nbjtours

Pau-Nay-Pau

35 miles. 873 ft climbed.

Today was meant to be the day we rode over the Pyrenees and into France. However the promised rain and wind put paid to any cycling over the mountains. Although initially upset by not cycling as we reached the summit you could hardly see 30 metres in front and the van was buffeted by the gusty wind. It was a good decision.

This was the complete opposite to the last time I had been over this pass when completing the end to end ride as it had rained all across France but cleared the day I was due over.

This morning everyone was still alive and the cows had not trampled the tents, although they did decide to come up to the field the tents were in just after we had packed up. Chris was especially pleased as he was worried a cow may fall and crush him while still in his sleeping bag. He did think this was the best wild camp site we had had since the olive grove back in 2015 and does ensure the proper nbjtours experience.

Going down the van’s brake warning light came on and with probably nearly 4 tonnes trying to be stopped Nigel played it safely although knew he had new pads so it should not have been a problem. They were definitely hot though. A check later proved it was the brake sensor that came loose which we had suspected so no harm done

Having come down the main part of the mountain we saw a stall selling hot roast chicken and stopped to buy a couple. We also had to take a diversion from the usual route as a rally had closed the road and a few competition cars went by.

A short stop to devour one of the two chickens with some fresh bread decided we would go to the campsite and try to ride later when the weather improved. Having set up the tents and the rain stopped I quickly devised an impromptu ride along the river to Nay and back.

Although we had a couple of light splashes of rain it amounted to nothing and we enjoyed a flattish speed out of town.

One thing we have noticed around here is that for some reason most of the towns have their signs turned upside down. If anyone knows please send in their answer.

Coming into Pau we found ourselves on the grid for the Pau GP street circuit so a quick change of route and we managed a lap of a track. It was originally set up to rival Monaco and saw its heyday from the 60’s to the 80’s and is still used annually for classic car events.

We then had a quick tour round Pau including a particularly steep ramp next to the chateau.

After our visit we rode back pleased to have been able to get some riding in and the weather even improved further this evening. Tomorrow’s forecast has improved and we are hopeful of a full day’s riding

We still had another of those chickens to eat for dinner so with coleslaw and potatoes we did manage to eat outside as usual with some sun appearing.

Nick was happy as he found a couple of goats some chickens and this bizarre rabbit on our campsite so attacked cards with more confidence than before. Although judging by the crying it appears somewhat misplaced.

We could have become dispondant about a missed opportunity because of the weather but there’s no point doing that so our afternoon ride incorporating another racing circuit was a fair replacement. We are ready to bring on tomorrow.

Day Six – updated.

Estella-Lizarra to Navascues

61 miles. 5040 ft climbed.

I will attempt to write the blog tonight but have no photos as have poor reception on side of a Pyrenean mountain. I’ll update tomorrow.

Today would be the last day we cycled on the Camino route in Spain before deliberately avoiding Pamplona and then finding a harder mountain pass to climb to cross into France. As we did not have a full day Chris’s pilgrimometer only got to 71.

It remained hot overnight and as the temperature was often exceeding 35C probably the hottest day of this years trip.

We said our goodbyes to Stefan and Michelle from Namibia who very kindly said to call them if we ever visit Windhoek.

Our first off road experience was within half a mile of the campsite and even included some steps – this did mean we all dismounted and then instead of carrying on via the Eurovelo route chose the quiet main road.

The scenery had started to change and was more rolling hills so it was a more interesting ride. The main road avoided all the little Camino villages so we detoured off to collect our stamps and ensure we felt the experience.

As the villages are usually at the top of a hill at one of them there was a sweaty queue of walkers and cyclists waiting to collect their stamp.

Again we kept to the main road with our final camino call a little off track at the unusual octagonal church of St Maria de Eunate. Not only did we collect our last stamp but we also heard ( from outside) some Portuguese nuns singing inside.

It was not far to our coffee stop which Nigel and Monica had found on the edge of a pretty well kept village.

Leaving after coffee we went straight off road on the gravel Eurovelo route so avoiding the ever busier main roads into Pamplona. Returning to the real world we had a minor reroute as the satnav road had been blocked by yet another new road.

This brought us under a magnificent 17 century aqueduct with over twenty arches, before we then had a tough but tedious run of almost 15 miles alongside the motorway on the old road. In the heat this was hard work which we tried to alleviate by rotating the peloton.

