few hairpins before a short climb back up to our very nice but almost deserted campsite and a swim and shower. We were once again accompanied by the sound of at least two cuckoos as we started our dinner.
Dinner today was Salmon and a cucumber salad Nigel claiming to be no expert at cooking fish. I seem to recall him cooking an excellent whole fresh salmon in Norway!
The weather has remained warm and we expect it to be like that again tomorrow although a big Atlantic storm threatens to wipe out the Pyrenees and some of the early French days. Fingers crossed that’s wrong
I finish today with an appropriate photo of cornflowers and poppies together. The symbols of remembrance for France and the UK respectively.
Starting and Finishing Cycling on a High.
Posted by nbjtours on June 7, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Day Five
Pradoluengo to Viania +
67.5 +2.75 miles 3671 ft climbed
Today had some good highs, but also some difficult sections so to have peaks at either end ensured we had an enjoyable day.
We woke to the pitter patter of raindrops but pleasingly they came to very little so we were able to set off early before 8.30.
Even earlier Dom had got up and run up the hill chasing wild boar.
After having left our excellent campsite to the sound of the cuckoo we swiftly started the biggest climb of the day of over 1000ft to the Alto de Pradilla. Luckily for Chris and myself the gradient was never too harsh and we were able to grind our ways up in pursuit of Dom and Nick.
The view tax in ascending was worth it as was the hairpin filled descent so we all wore big grins as we reached the first town some five miles below. As usual the day was filled with the yellow broom and its scent. Climbing this hill we were accompanied by the strong smell of curry. I don’t know what plant or herb caused this but it did remind us of a good Indian.
Even though Ezcaray was hidden deep in the Sierra de la Demanda it did once have a royal seal of approval for its dyeing and fabric works in the 18 th century thanks to English and French know how, but then sadly lost over the years leaving stunning empty buildings just repurposed as a theatre and council offices.
We were then able to continue our descent along a river valley at 25 mph plus following the Cabrera train before an early ontime coffee stop with some exotic local hazelnut pastries. We agreed our next rendezvous on the other side of Santa Domingo de la Calzada where we would rejoin the Camino route.
We arrived and got our credencials stamped just as a group of self obsessed US pilgrims arrived . One explained he had already done the Camino but returned to be able to see the sights! This resulted in a brief spurt in numbers on Chris’s pilgrimometer but it still only got to 98 for the full day.
The next stop was after only a short 14 mile stint, although the general downhill trend was interrupted by a couple of lengthy climbs. This was because we had now entered Rioja country. We therefore stopped for an explanation, wine tasting and purchase. This obviously took some time as you cannot rush these things, so we decided to take lunch just around the corner. As well as vines we saw this hop garden and also a lot of potato fields.
The next section had a strong headwind which made the cycling less than enjoyable. Coming back to running on the Camino meant a bit of the gravel again but on this occasion it was worth it as it enabled us to get to near the heart of the busy city of Logrono via their version of Hayesden Lake.
We then worked our way into the historic centre and got our stamps although did not feel that it came up to the standards of Leon.
An ice cream stop was called for as although the day was overcast it was hot and sticky at 33 degrees with storms forecast. We had arranged to meet the camper 10 miles out of town and after a few steep hills and some tedious running along A roads decided to stop, as only more of the same was to come which is not fun cycling. Our tea stop at Viania was held with the smell of chocolate from the nearby Mondelez factory.
As many of you know I am a great motorsport fan and when planning the route last year mentioned to Nigel that we were passing by the Navarra circuit. By coincidence he happened to be going there transporting some racing cars for off season practice. He had a word with the circuit manager who said ask when you get here. Luckily for us the days practice for the weekend had just finished when we arrived so the green light was given for us all to have a lap of the track, albeit rather slower than the usual occupants. Nigel joined us and as we approached the first bend at probably 15 mph said a superbike is breaking for this at over 200!!! Although Nigel was dropped on the second half of the lap we didn’t have to call out the safety car and he completed the lap smiling. What a great way to finish the day.
We piled back into the camper buzzing at the end of another memorable days cycling to go to the campsite and had guests Stefan and Michelle from Windhoek, Namibia for our steak dinner. They are bravely riding the Camino with little training on a month’s sabbatical from work.
So we ended the day happy at a fun days riding having ridden up a mountain, tasted some wine, ridden round a racing track and chatted to some Namibians. That is cycling on a high.
See ya later Camino
Posted by nbjtours on June 8, 2024Edit This
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Day Six – updated.
Estella-Lizarra to Navascues
61 miles. 5040 ft climbed.
I will attempt to write the blog tonight but have no photos as have poor reception on side of a Pyrenean mountain. I’ll update tomorrow.
Today would be the last day we cycled on the Camino route in Spain before deliberately avoiding Pamplona and then finding a harder mountain pass to climb to cross into France. As we did not have a full day Chris’s pilgrimometer only got to 71.
