Update tomorrow as no data. Available
Day Twelve
Suza, Croatia
102 miles. 879 ft climbed
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/472ed039-9434-41fe-9328-092bc6648bf9.jpg?w=1024)
Hungary is famous for its love of paprika. Todays route took us through the centre of the paprika growing region of the country, Kalocsa. In addition to paprika it is also a major religious and teacher training centre
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/24889ff3-8aa4-4547-98c6-5687b80a2391.jpg?w=768)
Taking a bit of a detour to see the town we were able to enjoy seeing all these elements in one go. NBJ Tours have had previous with nuns as Chris, Brian & Mike will testify having come across some in the depths of France many years ago. Here we saw this cycling nun pass in front of the cathedral where a group of primary school children were about to be taken into the museum. As she went passed, the teacher nodded and they all waved and said hello, and the nun waved back. How good to see such respect
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/8e3548fc-5428-475f-9b86-7c827939fd2f.jpg?w=1024)
Once again we were up with the lark and after our hearty porage we were off again at 7.30 in the knowledge that another 100 mile day awaited.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5180.jpg?w=768)
Passing the soviet era war memorial we hit the road for our first mini leg of 16 miles to a ferry across the Danube. Nigel, Monica and the camper taking a different route.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5182.jpg?w=1024)
Arriving at the ferry terminal after about an hour we were the only passengers for the voyage which we had to wait 20 minutes. Our cruise ( Linda please note) lasted around ten minutes as the ferry had to fight the current as the other side was upstream a little. it cost us €10 and we all felt it was sound value for the cruise but it confirms we are not in the market for a longer voyage.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/874dddc7-3e2a-45cd-9d3c-833477d9ddaf.jpg?w=1024)
We met Nigel & Monica for breakfast around another 7 miles on just before our detour into Kalocsa.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5193.jpg?w=1024)
We went past several paprika fields and the one above had workers at the other side who encouraged us to get off and help them. As mentioned above we enjoyed our trip into Kalocsa, Nick even getting his museum fix in the Paprika Museum.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5200.jpg?w=1024)
Leaving Kalocsa we could have almost thought we were at home when we spied a Tesco superstore!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5201.jpg?w=768)
For once the wind was slightly in our favour and although still warm the temperature was manageable with some cloud around and the thunderstorms stayed away. This helped us average 15 mph despite some gentle riding around town and the slow ferry rides.
The riding today was therefore much better and we only had a couple of bigger roads and lorries to worry about for short stretches. We did as ever have long straight roads or paths as has been so typical of this trip.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5210.jpg?w=768)
We did go through a few small villages which barely seemed alive, but it was good to see real life as we saw very few cyclists en route today.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5209.jpg?w=768)
An interesting note was that everyone’s drainpipe lead out across the path and into the ditch at the side of the road. Not something we’d ever seen before.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5203.jpg?w=768)
Lunch stop was on the levee before Baja where we made another detour to see the town
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5214.jpg?w=1024)
This is pretty small town around the size of Tonbridge which has been both Hungarian and Serbian throughout history.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5219.jpg?w=1024)
Leaving Baja we ran along the Danube for a period before our final tea stop by the next ferry crossing. Nigel decided he could not risk the camper on the steep slope so would add some extra miles to his route to the campsite. . It turned out to be a bit more extra as he ended up having to go into and out of Serbia in order to cross the river and get back into Croatia!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/97702b84-f2d7-48e9-bf96-2df584f6ab55.jpg?w=768)
We did not have the same issue but on getting on board the ferry were asked for our tickets which we should have bought at the kassa, although not signed. Initially the crew said we could wait half an hour for the next crossing, but common sense prevailed as we were not about to get off and one of the crew accompanied me to the kassa on the opposite bank to pay. This only cost €4 and as I was given change in Forints gave this to the helpful crew member.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/cca493a3-a1d3-4046-a94d-357ce8a68975.jpg?w=1024)
A ten mile ride to get to Croatia followed and although it was evident that the border control was significant not long ago we were able to pass without stopping in the Schengen zone. ( unlike Nigel in Serbia, which we will have tomorrow)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5236.jpg?w=768)
The only hill of the day came just before the campsite and with it was a change in agriculture as we saw many vines and signs for wineries.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5237.jpg?w=1024)
From the top of the hill it was only another two miles downhill to the campsite which was welcome after the second hundred mile day in a row. We have now completed over 1000 miles since leaving Mulhouse.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5159.jpg?w=768)