Luckily before coming off this road there was a six mile downhill section on wide smooth road where everyone hit well over 40 mph.

Lunch was taken just after 2pm in scorching hot temperatures watching a fellow jump into the river from the bridge.

In theory there was only 30 miles to go but as we were wild camping that could easily be a further 15 uphill miles on top so we decided to complete the next climb and reassess the position in 15 miles.

Although we all completed this leg well the temperature was taking its toll and rather than take on the next up and over it was decided to take the camper to a wild camp site. This was not before an unnecessary jobsworth fireman had told us to move off as we were blocking his exit. We were not!

In the end we found a wild camp off a side road high in the mountains with the tents hidden from view. Incredibly the owner turned up twenty minutes after it had all been put up but Nick charmed him and Nigel gave him a beer so we were allowed to remain where we were, even being invited back to use his bothy.

It’s a terrific pitch with an attractive waterfall a ten minute walk off the road. I even found some Bee and Butterfly Orchid plants I have never seen in the UK.

Chicken with Monica’s Beetroot and Apple Salad was on the menu tonight with the card game ending earlier than usual so the boys could get back to their tents in the light – and before the forecast rain arrived. It has, together with some thunder to break the hot weather. The forecast for the next few days is not favourable but let’s hope that’s wrong.

A great final full day in a very hot Spain, we enjoyed the further Camino villages visited, a couple of cool churches, saw some forlorn Jehovah’s Witnesses trying to convert the pilgrims ( yes really !), the most cyclists during the tour and went flying down some hills before finding this idyllic wild camping spot complete with cow bells and chirping frogs. Let’s hope that Nick is able to read the blog tomorrow morning and his tent has not been washed away in the storm.

Day Five

Pradoluengo to Viania +

67.5 +2.75 miles 3671 ft climbed

Today had some good highs, but also some difficult sections so to have peaks at either end ensured we had an enjoyable day.

We woke to the pitter patter of raindrops but pleasingly they came to very little so we were able to set off early before 8.30.

Even earlier Dom had got up and run up the hill chasing wild boar.

After having left our excellent campsite to the sound of the cuckoo we swiftly started the biggest climb of the day of over 1000ft to the Alto de Pradilla. Luckily for Chris and myself the gradient was never too harsh and we were able to grind our ways up in pursuit of Dom and Nick.

The view tax in ascending was worth it as was the hairpin filled descent so we all wore big grins as we reached the first town some five miles below. As usual the day was filled with the yellow broom and its scent. Climbing this hill we were accompanied by the strong smell of curry. I don’t know what plant or herb caused this but it did remind us of a good Indian.

Even though Ezcaray was hidden deep in the Sierra de la Demanda it did once have a royal seal of approval for its dyeing and fabric works in the 18 th century thanks to English and French know how, but then sadly lost over the years leaving stunning empty buildings just repurposed as a theatre and council offices.

We were then able to continue our descent along a river valley at 25 mph plus following the Cabrera train before an early ontime coffee stop with some exotic local hazelnut pastries. We agreed our next rendezvous on the other side of Santa Domingo de la Calzada where we would rejoin the Camino route.

We arrived and got our credencials stamped just as a group of self obsessed US pilgrims arrived . One explained he had already done the Camino but returned to be able to see the sights! This resulted in a brief spurt in numbers on Chris’s pilgrimometer but it still only got to 98 for the full day.

The next stop was after only a short 14 mile stint, although the general downhill trend was interrupted by a couple of lengthy climbs. This was because we had now entered Rioja country. We therefore stopped for an explanation, wine tasting and purchase. This obviously took some time as you cannot rush these things, so we decided to take lunch just around the corner. As well as vines we saw this hop garden and also a lot of potato fields.

The next section had a strong headwind which made the cycling less than enjoyable. Coming back to running on the Camino meant a bit of the gravel again but on this occasion it was worth it as it enabled us to get to near the heart of the busy city of Logrono via their version of Hayesden Lake.

We then worked our way into the historic centre and got our stamps although did not feel that it came up to the standards of Leon.

An ice cream stop was called for as although the day was overcast it was hot and sticky at 33 degrees with storms forecast. We had arranged to meet the camper 10 miles out of town and after a few steep hills and some tedious running along A roads decided to stop, as only more of the same was to come which is not fun cycling. Our tea stop at Viania was held with the smell of chocolate from the nearby Mondelez factory.