It remained hot overnight and as the temperature was often exceeding 35C probably the hottest day of this years trip.
We said our goodbyes to Stefan and Michelle from Namibia who very kindly said to call them if we ever visit Windhoek.
Our first off road experience was within half a mile of the campsite and even included some steps – this did mean we all dismounted and then instead of carrying on via the Eurovelo route chose the quiet main road.
The scenery had started to change and was more rolling hills so it was a more interesting ride. The main road avoided all the little Camino villages so we detoured off to collect our stamps and ensure we felt the experience.
As the villages are usually at the top of a hill at one of them there was a sweaty queue of walkers and cyclists waiting to collect their stamp.
Again we kept to the main road with our final camino call a little off track at the unusual octagonal church of St Maria de Eunate. Not only did we collect our last stamp but we also heard ( from outside) some Portuguese nuns singing inside.
It was not far to our coffee stop which Nigel and Monica had found on the edge of a pretty well kept village.
Leaving after coffee we went straight off road on the gravel Eurovelo route so avoiding the ever busier main roads into Pamplona. Returning to the real world we had a minor reroute as the satnav road had been blocked by yet another new road.
This brought us under a magnificent 17 century aqueduct with over twenty arches, before we then had a tough but tedious run of almost 15 miles alongside the motorway on the old road. In the heat this was hard work which we tried to alleviate by rotating the peloton.
Luckily before coming off this road there was a six mile downhill section on wide smooth road where everyone hit well over 40 mph.
Lunch was taken just after 2pm in scorching hot temperatures watching a fellow jump into the river from the bridge.
In theory there was only 30 miles to go but as we were wild camping that could easily be a further 15 uphill miles on top so we decided to complete the next climb and reassess the position in 15 miles.
Although we all completed this leg well the temperature was taking its toll and rather than take on the next up and over it was decided to take the camper to a wild camp site. This was not before an unnecessary jobsworth fireman had told us to move off as we were blocking his exit. We were not!
In the end we found a wild camp off a side road high in the mountains with the tents hidden from view. Incredibly the owner turned up twenty minutes after it had all been put up but Nick charmed him and Nigel gave him a beer so we were allowed to remain where we were, even being invited back to use his bothy.
It’s a terrific pitch with an attractive waterfall a ten minute walk off the road. I even found some Bee and Butterfly Orchid plants I have never seen in the UK.
Chicken with Monica’s Beetroot and Apple Salad was on the menu tonight with the card game ending earlier than usual so the boys could get back to their tents in the light – and before the forecast rain arrived. It has, together with some thunder to break the hot weather. The forecast for the next few days is not favourable but let’s hope that’s wrong.
A great final full day in a very hot Spain, we enjoyed the further Camino villages visited, a couple of cool churches, saw some forlorn Jehovah’s Witnesses trying to convert the pilgrims ( yes really !), the most cyclists during the tour and went flying down some hills before finding this idyllic wild camping spot complete with cow bells and chirping frogs. Let’s hope that Nick is able to read the blog tomorrow morning and his tent has not been washed away in the storm.
Sometimes it’s not meant to be.
Posted by nbjtours on June 9, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Pau-Nay-Pau
35 miles. 873 ft climbed.
Today was meant to be the day we rode over the Pyrenees and into France. However the promised rain and wind put paid to any cycling over the mountains. Although initially upset by not cycling as we reached the summit you could hardly see 30 metres in front and the van was buffeted by the gusty wind. It was a good decision.
This was the complete opposite to the last time I had been over this pass when completing the end to end ride as it had rained all across France but cleared the day I was due over.
This morning everyone was still alive and the cows had not trampled the tents, although they did decide to come up to the field the tents were in just after we had packed up. Chris was especially pleased as he was worried a cow may fall and crush him while still in his sleeping bag. He did think this was the best wild camp site we had had since the olive grove back in 2015 and does ensure the proper nbjtours experience.
Going down the van’s brake warning light came on and with probably nearly 4 tonnes trying to be stopped Nigel played it safely although knew he had new pads so it should not have been a problem. They were definitely hot though. A check later proved it was the brake sensor that came loose which we had suspected so no harm done
Having come down the main part of the mountain we saw a stall selling hot roast chicken and stopped to buy a couple. We also had to take a diversion from the usual route as a rally had closed the road and a few competition cars went by.
A short stop to devour one of the two chickens with some fresh bread decided we would go to the campsite and try to ride later when the weather improved. Having set up the tents and the rain stopped I quickly devised an impromptu ride along the river to Nay and back.
Although we had a couple of light splashes of rain it amounted to nothing and we enjoyed a flattish speed out of town.
One thing we have noticed around here is that for some reason most of the towns have their signs turned upside down. If anyone knows please send in their answer.
Coming into Pau we found ourselves on the grid for the Pau GP street circuit so a quick change of route and we managed a lap of a track. It was originally set up to rival Monaco and saw its heyday from the 60’s to the 80’s and is still used annually for classic car events.