Beef stew for dinner and cards followed as we were back in our usual campsite routine. It has to be said that every site where we have stayed has been clean and the facilities have been what has been needed after a hard days riding.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5205.jpg?w=768)
Day Eleven
100 miles 1923 ft climbed
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/0e8d97fa-8cb8-409d-b572-e6d7f303e0b8.jpg?w=1024)
After two days of absolutely no climbing at all we decided to spice up the day ( and cheer up Nick) by tackling two climbs which on both occasions were topped by castles. The first Visegrad was immediately at the start of the day and within 4 miles we had climbed more today than in over eighty miles yesterday. We then also decided to venture up and visit the Castle district of Budapest to take in the sights there. As we are now firmly in the middle of the great Hungarian plain I am not expecting too much climbing tomorrow either.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5095.jpg?w=768)
Leaving the campsite at 7.15 today as we knew we had a long day ahead the climb up to Visegrad castle started within 400m of the campsite entrance. As well as the castle it also gave us a good view of the Danube Bend where the Danube moves from an Easterly flow to a Southerly one.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/89968358-2c75-4288-ac1b-55934c23a48b.jpg?w=1024)
As it was still before 8 am everything was closed and when I entered the car park a loudspeaker announced “ you are in an unauthorised area please leave immediately “ Which of course I did. We did however make it up even higher to an Outpost of the castle by cycling up a 15% gradient although sadly the views were not worth the extra effort.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/f9a7769f-a6dd-4aa0-8e49-f247984e9f3a.jpg?w=1024)
Having met Nigel & Monica at the top we chased the camper down a very bumpy hill and then said goodbye until our lunch stop some 60 miles away.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5105.jpg?w=1024)
The route then took us along the Danube on a mix of road and cycle path past Szentendre ( which I has stayed in on my exploration of Eastern Europe in 1991) and then on some superb cycle paths ( and dusty tracks) into Budapest itself
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5107.jpg?w=768)
Workmen were busy everywhere building new cycle paths so future cyclists will be even more spoiled. On entering Budapest we switched sides of the river and cycled along its green lung Margaret’s Island stopping to enjoy the famous Margitsziget szokokut.
The fountain was pretty impressive even if we could not stay for one of its hourly music shows as they didn’t start until 11 o’clock and that was another hour away. Moving on from the island we went into Obuda part of the city stopping briefly for Nick to visit the pharmacy. Having to approach the castle hill from the rear we had a short two hairpin climb to get us where we needed to get to.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5125.jpg?w=1024)
We managed a coffee stop before moving on to look at the view behind the cathedral which was another monument under restoration. Having done a photo exchange with an English couple on a river cruise, a New Yorker insisted on taking our photos from in front and behind. The celebrity almost got to Nick’s head! This reminds me, having seen a dozen or so Biking cruise ships full of sun tanned leathery folk, please do not ever let me go on one It looks like purgatory.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5129.jpg?w=768)
Leaving the castle area we dropped down crossing the Danube via the Szechenyi Chain bridge designed by an Englishman and built by a Scottish engineer both called Clark in 1849 and was the first permanent bridge over the Danube linking the two sides of the city. This year 2023 is officially the 150th anniversary of Budapest hence all the work in renovating it and we were lucky to cross the Szechenyi bridge as they have only just reopened it after a two year renovation programme.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/c54ee36b-744a-4e3c-8660-3dc20eff1da1.jpg?w=1024)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5134.jpg?w=768)
This dropped us into the lower side of the city (Pest) and we worked our way out passing the impressive brand new stadium that has just held the world athletics championships.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5141.jpg?w=1024)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5140.jpg?w=1024)
Leaving Budapest behind we now had a long stretch along the biggest island in the Danube which is 42km long and full of dormitory towns served by a railway that feeds people into the city.
By now the temperature had begun to climb, Nick boasting 36 degrees although I’m inclined to more believe Chris’s 32 degrees as Nick’s Garmin is like it’s owner and for ever is over optimistic in its readings. He has usually cycled further and certainly climbed much more than either Chris or me every day!!
Running out of water required a stop in a local shop to top up the water bottles and cool our heads under a water pump.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/652ff698-de22-4fa9-86c9-c3cb6170f93c.jpg?w=768)
Nigel had found a very good lunch stop near an outdoor shower where we all again cooled out top halves down. We agreed that we would split the last leg as although we had only 30 odd miles to go the heat was oppressive and an extra stop for tea and perhaps a cooling ice lolly would be good. Arranged, we set off for the most horrid leg of the trip so far which had the last 8 miles running along a busy and bumpy road with lorries thundering past. We were very glad therefore that as soon as we turned off we saw the Camper parked on the river levee.