As many of you know I am a great motorsport fan and when planning the route last year mentioned to Nigel that we were passing by the Navarra circuit. By coincidence he happened to be going there transporting some racing cars for off season practice. He had a word with the circuit manager who said ask when you get here. Luckily for us the days practice for the weekend had just finished when we arrived so the green light was given for us all to have a lap of the track, albeit rather slower than the usual occupants. Nigel joined us and as we approached the first bend at probably 15 mph said a superbike is breaking for this at over 200!!! Although Nigel was dropped on the second half of the lap we didn’t have to call out the safety car and he completed the lap smiling. What a great way to finish the day.

We piled back into the camper buzzing at the end of another memorable days cycling to go to the campsite and had guests Stefan and Michelle from Windhoek, Namibia for our steak dinner. They are bravely riding the Camino with little training on a month’s sabbatical from work.

So we ended the day happy at a fun days riding having ridden up a mountain, tasted some wine, ridden round a racing track and chatted to some Namibians. That is cycling on a high.

Day Four

Carrion de las Condes to Pradoluengo

67 miles 3612 ft

On a day which celebrates the 80 th anniversary of D-Day and the announcement of the England team for the Euros football tournament our day was very much reflective of what was going on in the wider world.

Whilst cycling across the almost endless Spanish plain we met Uli from Germany who impressively is cycling from the French /German border to Lisbon on her own where her husband will collect her- a trip of 2600 km. Of course the fact that she mistakenly called us handsome boys may be why we liked her so much. However serious kudos to her for such an undertaking unsupported.

We were woken this morning by the sound of the cuckoo at 6am so were off and out before 8.30.

As we were still on the plain the roads were flat and straight as above. We did therefore take the opportunity to take small diversions off the route to visit the Camino villages where nothing much seemed to have changed since the Middle Ages although the growth of the pilgrims has brought money and reinvestment into these out of the way communities.

Today was a busy day with the Chris pilgrimometer registering 419 pilgrims. The most on any day. Few looked happy and they were certainly suffering and taking their penance. Struggling across the featureless plain for several days would take joy out of most we thought.

Each of these pueblos had a few houses, some lived in, some in disrepair, usually a massive church and perhaps other religious buildings and a population of less than 200.

We mostly chose to ride on the road with the Camino path running alongside as our progress was obviously somewhat quicker. For once we made quite good time as our only distractions were calling in at these small places and getting our credencials stamped.

At one point leaving a small town a chap explained to Nick the new high speed train line had cut the path so it was best carry on the road until the next left hand turn and then rejoin the original route. More new infrastructure.

Leaving the last small town before our coffee stop however the street we were on disintegrated into the pilgrims stony track and with coffee only five miles away at Itero de la Vega we thought we would risk it. The stony ascent was a little tricky but coming down the path was smooth gravel and even had a couple of irrigation sprays to cool us down on a day where the temperature rose to over 30. The most fun section of the tour.

The coffee stop was again right next to the Camino path and a on a number of occasions tired looking pilgrims looked longingly at our ample spread of pastries and fruit. Today we were not so generous and did not share our feast.

The terrain started to change a little with more in the way of hills and valleys so we decided to leave the stony pilgrim route and kept to the roads zigzagging along river valleys and over small climbs

In a very small village just off the Camino was a Sephardic Jewish centre in a village that had obviously been settled by the Jews for centuries judging by its name.

As we returned to the Camino route at Castrojeriz we were reminded of the contrast in labour required to farm these days. One guy in a tractor with a special trailer collected and stacked a field in just minutes , but just the other side of the village an old boy with a walk behind grass cutter was sitting exhausted after doing his much smaller field with a lot more work ahead. The countryside towns in Spain are devoid of human beings because they are simply not required.

After climbing the hill out of Castrojeriz we met Uli coming the other way on her epic journey and wished her well before carrying on in opposite directions.

Once again after a further stamp in our credencial the route wanted us to follow the stony Camino path but we decided to road it again. This saw a bit more climbing and the scenery looking more like the bad lands of Dakota with flat topped hills.

Having been up and down a few times and with our lunch stop still 18 miles away we decided a call to International Rescue in Thunderbird Two to change the location was in order and cycling onto the next village the camper arrived with lunch five minutes later.

The next part of the route would take us through the pretty but busy city of Burgos. It was quickly decided to skip a section so we all piled into the camper after lunch to start the other side after a quick restocking at Lidl’s in town. Seeing the amount of traffic and unkind large road we were due to ride we decided it was again the right decision.