We then had a quick tour round Pau including a particularly steep ramp next to the chateau.
After our visit we rode back pleased to have been able to get some riding in and the weather even improved further this evening. Tomorrow’s forecast has improved and we are hopeful of a full day’s riding
We still had another of those chickens to eat for dinner so with coleslaw and potatoes we did manage to eat outside as usual with some sun appearing.
Nick was happy as he found a couple of goats some chickens and this bizarre rabbit on our campsite so attacked cards with more confidence than before. Although judging by the crying it appears somewhat misplaced.
We could have become despondent about a missed opportunity because of the weather but there’s no point doing that so our afternoon ride incorporating another racing circuit was a fair replacement. We are ready to bring on tomorrow.
The (Longest) Muddiest Day or Bad Boys: Ride or Die.
Posted by nbjtours on June 10, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. Leave a comment
Pau to Condom
100 miles 5715 ft climbed
There are some days that are truly unforgettable and great. This will be one of those. Not only did we have a great day cycling in France across their smooth and quiet roads but starting the last leg from Eauze to Condom along a tarmaced converted railway cycle path, we expected a safe and easy finish to the day. We had just said how superb it was when we came across two sections just covered in thick sticky mud as above.
Luckily it was only these two early sections of the cycle path that were especially bad but after this we tried to clean up the bikes using out water bottles to spray the mud off
The rain we had over the mountains yesterday had been a much worse storm in this part of France and as can be seen above brought a number of trees down that had yet to be cleared . We also saw some landslides and closed roads where the road surface had been completely lifted by the water. So whilst we may have struggled a little on the mud the paved cycle path was probably still the best option especially as I was unable to use my small cog as it remained totally clogged up with thick oozy mud.
Note: Dom saw this film Bad Boys:Ride or Die about to be shown at the local cinema and thought it suitable to describe our efforts as after leaving camp this morning at 8.30 we only rocked into our new site at Condom at 8pm this evening.
This mud was far removed from our start near Pau where to escape the busy city we had to navigate some larger noisy roads before escaping to the quieter country lanes. As soon as we did everything calmed down and we started to enjoy the ride.
This section then found its way next to the Pau-Arnos racing track which looks a fun multi levelled circuit tucked away in the middle of farmland. We continued cycling up and down across the river valleys with often short and very steep ramps but enjoyed the good roads
Just before our on time coffee stop. we met this dog whose owner said he was too friendly. Leaving after coffee we saw our first pilgrims of the day near Arzacq-Arraziguet as we rejoined the pilgrims trail. Chris’s pilgrimometer got to 41 today. Nick didn’t want to be left out and decided to count dogs instead and got to 32. At one stage after just the morning session he had counted more dogs than humans as the small villages we cycled through were all deserted.
We also managed to get our credentials signed & stamped for the first time in France at the tourist office in the town. Our route then took us up and down through quiet countryside to get to Aire sur L’Adour where we saw a few more pilgrims but we unable to get our credentials stamped as it was lunchtime. Nigel, Monica and I had camped here on the previous trip but we had further to go this time.
Our lunch stop was tucked behind a church but that didn’t stop Monica hanging out her smalls. If needs must they say. As ever we tucked into our French bread sandwiches although it appeared that Dom who is our most powerful athlete then succumbed to a food coma and fell asleep just whilst sitting on a bench. Whilst this did not mean we think we could beat him it did show that he was trying harder than he made out. We therefore left later than anticipated for the next leg which we decide would be at Eauze.
Shortly after lunch we came to Nogaro where we chatted with a French teacher of English wearing his Gloucester rugby top. We got our stamps and then visited another motor racing circuit on the outskirts of town, although they would not allow us a cycle round! That’s four for the trip.
Although this next stage was not long it became longer as we came across a closed road. Luckily , just before attempting to go round the barriers as usual , a lady who lived next door to them explained that it was not passable even for cyclists as a car had fallen into a gap where the bridge should have been last night. Luckily both occupants escaped drowning. This involved us in a u turn and a longer way to the tea stop.
We did however manage our third stamp of the day in Eauze where a pilgrim berated Chris for not speaking French and explained he had been told to walk on the road because of the mud blocking paths. We should have understood better what he was going on about but we then joined Nigel and Monica for our tea stop.
Leaving Eauze we then joined the voie verte cycle path along an old railway line. Perhaps we should have guessed there may be issues because of the storms yesterday but until we hit these two patches of mud, mudslides, closed roads and fallen trees had not realised how bad this had been.
Whilst we were concerned at the effect of being clogged up with mud it did make us laugh to think how we had been slowed down. Some minor cleaning of the bikes by using leaves twigs and water to try to scrape and wash the mud off made some difference and at least enabled us to join a Cabrera train to complete the 14 miles to the campsite.