The only downside was that the place was teeming with mosquitoes and we all left there with the standard war wounds although did destroy a number of the critters.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5149.jpg?w=768)
Just as we were leaving a herd of sheep/ goats accompanied by a man, a donkey and a dog, appeared and surrounded the camper. Whilst Monica being the animal lover she is fed the donkey it of course wanted more so Nigel with the help of the shepherd encouraged it to move on. A fun little interlude
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5152.jpg?w=768)
Our final short leg was ok and having been scared off the main road to avoid another couple of miles we ran along this unmade up levee.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/1cd70d53-7b55-4104-b113-1782b6393897.jpg?w=768)
Crossing the river the campsite was only a few hundred metres on and we had made it to complete another day.
During the day we had come across a couple on a tandem and they ended up near to us on the site. Feeling sorry for them, Nigel invited Andy & Alison over for dinner and we had a good chat about our respective trips. They being recently retired and cycling from Amsterdam to Istanbul over 3 months with the aim of completing 43 miles a day two up carrying everything. Very impressive.
Only three days to go and we cross another border tomorrow to get to our eighth country of the tour.
Day 10
Visegrad, Hungary
87 miles 686ft climbed
The loud speakers crackled into life and some music began to play, then it was accompanied by a man singing a patriotic tune. Was this Mustapha Mond the controller from Brave New World or had we descended back into communist Russia.
We looked around checking our watches. We had just entered a small village, it was 8 o’clock , time for the National Anthem just to remind us we were in Slovakia and we must love our country. Nick is now keen to get Brian Rowe to get speakers installed in Hadlow Park so the residents can be woken and be ready for inspection every morning!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5029.jpg?w=1024)
Starting at 7.30 to try to beat the heat that was forecast today saw our busiest launch on roads full of workers setting out for the day. After innumerable roundabouts to exit Dunajska Streda we finally were able to turn off to smaller roads where even they had cycle paths easing the ride.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5030.jpg?w=1024)
The first part of our ride worked it’s way across the very flat fertile Slovakian plain north of the Danube. This was a good change from pounding by the Danube and saw us run through several small towns and villages, where we did enjoy the Slovak National Anthem as mentioned earlier.
Agriculture abounded with apples, vines, various grains and sunflowers all in evidence. Running occasionally next to irrigation canals and rivers we saw more wildlife than for some time with a couple of very rapid deer, a hare that bounded across the path in front of us , and Nick even saw his first ever Kingfisher.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5035.jpg?w=768)
The other great variation of the day was the type of surface we cycled on. We reckon the only thing we didn’t cycle on was wet concrete we had cycled on before.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5040.jpg?w=768)
We enjoyed or should we say endured. Tarmac, new, old, almost vanished ( see above) , gravel, pebbles (like cycling on Hastings beach), grass, mud, dirt, concrete (various varieties) and even different types of cobblestones. Suffice to say to protect our delicates nether regions there was much warning and standing on pedals!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5031.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5067.jpg?w=768)
Before we made it to our coffee stop next to the Danube after the longest leg of the day we came across the longest wooden bridge in Europe and managed to cycle across it.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5046.jpg?w=1024)
With the temperature rising Nigel & Monica’s coffee stop was shorter than usual and we set off on the standard Danube levee in some ferocious heat.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5053.jpg?w=1024)
Unannounced we came across this Roman fort which was occupied from the first to the fourth centuries in keeping the Germans at bay. I had a walk round but Nick & Chris thought I was bonkers to venture out in the heat, but it was an interesting little detour.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/0b8924ba-ebf1-495f-aed0-961fdbe750ec.jpg?w=1024)
Not long after this we came across a reconstruction of a Roman watchtower, although the fact it had ceramic tiles and plastic four glazing suggested it was not an accurate rendition.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5058.jpg?w=768)
Continuing along the levee we sought out shade when ever we could and did drop down to hide in the shade of trees on dirt tracks as preference to gravel on the top. We even had a brief stop by the Danube to cool down.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5065.jpg?w=768)
We need not have feared as Nigel had found a nice shady spot for lunch just by our cycle track so we were able to enjoy a relatively cool break.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/426686d5-84b4-4466-b405-591d5075365a.jpg?w=1024)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/e2895285-2c2e-4faa-be6a-9d2e7741cbb3.jpg?w=1024)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5072.jpg?w=768)
It was not far now to the bridge to cross the Danube and enter Hungary which we had seen for some miles on the opposite bank of the river.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/d0307efd-4caf-4f65-ab18-ffb9bff597a4.jpg?w=1024)
The Maria Valeria bridge was built in 1896 was destroyed in the Second World War but not rebuilt until 2001! After crossing the bridge we came into Esztergom which is home to the largest basilica in whole Hungary and the centre of Catholicism in The country.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5078.jpg?w=768)
Having got here we thought we ought to pay it a visit and climbed the cobbled hill to have a look. It’s size certainly makes it impressive although it is presently undergoing extensive renovations both inside and outside so was not at its finest.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5082.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5085.jpg?w=768)
Leaving Esztergom we had decided the final climb of the day up to the castle at Visegrad was better served by doing it first thing in the morning when it is cooler and the legs less tired. This just left twenty odd miles to the campsite. Sadly the last ten running along a busy road with cars and vans whizzing by every few seconds.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5083.jpg?w=768)
We need not have feared as on arriving at the campsite as Nigel had some cool beers waiting and we were able to shower quickly before spag Bol completed the day.