Chris decided that he would sit out leg three and starting off in front of the Guardia Civil ( one of whom was happy to give me a high five!) Nick. Dom and Neil set off for the climb up past a dam to our campsite at Pradoluengo

Having climbed up we then had an exhilarating descent complete with a few hairpins before a short climb back up to our very nice but almost deserted campsite and a swim and shower. We were once again accompanied by the sound of at least two cuckoos as we started our dinner.

Dinner today was Salmon and a cucumber salad Nigel claiming to be no expert at cooking fish. I seem to recall him cooking an excellent whole fresh salmon in Norway!

The weather has remained warm and we expect it to be like that again tomorrow although a big Atlantic storm threatens to wipe out the Pyrenees and some of the early French days. Fingers crossed that’s wrong

I finish today with an appropriate photo of cornflowers and poppies together. The symbols of remembrance for France and the UK respectively.

Day Three

Astorga to Sahagun

82.5 miles 3589 ft climbed

The title of this blog changed as I started to write it this evening just before ten o’clock as an incessant cuckoo started up his two tone call. We have always had history with the Cuckoo dating back to our first Iberian trip in 2016 when we heard it almost every day. That’s why they feature on the Nbjtours logo. As historic readers may know, Nick became allergic to the call and demanded the extermination of the Cuckoo as a species as they are so cruel. We are concerned he may be kept awake all night by the tormenting call and we will need to find another reader tomorrow morning for the audible version of the blog. Nick explained that perhaps it was not a cuckoo but a robin with a sore throat!!

Today started with a short ride into the centre of Astorga to see the magnificent cathedral and the Gaudi designed episcopal palace. We ended up chatting to a Japanese-Brazilian woman who lives in Liverpool who was in charge of a dozen or so Brazilians doing the Camino walk. She was not looking forward to her day’s walking it is fair to say.

Leaving Astorga we joined the Camino route proper to begin with, running off the tarmac road, firstly scaling this triple decker bike ramp bridge over the railway before having a short but very steep climb on cobbles up an escarpment to leave the town behind.

Using the official Camino route running alongside the main road saw us mostly on the old road, although with not too much traffic we decided to go onto the main road running more quickly on the hard shoulder.

Running along smaller roads we passed through little agricultural villages that reminded us of the backwaters of France before we came across Nigel and Monica set up for coffee in the middle of Mozondiga, one of them. As ever our croissants and coffee was waiting.

What was interesting about some of these local towns was the underground houses (Chozas) that were set into earth ridges. Whilst some were abandoned others clearly were still lived in. The benefit being the cooler temperature underground away from the heat of the sun. Whilst it stayed dry and hot all day luckily there was some cloud cover so the mercury only got to 30 degrees.

Our next leg of today’s ride was the most enjoyable and had three main elements. Firstly we rode along the rough Camino paths surrounded by endless fields of the most magnificent flowers. There were honestly too many to choose from with pinks, yellows, blues and whites predominating. This accompanied by the wonderful smell of broom which was flowering everywhere.

This slowed our ride down as we had to stop to enjoy the flowers but we did eventually get to the outskirts of the biggest town on our ride today , Leon. Although we had feared it would be difficult to get into, it the truth was the opposite as the traffic remained light and we were able to get to the historical centre easily and cycle round the pedestrianised streets taking in the sights. We even managed to get our credencials stamped.

Leaving Leon we followed the Camino route but using the main road. This is where I made a schoolboy error. Having marked up the route on a map I failed to update it when I changed the satnav routing so got Nigel to wait for us off our programmed route.

Whilst we knew where to find where Nigel and Monica were waiting for us the problem was that in asking Google maps for a reroute it then took us on so called streets of earth and stone slowing our progress further.

Often the paths ran alongside irrigation gullies and it was most impressive to see how much attention and money was invested into watering the crops. There was simply nothing to work out where we were as the landscape was devoid of any remarkable feature so we had to rely on careful following of the phone directions across endless fields which finally got us out of the fields and onto and tarmac road.

Poor Nigel and Monica had been waiting the best part of two and a half hours for our arrival for lunch which was had again after 3.30.

Having taken more care on identifying our next stopping place we left just after 4 not realising this would be the last leg of the day.