Nigel had been pre-warned to get the hose out and he manfully cleaned all the mud off the bikes whilst Monica sorted out a large spag bol for some very hungry cyclists who had completed 100 miles in some unusual circumstances.
On the trip to the supermarket today Nigel had thought a change to the Spanish beer we had been enjoying was due and found some cans of a brew that boasted 7, 8 and 11% strength. Suffice to say the cards were louder than normal this evening, sadly for Nick it made no difference to the result and he remained winless this tour so far.
The weather held good all day and was not too hot and enjoyed the better cycling on quiet and varied French roads. The detour and drama of the mud covered path eventually meant we finally got to a three figure distance for the only time this trip. A terrific fun filled long day in the saddle. The most enjoyable day of the tour so far.
Catch the Rabbit
Posted by nbjtours on June 11, 2024Edit This
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Condom to Cahors
83 miles 4236 ft climbed
We were coming up the our tea stop which was perhaps a couple of miles away when Nick saw a cyclist turn round in front and start pedalling. Dangling a carrot like that is all it takes Nick to accelerate and try to catch that cyclist. Chris thought who’s Nick after as he quickly caught this cyclist and then ran alongside him. In fact he only found out who it was when Nick and Nigel turned into the car park next to the Mairie ! Unfortunately we don’t have a photo of Nigel’s brief escape onto two self propelled wheels and hope he doesn’t like it too much as we would lose our expert support driver.
Leaving the campsite at our standard time of 8.30 we went out over a lock and then into the town and had a Quick Look round its magnificent cathedral.
Running along a square out of town we saw the Tourist Information Office lady go in to open up and I was cheeky enough to ask if she would stamp our credencials, despite it being advertised not to open for another hour. She was only too happy to help. Just leaving town we saw the camper outside a patisserie so we dive bombed them to check out what we had for our coffee stop.
Swiftly turning off the main road there was a concern as the road turned into a muddy track. Although Chris had a minor stop all was well and the mud only was for 500m before it returned to tarmac as the last thing we wanted was a repeat of yesterday’s dramas.
The route then went up and down several river valleys passing small deserted towns and villages. Our favourite for this leg of the route was La Romieu which was an original pilgrim town in the Middle Ages and still boasted the original college and its cloister.
It was not warm for much of the day with showers around. Whilst we did cycle on wet roads a couple of times the water from above only gave the briefest of splatters – not enough to worry about or require rain jackets. The coffee stop was chilly but dry and we set off still on schedule for some more up a hill, down a hill and over the river riding.
The lunch stop was at Astaffort which appeared a poor town in need of money. Some fresh bread mated with yesterday’s excess bolognese went down well.
The next section was probably the most interesting and included the pretty village of Caudecoste and its wooden colonnade framed square.
Shortly after this we had a great off road section running alongside a canal for a few miles. The most extraordinary thing we saw were two fully bike pack laden chaps on unicycles going the other way. We just hoped they wouldn’t get a wobble on and fall in.
We also saw many orchards of plum and apples draped in anti bird netting as we are in the Pruneaux d’Agen DOP area.
Going through the town of Valence d’Agen where the market was closing and the tourist office closed, Dom decided to go in the fountain!
Coming up to the tea stop we then met Nigel on his bike and had a swift stop where Chris decided his bottom needed saving so stayed in the camper whist the other three of us continued up the river valley before enjoying a super 4 km descent towards Cahors. The only let down being that we then had a steep climb to avoid the main road and had to come into town another way.
Calling into Cahors to get our credencials stamped, the army were putting on some sort of parade as a helicopter landed in the town square and they appeared to be trying to devise a display in front of the top brass ad hoc whilst we were there for five minutes. I’m sure it will be fine but it looked like typical French organisation. Great idea but a bit last minute.com.
A short ride back to the campsite and a duck and chicory salad for dinner awaited so the cyclists as ever enjoyed a top evening.
As we had for once had a reasonably speedy day with fewer stops enjoying the quiet French roads we finished before 6 so there was time for extra cards where there were signs of improvement for Nick.
Only three days left to get to Le Puy and the weather forecast appears to be improving slightly.
Another good day where the final Pilgrimometer only got to 11 which was equal to Nick’s dog count.
I leave you with this picture of Chris being pinned down by the tips of the musketeers swords in Condom.
Can I have one of everything?
Posted by nbjtours on June 12, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. Leave a comment
Cahors to Conques
88 miles 3271ft climbed
We had just arrived inside the Delfour biscuit factory showroom ( http://www.biscuiteriedelfour.fr) and been shown around the various biscuits and cakes when Dom pronounced his desires. Now we’re unsure if he truly meant this but after being given a panier managed to fill it with as much as he could before deciding that was as much as he ought to take.
Suffice to say that the owners were very happy that Dom and the rest of us had come to visit. She told us that they started in 1920 making local versions of the Madeleine called Maryleines and the business still remains in the family four generations later running from the same farm using converted barns halfway up the hillside.