More warm weather is forecast tomorrow so we aim to get up and away even Earlier to tackle to climb to Visegrad before going on to Budapest.
Day 9
Dunajska Streda, Slovakia
78 miles 577 ft climbed
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/7896f5bb-90c9-426b-91cb-4b6f4afc9f87.jpg?w=1024)
Today was a big day in more ways than one. After enjoying Vienna in the company of our wives it was back on our bikes after two days resting our tired limbs and sore bottoms. In addition we were about to leave Austria to start our journey into what was behind the Iron Curtain prior to 1990. Lastly and significantly it was our compadre Nick’s birthday today.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/3b5bd5bc-b37a-48f0-8864-d07370be7bc3.jpg?w=333)
Birthday boy with his cakes
With us all fully refreshed apart from Nick who had walked around 35 km in the last two days and the forecast due to be hot we decided on an early start once again.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/051545ed-4ed8-4468-88c3-70875d57ea82.jpg?w=738)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4956.jpg?w=1024)
The mornings leg started out along the Danube levee before a detour round this huge oil depot before moving slightly away from the Danube and then we ran along a old railway line which was straight and true for at least fifteen miles. As ever Chris & I let Nick lead the majority of the pretty mind numbing and scene-less route, although I did feel sorry for him and took the last five miles
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4963.jpg?w=768)
Completing this part of the route we moved away from the Danube towards Schloss Hof where we met up with Nigel & Monica for our coffee stop already in the shade as the temperature had begun to climb. As we cycled between large fields we came across a huge field of onions left out to dry so I popped down and scrumped one for dinner!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4965.jpg?w=1024)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4968.jpg?w=1024)
Leaving coffee we quickly passed Schloss Hof itself and almost ran over the marmots that were squeaking noisily near its entrance gates. We were now close the the border and were able to cross a river over the cycling friendship bridge as we left the castle’s estate. Poor Nigel and Monica had a long trip round over the Danube to get into Slovakia.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4972.jpg?w=768)
Moving into Slovakia there was a slight deterioration in the quality of the cycling infrastructure but realistically this amounted to slightly uneven tarmac. It is still far superior to that in the U.K.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/bd4d8d5d-2a77-4644-9a5c-8535be9de114.jpg?w=768)
Slovakia, is incredibly the country with the highest car production per capita with plants already building Volkswagen, Audi, Porsche, Citroen, Land Rover and Kia with a new Volvo facility due to come online soon.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/29b1c0c3-0868-4dbd-a772-9437c228e587.jpg?w=768)
We then started to enter Bratislava itself, initially on the bank of the Danube before we then rode through the pretty pedestrianised centre of the city.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4983.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4996.jpg?w=768)
After having had a whizz round the city centre we then left to rejoin the river levee. At this point the river must have been a mile wide and really did not look like a river.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5006.jpg?w=1024)
This leg was our most interesting of the day and Nigel had arranged a lunch stop just off the levee having put up the awning to give us some shade. We saw very few other cyclists all day and even Nigel wasn’t able to persuade a couple to stop and join us.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/74b9ac20-bb78-479d-a667-cf1803abae74-1.jpg?w=1024)
After this stop we ran along the river for around fifteen miles before leaving the river at Horny Bar and then running on small roads across the flat plain. As the heat was climbing further we stopped in the shade before the last push to the campsite. What was noticeable was that it appeared that all houses had just had fibre fitted but that the roads were just filled with gravel. This left a gravelly bump every 20 metres as we rode through each town. The choice being fibre or smooth roads!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5007.jpg?w=768)
The day being a little shorter we managed a finish at 3 pm. Followed by a glass of Zlaty Bazant and a quick cool down swim in the lake.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/c30ec1b9-87cb-4479-95aa-fe038108a25f.jpg?w=1024)
Monica had set out to explore Slovakian shops and branch out further than Lidl’s to ensure that Nick had quality cakes, delving into her German to secure the nicest ones at a patisserie.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_5008.jpg?w=768)
There was no perceptible climbing today and I am glad that we have not slavishly kept to the Danube cycleway. I believe it would have been an even harder challenge without the variety that we enjoy. Interestingly as usual every Austrian cycle path we have ridden always has a kilometre of gravel despite the rest being beautiful smooth tarmac so we wonder if there is some rule to say this. ( There must be as Austria has rules for everything!)