Sometimes a leg just gets you from a to b and this was just it. A straight road with no traffic and not much to see It was not hard cycling as there were few hills but it was boring. So although when we got to Sahagun there was still 25 miles to go it was agreed that as it was already 6.30 and the last leg would not be fun we all piled into the camper to go the the campsite in Carrion de los Condes where Nigel conjured up his Thai Chicken Jamie one pot special accompanied by Monica’s coleslaw which was swiftly devoured by one and all.

Today saw Chris take over the pilgrimometer and he only managed 158 so way below Nicks target of 189-210. We expect this number will reduce the further we get from Santiago.

On our arrival at the campsite Dom thought he’d better check his running legs were still working ready for the 75km run in Le Puy. He ran up into the town and did some laps of the castle, although he explained that a pair of Bloodhounds took too much interest in his running causing him to jump up onto a bench until the owner took control.

As I finish this blog at almost 11.30 I can still hear the Cuckoo singing out strongly. I wonder if Nick is sleeping soundly ?

Day Two

Sarria to Astorga

Total 98 Miles but between 56 and 85 miles cycled.

Maximum elevation achieved 8995 ft.

We had climbed the first big mountain of the day and were looking forward to a nice speedy descent having found the old road down, as once again the Spanish were building a new motorway. After a couple of kilometres down a sign said the road was closed but we thought ok let’s just try.

However it was not so simple as that road took us directly onto the new motorway which was being used in one direction. Deciding we had better not go on the motorway, we went back up to the main road where there was a no bikes allowed sign as the main road was being used as the one way up of the other side of the motorway. we were therefore stuck with no way down.

As ever Nick said leave it to me I’ll see if I can find a track. Hey he did and after a little off roading we managed to negotiate our way under the motorway and onto the other side of the old road back on our way down

We counted five immense viaducts just along this stretch looming over us The cost must be huge.

This morning we knew it was to be a big day so rose early to get an early start at 8am. Nick complained about noisy birds and dogs keeping him awake but it may have been that Nigel had kindly pitched his tent under a light !

The morning was cool and misty and our first climb of the day started as soon as we left the campsite. At around three and a half Roughways ( a local climb to Hadlow) and 1200 ft it was a solid start to the day and gave us our first great shots of the day. We even saw a couple of Pine Martens.

Having ascended this small peak we then descended into Samos which was a small village dominated by a huge monastery. Nick tried but we were unable to find someone to stamp our credencials.

After running alongside a river for a while we then started the first big climb which was a 1900 ft climb over 6 miles most of which was at a constant gradient of 7-8%. As ever Dom and Nick shot up the climb whilst Chris and Neil were pleased to struggle to the top.

Nigel and Monica arranged coffee stop just over the peak where as usual we the enjoyed local Pastries as well as our coffee enjoying a magnificent view.

After the refuel we thought we were in for a nice downhill but there were in fact three peaks to the top in this col meaning more work to be done before we had the fun of trying to descend properly.

Although the first part of the descent was as problematic as already described once we had found our way onto the old old road ( whose surface was better than most of our Kentish roads) we had a good speed down off the mountain and then some proper cycling for a few miles running alongside the river with the motorway usually flying above us on yet more viaducts.

This finally brought us into Villafrancia ( French town) so named because French pilgrims from the Middle Ages liked it so much here they stayed and grew vines.

Once again we needed Nick’s language skills as the road was officially closed and a local workman was less than happy initially to let us past swinging the arm of his digger across the street. After Nick had explained we were mad Englishmen he let us walk by!

We rode through the town and got our credencials stamped before joining the pilgrims track out of town. Nick tried to convince us he counted every pilgrim he saw walking today. We are not convinced that the 190-208 figure he finally arrived at is correct. Certainly after seeing the paths they took none of us would have the slightest inclination to try to walk the Camino.

Nigel had parked up just off this track and found some shade from the hot sun although by now lunch was to be taken at 4 o’clock because of the slow cycling and route problems.

Chris and Neil decided to stop for the day having had enough. Nick and Dom were keen to do the last climb but were running out of time so we all hopped in the camper after lunch. Nigel

Then drove through the big industrial town of Ponferrada and dropped them at the bottom of the big climb.

We watched them up the first three kilometres and then left to set up camp next to the bullring in Astorga. Both of course got to the top but Nick was less complimentary about the route as the top of the climb saw the steepest gradients at over 15%. Serious kudos to them. Chris & I were happy we made the right decision.

Tonight’s menu was beef stew which we ate outside in the warm finishing around 9.30 still bathed in sunshine.