Going back to the start of the day we decided to go back into Cahors as we missed the defining image of the city. It’s famous bridge.
Not only did we see it and ride across Chris was able to start his pilgrimometer early. The total for the day getting to 39. Nicks dogometer started very slowly but did have a late burst to get to 24.
The extra run into Cahors added five miles to today’s total. We then ran out of town along the river Lot which we followed almost all day.
To get to the biscuit factory we had the most aggressive climb of the day allowing us this super view over the Lot. Whilst in a straight line our cycle today may have only been 50 odd miles the river meandered back and forth inbetween its gorge walls all day. Not only did this mean extra miles but with a strong northerly wind we would alternately get a head or tailwind.
After the biscuit factory visit we were able to enjoy a swift downhill before then running by the picturesque Lot.
We swung from right to left of the river trying to avoid the busier main road although whenever we did find ourselves on it for a mile or so a call went out to the Cabrera train to speed us along.
At one stage we joined a cycle path that was cut out of the rock face and this was another first for one of our trips. Mostly it was ok but there were a couple of rough sections where we had to be careful not to get pinch flats.
In addition there was no side to the path so when passing walkers extra care was required on the slippery stone. Moving out of the cut rock face we then had to dismount to get past a lorry working on the repairs to a lock gate.
The scenery was some of the prettiest of the tour so far with the limestone walls of the gorge cut out by the river.
Whilst I’ve not mentioned the roadside flowers much we have continued to see orchids everyday and had a few more unusual and lime specific plant specimens today.
Our lunch stop was beneath a small village and the rabbit that we saw yesterday was once again out on his bike about two miles beforehand to tease Nick again.
As we were gradually climbing all day the road was mostly slightly uphill but on a couple of occasions it looked as though we were cycling downhill because of the rock strata. Very strange.
Whilst some towns and villages were clearly lived in there were many abandoned properties ripe for conversion and we constantly crossed an abandoned railway which must have been one of the most scenic ever built.
Towards the end of the ride we turned off the larger Lot valley to get to Conques although we remained without a new stamp in our pilgrims passport because the two places we checked out had their tourist office closed today.
We did have a tea stop as it was not the warmest of days but the sun shone more often than not. Nick however did feel the need to put his arm warmers back on before setting off for the final leg which meant this became the second longest day of the tour.
Because it was cooler the pork chops with Monica’s creamed mustard sauce and asparagus & potatoes was a huge hit. Nick’s partial success at cards last night deserted him as Dom trounced the opposition this evening with Nick failing to bother the scoreboard. Such a difference to last year.
A super days cycling in comfortable conditions and fabulous scenery as well as a bit of a mixture on cycle path and road whilst climbing gently. We now have but two tough hilly days left to complete the trip.
Cool
Posted by nbjtours on June 13, 2024Edit This
Conques to St Chely d’Aubrac
54.70miles 5110ft climbed
Today was cool in so many ways. It was certainly very cool first thing in the morning when we got up as it was only six degrees. We visited a number of very cool towns and villages. The tunnels we went through were very cool and everyone was very cool in deciding we had done enough cycling for the day so did not do the last 25 miles and piled into the camper to enjoy an incredible day. Here’s the story.
As we had arrived too late to get our credencials stamped yesterday we agreed to climb up to the pretty town of Conques as the tourist office was due to open at 9 am. After the climb up and finding the office. It said it did not open until 9.30. We couldn’t wait that long but when I tried the door it opened and although the lady was not too happy she did finally agree to stamp our credencials, but was very keen to point out that she was not open until 9.30! After we left I heard her very firmly lock the door.
We then spied Monica and Nigel so joined them in the pastry acquisition, with some special requests including prune pasties as well as the standard croissants and pains.
The route followed the river Dourdou switching sides beneath high valley sides, the lush fields still being planted out by hand. It must take several days to do a field of this size.
Continuing along this pretty river valley we finally started to reach its head. This involved a climb up to the village of La Rodelle which is perched on a narrow rocky prominentry.
Nigel had set the camper up in the rubbish recycling area overlooking the valley and there we enjoyed our earlier purchases from the patisserie in Conques.
The next segment of the day was the most fun and most unexpected. We left La Rodelle and agreed to meet just 25 miles up the road after a long downhill and just halfway up the big hill.
However the best laid plans do get disrupted. We knew that we would go through the pretty towns of Bouzols and Espalion, but did not count on the cycle track that connected them.
After cycling through Bouzols we joined the poorly marked and very lightly used cycle track. The next ten kilometres were some of the most fun and slow downhill cycling we have had. The surface was not really suitable for road bikes but it was ok and quite often we were running with long grass smacking our hands
We turned a corner and were then confronted by an unlit big black tunnel over half a kilometre long. Nick fearful of the effects of dark cycling asked Dom and Neil, Who both had lights to take the lead. He then found a switch on the tunnel side which turned them on anyway.