Nick demanded a one pot curry with Monica’s beetroot & apple salad as his treat tonight so that’s what he got, before his super cakes. It is due to remain very hot tomorrow so it’s an early start again, with most of the day in Slovakia before crossing the Danube into Hungary.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a649d7f4-b684-4549-b7e6-4e4568a61f7c.jpg?w=768)
Day 8
Vienna
56 miles. 421 ft climbed
660 miles completed on the first leg.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4840.jpg?w=768)
When cycling for long distances you do become somewhat obsessed by the quality of the surface you are travelling upon as it directly affects the pain transmitted to your ever more sore backside.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/b5505022-4152-4f36-b9ba-fe2836c7e2b2.jpg?w=1024)
Generally speaking we have been spoilt by the super smooth tarmac or gravel paths in all the countries we have visited. Only occasionally he we had to evade difficult terrain. Well today was a first for all of us as just after leaving Krems and crossing a bridge under construction (but open) we actually cycled across some newly laid cement, having to push extra hard to get out to the other end before we would have become statues embedded on the bridge. The workmen seemed none too perturbed and straightaway started to tidy up our tracks!!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4847.jpg?w=1024)
Today was always planned as a short day to get the final 55 miles to Vienna then meet up with our wives who had flown over the day before. Once again we ran alongside the Danube and luckily the headwind abated for the first 30 minutes before coming back on song for the rest of the day.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4849.jpg?w=768)
We crossed over the Danube on a few occasions using the huge hydro/ locks as crossing points watching a barge through on one occasion
Cycling along the levees was tough with the only respite being either these crossings or a short section of woodland as another tributary joined the Danube meaning a diversion in the otherwise consistent pedalling.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4843.jpg?w=768)
Whilst we haven’t seen as much wildlife as we thought we may as usual first thing we did spot some large slugs who seem destined to be caught out by the sun before they are able to make it across the path. Nick continues to frighten the grasshoppers who ping into the undergrowth as he powers past. Chris has no such luck and has so far squashed a slow worm and a lizard, although a grass snake did evade his concrete tyres this morning as it slithered away into the bushes!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4851.jpg?w=768)
We had a brief coffee stop with only 25 miles to go and arranged to meet up with Nigel, Monica and the ladies in Vienna so all was set. Nigel performed a quick clean up of the bikes to remove any traces of the early morning’s concrete encounter before we left.
Coming into Vienna was a breeze with the specific cycle lanes guiding us passed complex road junctions and into the city centre without an issue.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/2728f95d-f184-4e4c-a9b5-efb30eff5708.jpg?w=768)
We even managed to work our way through the Hofburg Palace and Spanish Riding school.
Sopping briefly to meet up Nick’s wife Carolyn who was on her way to a music museum as befits a piano teacher we carried on until we arrived at Schonbrunn, a palace fit for the end of leg one.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/aa9c0174-84e7-4f29-8569-4f38636e229c.jpg?w=1024)
Not being allowed even to walk our bikes passed these gates we then went to meet Nigel & Monica who had by this time been joined by our wives, Caroline & Karen, our Austrian friends Moni and ( my Austrian daughter) Tini.
Leg one completed successfully over 1000kms on mainly dedicated cycle paths, not a drop of rain Incredible. We have s lot to Learn in the U.K.
We now have two days r’n ‘r before the next stage of the trip into the old iron curtain. We are not expecting the same level of sophistication or quality of campsite!
The next update will be published o. Monday until then BBFN.
Day Seven
Krems, Austria
87 miles 1490 feet climbed
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4752.jpg?w=1024)
Today was a very sobering and exhausting day both from a physical and mental viewpoint. Early on we took a little detour from the Danube cycle path to visit the Mauthausen Concentration Camp Memorial Centre which was an incredibly moving and saddening experience. More of which later.