The bullring is next to the local air ambulance station and as we finished the helicopter came in to land to complete an exciting day.

Tomorrow is the flattest day of the tour with only around 3000 ft of climbing but the temperature across the Spain plain is expected to reach 30 degrees plus so it will be another challenging day.

Day One

Santiago de Compostella- Sarria

80 miles 8268 ft climbed.

In devising the route to Le Puy from Santiago I have not been religious ( pun intended) in following the actual Camino path but we do follow it more often than not.

Having our Camino passports also means that we explore some of the towns we pass through a bit more thoroughly in search of the church so we can get our credencial stamped. We did manage five today.

Today was so great it is difficult to choose an over riding memory. Was it the number of pilgrims walking in the opposite direction, the endless hills and descents or the superb landscapes full of the most wonderful wild flowers.

Leaving our campsite early at 8.30 to tackle a hilly day little did we realise what a tough day it would turn out to be. We arrived at our new campsite site in Sarria just after 7 in the evening having covered only 80 miles!!

Santiago set us up immediately with a super steep hill at over 10% running past the pilgrim hostel. The road was full of pilgrims and got us used to running opposite everyone on their way to Santiago. Most were very polite with an ‘Ola’ or ‘Bon Camino’. We were also amazed at the number of Japanese pilgrims.

In addition to the highlights above we often ran off bigger roads through small villages which were little more than a farm plus a few houses all tightly packed on the road which was often concrete. The smell was usually the familiar Eau de Hadlow cow manure! The only thing we had to watch out for were giant milk tankers that somehow got out to these farms tucked out of the way. How they managed to navigate the narrow villages we are not sure.

Spanish infrastructure is second to none and we spent much of the day crisscrossing the building of a new motorway which bulldozed and viaducted its way over and through the lumpy countryside. We could have saved a lot of climbing if we had sneaked on and used it!

As the terrain was so lumpy and we had to stop so often to take photos Nigel had to reposition the camper as we took three hours to cover less than 30 miles. The belated coffee stop was of course overlooking the motorway under construction!

Our slow progress meant that we decided early on that today was a three stopper so lunch which was taken at almost 3 pm was on the Camino route where Nigel and Monica could have set up a cafe and earned a fortune whilst waiting for the tardy cyclists!

Although we had only 30 miles to go Tired legs meant two 15 mile segments, where luckily the first had a six mile downhill stretch on super smooth tarmac which we enjoyed to the full, running at over 40 mph for some time. It did bring our average up to over 10 mph !!

Chris sensibly decided to save his legs at this stop and left Nick, Dom and Neil ( hanging on ) to cycle the last 17 miles. The last five of the 32 categorised climbs were not especially long but they all had super steep ramps usually on poor gravelly roads over 10% draining the last bit of energy. Chris had made a good choice.

On the last tricky descent on a poor road into Sarria Dom and I came across Nick in the middle of the road chatting away to a Colombian cyclist in training to do a few of the stages of the Vuelta

Arriving so late we had but time for a quick shower before pork chops tatoes and coleslaw was ready. This evening we were joined by Susana from Alicante who was bravely riding her 125 up from there and doing the Camino. As ever this allowed Nick to demonstrate his Spanish although Susana understood English pretty well as do most young people in Europe.

We took more photos of fantastic sights than you could imagine and saw more different species of wild flower than ever before so I will hope to put a flora and fauna page together later on the trip. But the fields of yellow and purple or the cushions of pink saxifrage along the edge of the roads were just wonderful.

Tomorrow sees the Queen stage of the tour with two big climbs book ending the day. Chris has already said he will just do the first. I will decide depending how tired I am during the day. Dom and Nick just say bring it on ! The weather is due to warm up further tomorrow hitting 30 plus so hydration will be key. Stay tuned for another instalment to see how we get on

Day 0

Finisterra – Santiago de Compostella

62 miles

5758 ft climbed

We knew this trip was going to be tough and although our first day in the saddle was a bit shorter it had plenty of hills to remind us what lay ahead. However we all completed a longer first day than expected properly signed in as pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago.

After breakfast this morning at our campsite in Santiago we unusually all boarded the camper for the drive to the start at Finisterra. It took over an hour and a half to get there, winding its way over endless tree clad hills making us think we were going to be in for an honest day. Note Finisterra is the Galician spelling , Finisterre the Spanish.