Not only were there five tunnels but we also had four viaducts to traverse. The railway that wound its way up to Bouzols from Espalion was built in 1903-5 but closed to passenger traffic before world war two and freight in 1980 and was more or less a constant 3% gradient.
Instead of taking 15 minutes or less to get down we took the best part of an hour looking at the sights and navigating our way. A call was therefore put out to Thunderbird 2 to bring our lunch stop forward a few miles.
We then made our way to get our credencials stamped in Espalion and crossed its famous bridge. The lady in the tourist office explained they were unable to fully advertise the cycle path because it did not meet full voie verte standards. What a shame as it is great.
So lunch was by the river at St Come d’Olt before we then left for the first of two mighty climbs. Although the air temperature Remained cold, any time in the sun made it much warmer. Nigel had agreed to meet us at the first summit following over 2000 feet climbing and we could then decide a plan
We met Nigel at the top and decided to go down to St Chely d’Aubrac where we managed a further stamp and were advised it takes an hour to drive to our destination so cycling would be at least three and it was already gone five. Calculating we would not finish until well after eight we piled into the camper for a cheats ride to the next camp site.
We saw great stands of pyramid orchids as well as the common spotted orchid and many butterflies. Nick spotted a huge snake (he said at least four feet long!) slithering across his path but was unsure its type and I saw a large foot long European green lizard run across in front of me whilst climbing that last hill. Roger, I’ll try to put together a flora and fauna special for you next week.
During the day Nick decided that if he were to be able to beat Chris’s pilgrimometer he would have to adopt a catanddogometer. Following seeing the cats above this led to the closest competition of the week with the lead changing hands a few times. However Chris’s pilgrims finally came out easy winners 66 to 39.
Dinner of merguez, mash and veggies had to be eaten inside as it was so cool at an altitude of over 1000 metres. It was followed as usual by ice cream and cards. Chris and Nick confirming their places as top and bottom of the scoresheet.
This was a very cool penultimate day for many reasons and we will be sad to end the latest trip. It will be a tough 65 miles remaining tomorrow so we aim to be up early and attacking those hills again to get to Le Puy on time so Dom can sign on for his 75km run.
Camino’s End
Posted by nbjtours on June 14, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 2 Comments
Aumont-Aubrac to Le Puy en Velay
60 miles. 4900 ft climbed
Sorry I am updating this blog a bit late as it has been a hectic few hours since our successful arrival in Le Puy on Friday.
We started our last day in Aumont- Aubrac where it was cool and overcast. As usual Nigel sorted out the porridge, tea and coffees and we set off early soon after 7.30 as we needed to get to Le Puy before 4. Dom had to sign on for his trail race by then and we knew there were two big climbs during the day.
The first climb took us up onto the Aubrac plateau in an area known as La Margaride which being at around 1300m above sea level was cool at this time of day so we all had long sleeves and for a while donned rain jackets to keep off the wind.
We had arranged a first early stop which was by the European Bison preservation park who kindly let us use there car park and even stamped our credencials! There was also a few wild narcissi in the fields as well as pretty violas on the roadside.
I decided on a minor amendment to the route as did not fancy any more rough off road tracks and we enjoyed and good down hill and running next to a river for some time. Unbelievably I then had our first puncture on the whole trip just 500m from meeting the camper for our final coffee stop near the top of our final big climb. As we were almost in sight of the camper Nigel hopped in his bike with the stirrup pump so as not to waste any co2 cartridges.
A short cycle from there up to Lac du Bouchet for a brief lunch stop before our final leg of the tour into Le Puy remained. I also prevented the welcoming committee of our expected arrival.
The last section I had planned to run all the way down the former railway from Costaros to Le Puy, now a voie verte, although it was not a fully paved one and the gravel was a bit deep for road bikes. However it did make up for it with a few tunnels and viaducts. The best one over 1 km long.
Just after existing this long tunnel however the next tunnel was closed for repairs until the summer holidays so once again a bit of rerouting meant going down into Le Puy on the main road for the final six miles. We navigated the traffic and then climbed up to the cathedral where Dom could sign on for his race with 45 minutes to spare.
We were met by family, friends and the twinning committee from Le Puy and hugs all around.
Our final act was then to go into the cathedral to get our credencials stamped in the Sacristy to confirm that we had completed our latest adventure.
The weekend starts for the dozen runners from Tonbridge (including Dom) on the Saturday and I will add some updates on that later as well as a reflection piece as usual.
But for now we have completed the Camino in reverse.
Reflections & Trail Weekend
Posted by nbjtours on June 18, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 5 Comments
Well that’s the end of another successful adventure. We cycled ( mostly) from the top corner of Spain to the middle of France and were met with a hero’s welcome.
The weekend did not stop and our fellow trail runners all successfully completed their runs across the very hilly terrain.