In addition the constant headwind which we have had to deal with since the start of the Inn valley picked up even more strongly today so we had a block headwind all day. So much worse than a hill as there is no benefit for the extra effort.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4765.jpg?w=768)
We left a little later than usual so that we could arrive at Mauthausen just as it opened, having ridden about ten Miles with a nasty little hill at the end. This was a very good decision as it allowed us each to wander round the site on our own and reflect on how awful man can be to man for no real reason.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4762.jpg?w=1024)
The site was very well presented and free to enter, respectful and not touristy ( although I’m sure it can be)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4769.jpg?w=1024)
Some areas were particularly evocative, it should be on all school agendas to make children understand this horror and know that around 50% of the 190,000 inmates who were sent here between 1938 & 1945 died. Just so awful.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/fa231024-f588-4542-ba53-1210101cc485.jpg?w=1024)
We left the visit quietly and contemplating what we had just seen. The road to the site had just been resurfaced and was the neatest smoothest road you will ever see. I was able to congratulate the workman ( in the background of the photo above) who were tidying the edges on their excellent workmanship.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4771.jpg?w=768)
Having had a quick coffee we knew we still had over 75 miles to cover and time was pressing on. We decided to change the programme a little to stop for lunch then have a tea stop later.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/57cfd66a-989a-4187-98a3-f01091fd4034.jpg?w=746)
This stage was run mostly on the raised banks of the Danube and was particularly exposed to the draining headwind. Most of the levee was tarmac but one section was rough stone slabs so we had to resort to grass running for a while slowing us down further.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4777.jpg?w=768)
Allied to this , being stuck on the levee, meant there was little to see as the river was wide and featureless. A short section away from the river brought some relief and a bit of fun when we came across these pumpkins and squashes being sold
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/9a6c0ce5-5bc0-48d7-8c6e-42e0d5460b73.jpg?w=1024)
A full French stick lunch was followed by a slight change in the scenery as the Danube forced its way between hills on either side, but the wind was still slowing our progress.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4789.jpg?w=1024)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4790.jpg?w=1024)
Tea and doughnuts were taken with still 30 miles to go and we did not leave there until around four. After a short but very steep climb to get up and over a bridge we swapped to the other side of the river.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4802.jpg?w=768)
This was a good call as the cycle path no longer hugged the river itself but ventured into and out of the numerous small vineyard villages along the banks.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4811.jpg?w=768)
It was now that Nick said he had a phone meeting to attend to at 6pm otherwise he would be unable to put in his consultancy attendance invoice for $$$$$. As Chris and I had been holding Nick up we suggested he push on to get to the campsite. Although doing well he sadly ended up just over a mile short so we came across Nick in full conference call mode in the middle of a small village!!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4822.jpg?w=768)
Chris and I therefore throttled back and enjoyed the most scenic part of today’s route as much as our tired limbs would allow.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/22eebb7d-f927-461f-9007-836d27f9e7bd.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/bd40b215-0ea8-4627-87ba-191f9771423e.jpg?w=1024)
Durnstein was full of tourists probably having got off the Viking cruises boat docked nearby. We did not hang around, although understand Richard the Lionheart was supposed to have stopped here a few years ago.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/8be57467-8046-4db8-9783-f60711f4e647.jpg?w=1024)
Chris and I finally arrived at the campsite in Krems at 6.30 ready for our cold beer. Nick followed a few minutes later having successfully blagged his online attendance.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4829.jpg?w=768)
Once again Monica & Nigel rustled up an eagerly devoured dinner of chicken thighs potatoes and Monica’s infamous salad.
An exhausting and thought provoking day had come to an end Why can man be so evil and not learn the lessons of the past.
Day six
Linz, Austria
95 miles 2133ft climbed
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/987fa24c-f265-437b-a57f-d1fc954da491.jpg?w=768)
Today we moved from the Tyrol to the Danube basin and the landscape changed significantly over the journey. However the one thing that we enjoyed and took advantage of during every stage was a lake. Very different lakes but ones that made the ride special. The other thing to note is that today we hit 500 miles completed after six days riding.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4689.jpg?w=768)
Leaving the campsite in Salzburg the initial destination was the area known as the Salzkammergut ( the Austrian equivalent of our Lake District) as ever we started immediately on cycle paths which wound their way up out of Salzburg, climbing gradually for 9 miles. As we left early we had to take care as coming the other way at high speed were numerous locals on their way into town to start work.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4691.jpg?w=768)
After out climb we entered a pretty Green valley where there was little activity apart from the farmers cutting their grass.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4694.jpg?w=768)
Moving on from the valley we approached Mondsee but first saw a bunch of climbers at St Loritz preparing to go up.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/38382e2f-dd16-4cf5-afa6-990c67e8c492.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/12350fca-92a6-4e32-b6bb-9a980b11daa9.jpg?w=1024)
Mondsee was very pretty and we ran round part before disappearing into a long cyclist only tunnel – cars had a separate one.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4700.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4697.jpg?w=1024)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/83e65443-5a82-4dc5-a069-7d2cb8a233c8.jpg?w=768)
As we moved on from Mondsee we came to the larger Attersee where we had hoped to rendezvous with the camper. However Nigel got moved on or was asked to pay so we ended up having to cycle the 15 mile length of this lake before we were allowed to have our coffee and pastry stop. It even included a few sharpish hills so a Karen flapjack stop was added to the programme.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/8cd18686-5d06-4404-b781-960f91196595.jpg?w=1024)
We also enjoyed watching the grass collecting device as below!!