We therefore did not leave the end of the earth until after half past ten and agreed a first meeting at around twenty miles. As can be seen from the photos the sky was a cloudless blue However there was a strong north/northeasterly headwind all day just to make this a bit more difficult.

We initially ran a little along the seaside through the towns of Finisterra and Cee, the latter having a Sunday market blocking the roads causing the first detour of the day

Leaving Cee we had our biggest climb of the day up from sea level to 1300ft over almost 6 miles Apart from a couple of steep ramps it was not too bad and lead us up Into the interior of the Galician mainland. As ever that mountain goat Cabrera lead the train with Dom snapping at his heels with Chris & Neil bringing up the rear.

Nearing the top of the climb we saw another cyclist getting some water at a farmhouse. Before we knew it,with a fully laden bike he latched onto the back of the Cabrera train.

We established that Jerome was from Alsace and had just completed the Camino by bike starting out in Le Puy 23 days earlier. A chef who works at Montgenevre near Briancon in the Alps, he had completed the ride in honour of his mother who had wanted to do the pilgrimage but sadly died last year As we were coming up to lunch we obviously invited him along to join our feast. He was only too pleased to accept

After lunch I decided that cycling on the quiet main roads would be easier and we therefore parted ways with Jerome although did see him filling up with water at a garage later on. Nick in front missed the turn but luckily Nigel was just passing the rest of us so we were able to get him to get Nick turn round to come back up the hill to join us.

The amended route was a good call and apart from the nagging headwind the hills were just that bit gentler and roads smoother. The highlights of this leg were a spot of bell ringing at this old church at Olviera which Nick reckoned was Chris summoning the devil, which knocked his bike over, and a crossing of a medieval bridge at Brandomil.

Nigel met us on his bike to lead us into our tea stop by a sports centre to end leg two with in theory only 17 miles to go but that’s not quite how it panned out

Soon after tea we took a little detour to see the even more ancient bridge at Maciera which although indicated as a footpath we had to get out the way for a car.

It was just after this point that Nick’s descending enthusiasm got the better of all of us as he headed full speed down a four mile hill taking us off route. This required some Google map rescheduling plus some climbing back up adding at least four miles to the day.

However all was not lost as we still had the highlight of our arrival into Santiago to come as we wound our way between the well behaved pilgrims to the enormous square in front of the impressive cathedral.

We then got our pilgrims passports stamped and took ourselves back to the campsite arriving around seven o clock after a satisfying and tough day in the saddle.

As ever Nigel and Monica had everything ready for us so we only needed a shower before our bangers and mash were served up.

It is worth noting now the reason for the pilgrimages here date back to the ninth century when a shepherd was led to a hillside at night and discovered some bones which were later confirmed by the local Bishop to be those of St James, one of Jesus’s disciples who, according to local legend came to Galicia to spread the word. Santiago de Compostella means St James of the starry field.

A church was built to house St James’s relics and pilgrimages started in the Middle Ages but stopped after the Black Death. The present pilgrimage routes really started in the 1980’s and now over 500,000 pilgrims are said to walk at least part of the route to Santiago every year.

This amazingly is the twelfth NBJTours trip since the first Hadlow Tower to the Eiffel Tower ride in 2007 and the sixth since we have had the luxury of the support of Nigel and Monica in the camper.

Chris and I have been on every ride and Nick only missed a couple of early outings when Brian & Mike were regulars. This year we are once again joined by Dom Boulle who last rode with us from Tonbridge to Le Puy on the Twinning Tour in 2019. He has promised this year not to fall off his bike.

As mentioned previously we are cycling the Santiago de Compostella pilgrimage route to Le Puy in reverse which is just over 1000 very hilly miles. On arriving after 13 days hard cycling Dom is donning his trail shoes and will be running the 75k trail race. Is he human or bionic.

I am writing this as usual in my bunk in the camper on my iPhone but for the first time have had to admit defeat as wearing glasses to see what I type!

The trips down here were pleasingly without incident apart from seeing this van ablaze. The poor driver had his head in his hands just behind.

Having loaded the camper up in Hadlow on Thursday morning we took the ferry that evening and with two comfortable overnight stops arrived at the campsite in plenty of time to set up the tents before going to the airport to pick up Chris Nick & Dom.

Having feasted this evening with chicken and an early entry of Monica’s famous apple and beetroot salad we all feel set fair for the first days cycling from Cape Finisterre tomorrow.

The weather is looking sunny and warm but there may be a nagging headwind at play. Bring on the adventure.