Special mentions have to go out to Dom “the machine” Boullé who completed his 80 km run the day after cycling there with us and to Lloyd who completed the 133km ultra with very second hand feet in over 27 hours.
Following the final event on the Sunday the two teams were invited to a celebratory reception and alfresco meal courtesy of the Le Puy Twinning Committee where we were all showered with gifts. A really fitting way to end what had been a great two weeks.
This has been another great adventure and it is worth trying to consider our highs and lows and those stand out moments.
If we look overall the whole team agreed that cycling in France beat cycling in Spain as there is more variety and choice when it comes to quiet lanes. Although Spanish drivers respect cyclists the way Spain just builds new roads over old does make it difficult to route from a to b on occasion.
One of the differences on this trip was because we were ( sort of) following the Camino we had some reason to visit many of the beautiful places en route to try to get our pilgrims passports stamped. This gave this trip a slightly different focus and it was quite fun to call into churches, cafes and tourist offices to get the credencial stamped.
I asked the team for some of their stand out moments and in no particular order or category here they are.
Best Day
This was a toss up of the two penultimate days running by the river Lot to and from Conques with quiet roads beautiful scenery and good weather. We also thought Conques was probably the prettiest town helped by the fact we were there before the hordes of tourists arrived.
Most memorable day
The longest muddiest day which took almost 12 hours when we got stuck in the mud and resorted to cleaning our bikes with our water bottles.
Worst day
The heat across the Spanish Plain when we had to negotiate across vast fields along rough tracks to get to our next stop. How we did not get a puncture then and then waited until the last day for our only mechanical mishap was a great relief.
Best Campsite
This depends on what you are looking for. The poshest with swimming pool and facilities was at La Trapera but perhaps the most stunning and atmospheric was in a field in the foothills of the Pyrenees with cowbells ringing.
Best Section
It may be the lap of the Navarra race track as that was a fun way to end the day. The section running over the overhanging rock face or the first of our two abandoned railway tracks that led through numerous tunnels and over viaducts between Bouzols and Espalion.
Worst Day
Obviously the day we couldn’t ride over the Pyrenees as the weather was so poor, but otherwise the two days pounding across the Spanish Plain with little to see in 35 degree heat. There is no desire amongst any of us to walk the Camino.
Happiest Person
Probably Uli, the German lady, we met cycling the other way on her own from the German border to Lisbon, where her husband would pick her up.
Funniest Moment
Clearly Nick provides most of these, although Nigel trying to play cards seriously after a can of 11% lager was certainly up there.
Dom declaring he wanted one of everything in the biscuit factory visit.
Probably though Nick’s efforts at trying to beat Chris’s pilgrimometer by starting a dog count, adding cats and then trying to include sheep and bison ( that he had not even seen ) caused the most hilarity.
Athlete of the trip
Dom “The Machine” Boullé was in an uncontested position although Nick the diesel train was the go to lead peloton rider.
Bird of the trip
Well it would be good to say the Cuckoo. However we did only hear it for four days so cannot really. Storks abounded in Spain nesting on anything tall we counted as many as five nests on the roof on one church.
Nick took to his Merlin bird app to listen to the birdsong and in Spain the most often heard was the Serin and in France the Blackcap.
But the bird we saw most of flying and diving above was the Red Kite much as we get now in the U.K.
Scent and Flowering Shrub of the Tour
Unquestionably the bright yellow broom which accompanied the trip from the first day until the last. We could often smell it before we saw its yellow brightening up the hillsides.
Flower of the Tour
The orchid. A bit like in Ireland where we saw many types. Here we had both variety of orchid and volume, certainly in the last few days in France where there were great stands of purple pyramid orchids on every roadside verge.
Meal of the Tour
This was close but the duck just won over the pork in mustard sauce.
Highjacking Nigel and Monica’s patisserie buying also produced some special local variations on the coffee stops. We will certainly miss having at least two pastries a day !!!
You still can’t beat Monica’s Beetroot and apple salad though!
Team of the Tour
Without question Nigel and Monica who provide support that most can only dream of with a smile and enthusiasm to beat.
Running out of the tour hub that is the camper, we keep trying to settle on a name but Thunderbird Two does seem appropriate as it comes to the rescue carrying various specialist pods.
What’s Next
Well this was to be the last tour but having been one of the most enjoyable and successful, plans are afoot to do it all again on some different roads with different priorities.
Watch this space and thank you for your support.
The Camino Tour : Flora & Fauna
Posted by nbjtours on July 3, 2024Edit This
Posted in: Cycling. 3 Comments
Now the dust has settled on our epic journey, at Roger’s request, I have put together a few thoughts and photos ( we took hundreds) of the stunning and varied wild flowers which genuinely amazed and enthralled us during the two weeks.
Of course as we cycled from windy coastal points, over mountains, across high dry plains and rolling countryside in spring we had the added benefit of these different habitats, but genuinely the variety and beauty all the way along was a real pleasure.