After leaving Attersee we left the mountains and lake and started to transition towards the Danube basin. The landscape changed and we picked up the river Ager which then merged with the Traun.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4720.jpg?w=768)
Whilst the majority of this stage was on cycle paths they were unusually nearly all gravel. It may have been something to do with the fact we went round over and beside several gravel lakes not unlike our Barden Lake back in Kent. We did see one large terrapin and many fish in several.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/a3bd0a00-d719-457a-b3ed-54f7dc9a69fb.jpg?w=1024)
The gravel was mostly great except for a couple of stretches where it had been laid too thickly and challenged grip and stability. The many other as usual electric bike users grinned at our instability.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4728.jpg?w=768)
Nigel was pleased with his lunch stop which was just off the cycle path but the bunting of our drying washing was plain for us to see !
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/94255dc5-f868-48d1-b04b-dfb2c825ddff.jpg?w=1024)
Lunch was merely frankfurters and scrambled egg and by now we kept out of the sun. The good thing about the extra long first leg meant that we only had 26 miles left as leg three to the next campsite.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/4f6979ca-3800-4efe-afe4-eb750bebd306.jpg?w=768)
This leg was almost entirely along the river on tarmac paths and Nick powered us along for several kilometres luckily mostly shaded from the sun.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/b905d8ce-b7a4-4452-a3ab-8d9c4aa2f730.jpg?w=1024)
Nearly there I actually had programmed in the wrong campsite so a quick lap of the wrong site before moving on to the site I’d booked which is far superior, as it boasts a swimming lake with water skiing the lot.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4735.jpg?w=1024)
After the efforts of the day the three N’s , Nick, Nigel & Neil had a very refreshing swim before our very welcome beef stew
The cards have been as keenly contested as usual but this year Nick’s beginners luck appears to have vanished. Undefeated last year, Chris changed the game and he has lost every night so far!
Nick has just cried “it’s almost nine o’clock, time for bed. “ As Everyone is exhausted after another great day, the cards stop and we all disappear off to bed to recharge the batteries for the next day.
Day Five
Salzburg, Austria
86 miles 3120 ft climbed
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4648.jpg?w=768)
Today was one of those great days cycling that we will remember for a long time. The weather was excellent and the scenery was truly picture perfect. Some of the views could not have been more typically Austrian if they tried. The key to this beauty was the colour green, the verdant mountainside pastures resplendent as bright as emeralds shining beneath the blue sky. Fabulous. The pictures don’t really do it justice.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4649.jpg?w=1024)
Having decided to leave early, as soon as we had finished our compulsory porage, the first twenty-five miles continued our assault on the Inn valley.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/3fd55376-41c3-424d-a50f-19627ab47824.jpg?w=1024)
It was quite a chilly start if we were not in the sun , and after a downhill start managed to warm up quickly as we sped along without a headwind making some good progress in the first hour and a quarter covering 20 odd miles.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4585.jpg?w=1024)
What was noticeable as we rode down the ever maturing valley was it’s width and how the waters of the Inn calmed although it still ran quickly. We continued to share the valley with farms, the autoroute and the railway as the river got bigger.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4587.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4595.jpg?w=768)
Having crossed the Inn for the final time at Kufstein we shortly left the Inn valley for the first time in around 100 miles.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4600.jpg?w=768)
We then started a gradual climb up out of the valley alongside another river and this is where we started to see the Austria that we all think of with green grass and house balconies full of flowers with the mountains in the background.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4602.jpg?w=768)
Having decided to meet with Nigel & Monica by Walchsee the view and site did not disappoint. Few coffee stops will be as scenic. Even here Nigel took the locals to task for trying to charge him to park and he agreed not to pay!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4620.jpg?w=1024)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4610.jpg?w=1024)
We did see a bit more wildlife including some cranes in the fields and some autumn crocus too. Running along in the stunning scenery made cycling easier even if there were some more hills to climb.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4628.jpg?w=768)
As ever most of the riding was on dedicated tarmac cycle paths until we approached the German border when we had a couple of miles on a main road before crossing the border and turning off into the woods and we then had a few kilometres on rough gravel tracks including an additional hill added for Nick.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4631.jpg?w=768)
Whizzing down the first of several hills Nigel had set up our lunch stop at what he thought was a disused railway station only to find there were two trains an hour in each direction!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4642.jpg?w=1024)
We remained in Germany until almost the end of the day as the border is on the outskirts of Salzburg. This means we will now stay in Austria until next Monday after our weekend break in Vienna. We will have completed by then the East to West crossing of the country.
Coming down from the high hills we had several great sweeping but not too steep descents and a couple of short climbs which again were great fun.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4634.jpg?w=1024)
Crossing our final river of the day brought us into the outskirts of Salzburg and back into Austria where we had a short five miles on to the campsite.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4666.jpg?w=768)
This evening pork schnitzel, coleslaw & potatoes was followed by stewed plums with ice cream. Who needs a restaurant. Monica had even found the requisite German Beer.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4667.jpg?w=768)
So five days down and two and a half more to Vienna. The sun has promised to shine some more.
Day Four
Kramsach, Austria
85 miles 1200 ft
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4552.jpg?w=768)
Chris coined this phrase as we were cycling along the Inn Valley as the flat fertile plain was full of various fruit and vegetables. We saw apples, vines, raspberries, blackcurrants, potatoes being harvested, and leeks too which filled the air with their distinctive odour. A field of celeriac also added a different smell too. This was all in addition to the usual maize and grass fodder fields as we cycled along.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4512.jpg?w=768)
Today was all about following the river Inn. Although in theory it was an easy flat day gradually going downhill we unfortunately had a steady headwind which strengthened as the day progressed. Although Nick continued to ride with verve, it is fair to say Chris & I were glad to finish at the end of the day.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4515.jpg?w=768)
Once again most of the route was on dedicated cycle paths, the vast majority being tarmac, but just to keep us on our toes every now and again we had a kilometre of gravel.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4519.jpg?w=768)
One of the notable features of the day was the growth in the size of the river valley which started out quite narrow in Landeck and grew as we progressed. The river was always running fast and as we found later we were lucky not to be here when the river was in Full flood.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4548.jpg?w=1024)
One thing that we remarked upon as we cycled through was the lack of wildlife, particularly birds. We saw a few kites and crows but little else so presumed the farmers shot everything else.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4546.jpg?w=768)
However in addition to the odd lizard and a mouse that scuttled across the track we did see these Chamois grazing contentedly in a field.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/9b6a31c7-ce0d-461e-bbb5-11a38fa87c3f.jpg?w=700)
What is noticeable is the compliant and trusting nature of the average Austrian. Whilst this may lead to some frustration with the obeying of the rules it does also mean that they don’t need to fence off railways and facilities are left in superb condition.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4526.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/15b5dd99-c1b4-4447-a132-8875fa75058d.jpg?w=768)
The first leg to coffee was the most varied and although we were sharing the river valley with the railway and a motorway we were often in trees and fields away from the noise.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4536.jpg?w=768)
At one point we did actually climb up well above the river to look down at a couple of bends.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4539.jpg?w=1024)
I’m not sure how many times we crossed the river but it must have been well over ten often on dedicated cycle bridges, some wooden and others suspended.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4558.jpg?w=768)
The other interesting thing we saw a few times was a counter which advised the number of cyclists using the path. On the first one we crossed we were 28-30, the last was a few hundred and the annual figure was in the hundreds of thousands.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/64f4488e-7bcf-486f-acba-261349b3ac78.jpg?w=1024)
Having started at a tardy 8.05 coffee was very welcome where Nigel had managed to negotiate with a sports club to park up the camper to dry the tents and set out the pastries!
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4544-1.jpg?w=768)
The next leg was split into two. The first section to Innsbruck was the least enjoyable of the day as we ran right next to the motorway. We even noticed a cyclist stopped to go into the motorway services. With the headwind and to noise of the traffic it was good to finally get into the outskirts of Innsbruck.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/cbb542a7-58bd-4b8d-bab8-f6256b605c53.jpg?w=1024)
After a quick detour and walk into the very touristy centre of Innsbruck we then cracked on to meet the camper although had a repair stop because Nick was concerned his saddle had moved.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/792fdc72-326d-49a3-a243-e7fb19dd4a2e.jpg?w=768)
For our lunch stop Nigel had set up in the enormous Swarovski Crystal carpark. The good thing was that we now only had 24 miles left to go for the day.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/4186cda1-94eb-46e8-a773-3f80ac4806d8.jpg?w=1024)
We continued along cycleways but the most noticeable thing was the aftermath of the flooding that occurred only a week ago with some crops destroyed but also thousands of sandbags and mud having been snowploughed out the way.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4550.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4575.jpg?w=768)
Our campsite today was up the biggest hill of the day – only 250 ft- but we finished at 4.30 where Monica had managed to meet the next part of the challenge with the most popular Austrian beer. She is hopeful that as we pass into Germany briefly tomorrow she can catch back up on her quest.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4576.jpg?w=768)
Salmon and cucumber salad were on the menu this evening and there was even time for a round of cards.
With the weather due to get warmer tomorrow and some climbing earlier on we will be getting away early again to try to beat the heat.
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/img_4549.jpg?w=768)
![](https://nbjtours.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/42b93477-7263-47f7-98ad-1a77a1e314ec.jpg?w=768)