Before tackling the plants it is also worth looking at what other wildlife we saw or heard.
Birds
Of course we see more birds than other sorts of wildlife. As well as the Cuckoo on four days and Kites and Buzzards most days we think we did see some European Vultures as we approached the Pyrenees.
In Western Spain there were plenty of Storks and we took to counting the number of nests on church roofs and spires. I think the maximum was five on one church.
Nick became slightly obsessed with his Merlin ID birdsong identifier with the Serin, Blackcap, Chaffinch, Wren and Blackbird being the most heard.
Although you have to take some of the supposed birds identities with a pinch of salt ( I know these apps are not always correct) Nicks favourite quoted was the Zitting Cisticola. It turns out it’s another LBJ ( Little Brown Job) whose name is more interesting than its looks!
Mammals
These are always tricky to spot except for the roadkill and whilst we did see a couple of deer I think we get more of these around Tonbridge.
Our most impressive sightings were on a misty morning climbing out of Sarria in Galicia when we saw two Pine Martens run across the road in front of us. One stopping to check we successfully cycled past.
Reptiles & Amphibians
We only saw squashed frogs but very often heard their croaking during the day or at camp.
Whilst we did see many flat snakes and the usual hordes of small lizards scuttling in the crevices of walls. Nick says he almost ran a brown snake over whilst descending one of the railway voie vertes in France.
I also saw a large ( over a foot long) almost dayglow green lizard run across as I was struggling up the last hill in France. On looking it up it later it is very helpfully called a European Green lizard. Literal names make so much sense!
We did see many butterflies but not too many large or ultra colourful ones and pleasingly there weren’t too many mosquitoes about either!
Flowers and Shrubs
Clearly the number one was Broom as we saw its bright yellow everyday and smelt its scent too.
Perhaps the most beautiful flowers we saw were various varieties of Orchid which became more numerous as we neared the Pyrenees. We saw many types on our damp circuit of Ireland too so perhaps the wet spring in this part of Europe also helped the Orchids.
Easily the most numerous and found in stands along roadsides and particularly along the old railway lines we cycled were Pyramid Orchids.
Early on in Spain we spotted this similar coloured to the Pyramid Orchid but distinct species.
Spotting the Bee and Butterfly Orchids adjacent to one another in the foothills of the Pyrenees was stunning. However I did see them together again a couple of days later in France so wonder if they are unlikely bedfellows.
In trying to put this together I was struggling on how to categorise what we saw and make some logic to our sights especially where photos do not really show the true wonder of swathes of single or mixed colours that in normal times you would say should not be put together.
As you can see above the photos are ok but all I can say is that you have to see them in real life to get the proper impact of the swathes of colour in Big open fields.
When we got to the Massif Central it was noticeable that we came across very much more environment specific flowers and plants affected by the cooler temperatures, high altitude and limestone soils.
I was pleased we just got to see a few of the last of the wild Narcissus that can fill the high fields in this area after the wild daffodils have faded.
Plants can either be damp loving or stone hugging and we saw both of these types.
Of course we saw many of the common types of flowers we get back in the U.K. with many foxgloves, campions ( red, white and bladder) but trying to keep to the more exotic or unusual Dom & I spotted this which looked a bit like a foxglove.
Well it is a small yellow foxglove or Dead Men’s Thimbles, which seems appropriate as it remains full of poisonous digitalis.
I guess it was the sheer variety and different colours that made us all so aware of what we saw. We do have wild flowers in the U.K. but their numbers are lower and we tend to have many in clumps such as bluebells or oxeye daisies but all along the roadsides in Spain and France different species were vying with one another for superiority.
In amongst all these so called wild flowers we saw the ancestors of many of our coveted garden favourites.
There were many varieties of the legume (pea) family which were normally yellow or pink but are characterised by the shape of their flowers.
Obviously many of these plants had medicinal or herbal uses judging by their historical names.
Thyme, Fennel and mint were often by the roadside and their distinctive scents rose if crushed whenever we wandered onto the verges.
There were many other flowers too, including familiar ones such as forget me not, vipers bugloss, speedwell, daisies and buttercups to name a few, but I don’t just want to send a load of pictures. However what these do show are the variety colour size and shape of the wonders we saw.
Undoubtedly this was in part because we travelled in late spring/ early summer, next year we will either be riding in late June or early. September so may not get the same diversity.
Plants look great in gardens but when you see them in the wild naturally drifting and mixing together or creating red, blue, yellow, pink or white fields that is truly wonderous. You just have to get out there on your bike to go see it. ( or enjoy our magnificent bluebell woods)
I hope you enjoyed this extra edition, I’ll leave you with this photo of a truly magnificent Pyramid Orchid that would grace any garden and put most flowers in the shade- almost literally as it was so big!
See you next year.
nbjtours 